Looking for a good build.
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Ok, So I'm pulling the motor out of my old 97 Z. Motor is 100% stock with 138k miles. Wanting to build a N/A motor and get good numbers. Looking for a good set up. This will be a street/strip car more street than strip. Trying to get as close to 500rwhp as possible.
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plan on about 8K to 10K just in the engine bay if you start with nothing.
Although many have made 500 HP on a stock bottom end it is not the most reliable way to go. You'll probably want to keep your compression around 11:1 since most of your driving is on the street and don't be tempted to over cam the engine. An engine that runs great at 6500 RPM is great but your only in that RPM range less than 1% of the time. Why suffer drivability the other 99% for mainly bragging rights.
The biggest question is how much is your budget going to be. Give us a dollar amount and someone here will tell you the best way to go. It is a forum so be prepared for some to tell you to double it. Some will say you're stupid to even try but once you sort through all the B.S. the answer will appear.
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Are we talking 500 at the wheels or at the fly? If it is at the fly then an LE2 setup is said to make 410-420 at the wheels so wouldn't that translate to 500 or more at the fly? Plus u would need all the supporting mods as well. I would certainly give LE a look as well as AI, both top notch performers!!!!
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i have a lt1. lt4 engine mine na put down 580 on the crank with 11.2:1 compression. with 210 afr heads. 383 stroker 4 bolt main and 58mm throttle body ported and polished and a tpis custom cam and 42 lb injectors. it takes alot of money. i had about 18k into the na engine. now ? with twin turbos. 24x conversion 120lb injectors.$27k ball park.
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Well he said 500 RWHP and street driving so it would have to be a stroker with one hell of a good top end and a tune to match. It's not to say it can't be done on a stock stroke but he wants to use the car mostly on the street. 8k to 10k is just the start of that kind of power. The entire drive line would have to be gone through if it's an auto and still would need rear end upgrade if M6 to a 9inch or 12bolt, clutch, driveshaft, most likely some suspension mods, fuel pump and some tires to hold the power. In the end OP there are several ways to get there but it is never cheap. A good forged 383 bottom end built to last will run you in the 3k to 5k range. Prices are across the board for this depending on where you live. Good top end set up with cam, injectors and intake worked is gona run 4k to 6k again depending on who builds it. You still need all the bolt on stuff like long tubes, big TB, CAI, ect. By the time you buy all the parts that you need to replace on a 130k mile engine and build what you want I see 8 to 10k easy. You may be able find some deals on used parts to keep cost down but I have never had the luck some do in actually being first in line for those deals.