where to buy motor
Last edited by quik95lt1; Nov 29, 2011 at 10:48 AM.
again you needed to answer my original question which is what are your goal and intentions for this engine? cam heads? stock? nitrous? what are your plans........you cant buy a shortblock and not know what your going to do with it......for instance i sent you a nice safe build that will handle 500hp with ease as well as some mild nitrous....i dont want to go saying whether a competitors engine is good or not....i wouldn't appreciate soembody doing that to me so i wont.......but what i can say is just compare some of the components......do some reasearch and dont jump the gun........do it once and do it right!!!
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any reason you want a 383.. other than "it's big"? or you heard good things about them?
you could easily do a 355 for a LOT cheaper and have some pretty decent numbers. and then still go 383 later on when you need to. also with a 350/355 build you can have a built bottom end that you won't have to worry about. While keeping your top end for the time being and tear it down later when you come up with a better idea of what you want to do with the car, then go crazy and not have to worry about anything.
just my .02
you could easily do a 355 for a LOT cheaper and have some pretty decent numbers. and then still go 383 later on when you need to. also with a 350/355 build you can have a built bottom end that you won't have to worry about. While keeping your top end for the time being and tear it down later when you come up with a better idea of what you want to do with the car, then go crazy and not have to worry about anything.
just my .02
yup i reccomended a 355........to properly do the 383 supporting heads and cam are a must or you are going to end up with a stump pulling farm truck motor and thats all you'll have.....ive seen it before locally......nice 115mph 396 lol
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yea, start from the ground up on the build, but in turn remember that a well matched combo is far better than the biggest stuff you can fit in between the fenders.
think of what you want from the motor, and come up with a solid build plan... if not talk to someone who knows. you can never over spend on a bottom end, and cam/heads should compliment what the bottom end can handle CFM/RPM wise... it all ties into each other... more than one way to skin a cat... just got to get to work.
think of what you want from the motor, and come up with a solid build plan... if not talk to someone who knows. you can never over spend on a bottom end, and cam/heads should compliment what the bottom end can handle CFM/RPM wise... it all ties into each other... more than one way to skin a cat... just got to get to work.
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well, hott damm... that motor would be about as useful as a velvet painting of a whale and a dolphin ******!
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Every time I see his name I have to laugh. That build was such a waste...how embarrassing.
funny you know exactly who i was talking about lol.......or i think u do haha..........i raced him in NH up here......put 6mph on his *** with my stock bottom end H/C motor when i had it lol....he wasn't happy lol
As others mentioned, the top end is more important when it comes to making HP...a built 383 bottom end is more to support the power the top end is making without blowing up...not necessarily making a lot more HP... probably only 20-30 HP over a comparable 355. What heads and cam are in mind for this build? HP goals? Torque goals? How much $$$ you got to blow? Answers to those questions will determine which is the best option for you.
FWIW...look on the classifieds here....I scored a forged 383 shortblock a lot less than you would think.
FWIW...look on the classifieds here....I scored a forged 383 shortblock a lot less than you would think.
Oh yea, check craigslist too...you might find a low mileage gem like this for cheap and talk them down: http://charlotte.craigslist.org/pts/2720632836.html
Just put a heads/cam package on something like that and be done with it if your on a budget....otherwise it can get expensive quickly.
Just put a heads/cam package on something like that and be done with it if your on a budget....otherwise it can get expensive quickly.
Read the thread and thought of this on the local boards since you're in NJ in case you want something mostly together. Otherwise look on CL.
http://www.njfboa.org/forums/showthread.php?t=58003
http://www.njfboa.org/forums/showthread.php?t=58003
lt1 4 bolt main block, came out of a 92 vette. just had it hot water boiled, honed, new bearings, new freeze out plugs about 2,000 miles ago. will include crank and i have 7 of the 8 pistons rods and rings. 400 o.b.o
I also have all the other items to build an lt1 motor minus one piston and rod, that includes trickflow 21* heads, cc 306 cam, comp cams 1.55 rr, comp cams hardened pushrods, ls7 lifters, lt1 intake with ford racing 30 lb injectors, factory TB, factory gutted waterpump(perfect for electrical unit) stock oil pan, moroso valve covers, stock flywheel, timing cover, optispark(gm with around 2,000) aftermarket wires, boch platinum 3 spark plugs. clloyes double roller timing chain. accesory bracket with all accesories. all of these parts have around 2,000 miles on them. this is a complete motor minus pistons and rods but is not assembled. comes with engine harness and pcm computer.
asking 2,600 o.b.o
I also have all the other items to build an lt1 motor minus one piston and rod, that includes trickflow 21* heads, cc 306 cam, comp cams 1.55 rr, comp cams hardened pushrods, ls7 lifters, lt1 intake with ford racing 30 lb injectors, factory TB, factory gutted waterpump(perfect for electrical unit) stock oil pan, moroso valve covers, stock flywheel, timing cover, optispark(gm with around 2,000) aftermarket wires, boch platinum 3 spark plugs. clloyes double roller timing chain. accesory bracket with all accesories. all of these parts have around 2,000 miles on them. this is a complete motor minus pistons and rods but is not assembled. comes with engine harness and pcm computer.
asking 2,600 o.b.o
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On The Tree
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From: NJ
original plans for car was 500hp DD until i can get another car for dd. planned on a 383 stroker. 3.73 gears. bigger stall. cam.heads. LT header true duals. possibly procharger 8psi. gutted.
the motor i have now was "suppose to be rebuilt lt4". i had the car mayb a year n now the main bearing went. theres a guy up here who use to work w us at the shop who now owns his own. he said he can rebuild+labor for $1950.00 but im just skeptical cz if the motor was rebuilt alrdy why did it go so quick. i had a few highway rolls but nuttin 2 crazy. idk if the block itself is cracked or wat. im basically willing to spend wat it takes. i have bout 2g cash n a credit card but i dnt wanna spend anything too crazy. i bought the car for bout 2.5k
the motor i have now was "suppose to be rebuilt lt4". i had the car mayb a year n now the main bearing went. theres a guy up here who use to work w us at the shop who now owns his own. he said he can rebuild+labor for $1950.00 but im just skeptical cz if the motor was rebuilt alrdy why did it go so quick. i had a few highway rolls but nuttin 2 crazy. idk if the block itself is cracked or wat. im basically willing to spend wat it takes. i have bout 2g cash n a credit card but i dnt wanna spend anything too crazy. i bought the car for bout 2.5k
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 109
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From: NJ
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blueprint engines... never had a good experience with them... 98gtp... please, slow down make a couple of bookmarks on your browser and sleep on an idea or two. Don't just shot gun a bunch of ideas around at once, come up with what you want, well defined... have you ever driven a 400hp car? let alone 500? do you have the means to keep up on maintaining the car, or better yet can the rest of the car i.e. suspension, rear end and tans support anything north of stock HP?
think it through and start from the suspension and work your way from the back forward on the build, yes it will be slower... but it is fool proof and won't leave you stranded with a burnt trans or a destroyed 10 bolt.
think it through and start from the suspension and work your way from the back forward on the build, yes it will be slower... but it is fool proof and won't leave you stranded with a burnt trans or a destroyed 10 bolt.
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 109
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From: NJ
i know but i thought starting with suspension was a givin. all the mods was after everything else. i wanted 500 to flywheel. yes i have i drove my buddys 425+hp stang. the thing is ive been w.o a car for bout 2-3wks alrdy n getting impatient. i know i have a way to go n alot 2 learn. i just want to know whats the best way of going about this. either jus getting a replacement shortblock or a 355 or w.e