LT1-LT4 Modifications 1993-97 Gen II Small Block V8

Diagnostic head-scratcher

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Old Nov 22, 2011 | 06:29 PM
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Default Diagnostic head-scratcher

Ok fellas, I need your help. I'd like to think I'm pretty savvy when it comes to diagnosing automotive troubles, but this one has me stumped.
I've got a 95 Camaro LT1, essentially stock. My issue is that it runs just great; fires up no problem, no misfires, and pulls really strong. However, after driving the car for 15 minutes, it cuts off! It will do this methodically within a minute or two either way. Once it dies, I have to let it sit for 20 minutes or so before it will start. Once I wait, I'm good to go again without any drivability issues. I haven't really pressed the issue to see how far I can go after the first time it dies.
I'm hoping that posting this will find someone that had the same or similar issue and can guide me down the right path. If you need to know any more particulars to help me solve this, please ask. HELP!
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Old Nov 22, 2011 | 06:43 PM
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try and pull some codes.


possible ICM heatsoak, but if it starts up and runs again no problem it could be a stored code for the ECT, on the waterpump... try and disconnect that and drive around, should force the car into limp mode.
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Old Nov 22, 2011 | 07:24 PM
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Do two basic things when it won't run:
Check for spark.
Check fuel pressure with a gauge.
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Old Nov 23, 2011 | 05:56 AM
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Yeah, I've been lazy on the fuel gauge. I should just bite the bullet and buy one. As far as spark, well, pulling a plug wire off is free. I'll try that first.
lt1slowz28, I was thinking along your lines, since it seems like the car needs to 'cool off' and then it fires no problem. Kinda like the weak window motor everyone has seen. But since I work for an auto parts company, and the parts themselves are cheap, I went ahead an threw a coil and module on there. That's not to say they aren't bad, so I'll check there too. I have a scan tool that can see stored codes and none were present. In fact, I've never seen the light come on since I've owned the car. As far as the temp sensor, I didn't know that would keep the car from running! But what it sounds like you're telling me is if it won't run, I may be able to unplug its connector and force it into limp mode? Hmmmm.
These leads you guys have given me are great and I really do appreciate it. I'm off to work in a few minutes, so if you or anyone else have more possible solutions, fire away. I'll try these out as soon as I'm back home.
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Old Nov 23, 2011 | 07:31 AM
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Mine did the same thing when the opti sparks rotor was loose from a backed out rotor screw... But before digging that deep do verify it has fuel pressure and strong blue spark when it happens again. Can also be a heat soaked ICM as stated already . Here's a tip to keep it cool! http://shbox.com/1/4th_gen_tech2.html#ICM_cooling

And here's some spark help
http://shbox.com/1/4th_gen_tech2.html#opti_test
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Old Nov 23, 2011 | 11:43 AM
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I would go with the ICM. I had an aftermarket one that broke within a week so pay the extra $ to get an AC Delco module
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Old Nov 23, 2011 | 12:10 PM
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It might be..... It could be..... Unless you have access to free parts you had better follow Mr. Shbox's advice. Fuel and spark check first, then proceed. Of course you could always jack up the radiator cap and put a brand new Camaro under it. Wait, it's a different cap Makes it easier yet.

Al 95 Z28
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Old Nov 23, 2011 | 12:50 PM
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Another free test would be to see if there is vacuum in the fuel tank when it shuts down.
A few folks have had the evap purge system fail to let fresh air in and the tank can vaporlock.
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might try ignition coil also. they can fail to operate once they get some heat in them. maybe once it cuts off check for spark at the coil.
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