Got my fuel pressure reading...
Thread Starter
TECH Apprentice
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 305
Likes: 0
From: Goldsboro NC
Got my fuel pressure reading... ..for those who didn't recheck the previous thread. It was staying around 40 psi and when I tried to start it it didn't change. The car will start and instantly cut off, after a few tries it will idle very low to the point that its barely running, it won't go above 3000 rpms, it runs very rough up to that point.
I've pretty much given up at this point, I know it could probably be a bunch of things, what does it sound like to you?
I've pretty much given up at this point, I know it could probably be a bunch of things, what does it sound like to you?
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Go to shobox web site and do the options wiring test to make sure all is well. It might point you toward the coil pack or options who knows without diagnosis. You need a Dvom to the test it all.
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All of the things mentioned can cause some messed up stuff. A bad Temp sensor in the waterpump can also cause hard starts and misfires. Check the reading of the temp sensor with a scantool when its cold to make sure its the same as the actual outside temp. If its not even close then time for a new one.
Thread Starter
TECH Apprentice
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 305
Likes: 0
From: Goldsboro NC
I wish I had a scantool but I'm guessing those are expensive. Maybe I'll just replace it anyways if this wiring check doesn't work. It seems like it could be just about anything on the car causing this.
Do you have any suggestions on a scantool?
Do you have any suggestions on a scantool?
TECH Regular
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 441
Likes: 0
From: Deep in the heart of Texas
shotguning parts will kill your pocket book and your morale. I can tell by your posts your about done. Limp it down to nearest Vo-tech school and ask them to scan it for you. Chances are they will be more than happy to help.
Again all these suggestion are just a guess.
He needs a meter and a diagram so he can test it all. Content get me wrong a good visual test is a good start but a meter will yell you exactly if you DO or DO NOT have an issue with wiring and point you in a good direction.
For instance car was running great no problems. Im decided to wire tuck the engine bay. Go to start it and would kinda start sometimes at a rear low idle 300 or so.
Other times would start right up and could tell it was not 100% and once warmed up would not rev and if stalled would not restart. I would think that since I just tucked the wires it must be wiring right?
Wrong instead of jumping the gun and tearing everything apart I got out my meter and starter probing. In less the 1hr had it figured out to a shorted coil pack. What most don't understand when reading a forum like this is, you can not read a thread or guess what the issue is without testing and diag. Way cheaper then buying parts and not ridding the issue the first time.
He needs a meter and a diagram so he can test it all. Content get me wrong a good visual test is a good start but a meter will yell you exactly if you DO or DO NOT have an issue with wiring and point you in a good direction.
For instance car was running great no problems. Im decided to wire tuck the engine bay. Go to start it and would kinda start sometimes at a rear low idle 300 or so.
Other times would start right up and could tell it was not 100% and once warmed up would not rev and if stalled would not restart. I would think that since I just tucked the wires it must be wiring right?
Wrong instead of jumping the gun and tearing everything apart I got out my meter and starter probing. In less the 1hr had it figured out to a shorted coil pack. What most don't understand when reading a forum like this is, you can not read a thread or guess what the issue is without testing and diag. Way cheaper then buying parts and not ridding the issue the first time.
TECH Regular
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 441
Likes: 0
From: Deep in the heart of Texas
Again all these suggestion are just a guess.
He needs a meter and a diagram so he can test it all. Content get me wrong a good visual test is a good start but a meter will yell you exactly if you DO or DO NOT have an issue with wiring and point you in a good direction.
For instance car was running great no problems. Im decided to wire tuck the engine bay. Go to start it and would kinda start sometimes at a rear low idle 300 or so.
Other times would start right up and could tell it was not 100% and once warmed up would not rev and if stalled would not restart. I would think that since I just tucked the wires it must be wiring right?
Wrong instead of jumping the gun and tearing everything apart I got out my meter and starter probing. In less the 1hr had it figured out to a shorted coil pack. What most don't understand when reading a forum like this is, you can not read a thread or guess what the issue is without testing and diag. Way cheaper then buying parts and not ridding the issue the first time.
He needs a meter and a diagram so he can test it all. Content get me wrong a good visual test is a good start but a meter will yell you exactly if you DO or DO NOT have an issue with wiring and point you in a good direction.
For instance car was running great no problems. Im decided to wire tuck the engine bay. Go to start it and would kinda start sometimes at a rear low idle 300 or so.
Other times would start right up and could tell it was not 100% and once warmed up would not rev and if stalled would not restart. I would think that since I just tucked the wires it must be wiring right?
Wrong instead of jumping the gun and tearing everything apart I got out my meter and starter probing. In less the 1hr had it figured out to a shorted coil pack. What most don't understand when reading a forum like this is, you can not read a thread or guess what the issue is without testing and diag. Way cheaper then buying parts and not ridding the issue the first time.
Thread Starter
TECH Apprentice
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 305
Likes: 0
From: Goldsboro NC
Again all these suggestion are just a guess.
He needs a meter and a diagram so he can test it all. Content get me wrong a good visual test is a good start but a meter will yell you exactly if you DO or DO NOT have an issue with wiring and point you in a good direction.
For instance car was running great no problems. Im decided to wire tuck the engine bay. Go to start it and would kinda start sometimes at a rear low idle 300 or so.
Other times would start right up and could tell it was not 100% and once warmed up would not rev and if stalled would not restart. I would think that since I just tucked the wires it must be wiring right?
Wrong instead of jumping the gun and tearing everything apart I got out my meter and starter probing. In less the 1hr had it figured out to a shorted coil pack. What most don't understand when reading a forum like this is, you can not read a thread or guess what the issue is without testing and diag. Way cheaper then buying parts and not ridding the issue the first time.
He needs a meter and a diagram so he can test it all. Content get me wrong a good visual test is a good start but a meter will yell you exactly if you DO or DO NOT have an issue with wiring and point you in a good direction.
For instance car was running great no problems. Im decided to wire tuck the engine bay. Go to start it and would kinda start sometimes at a rear low idle 300 or so.
Other times would start right up and could tell it was not 100% and once warmed up would not rev and if stalled would not restart. I would think that since I just tucked the wires it must be wiring right?
Wrong instead of jumping the gun and tearing everything apart I got out my meter and starter probing. In less the 1hr had it figured out to a shorted coil pack. What most don't understand when reading a forum like this is, you can not read a thread or guess what the issue is without testing and diag. Way cheaper then buying parts and not ridding the issue the first time.
If you have a link to what I'm supposed to check and how to do it that would be great.
Another question I have is that I have new spark plugs in the car and they are gapped at .55 They are NKG v power copper plugs (I believe the same or similar to the TR55's). Could these somehow have gone bad and be causing my issues? Is the gap wrong? Just a side question I thought I would ask.
