AI 355 ignition upgrades?
12-25-2011, 05:31 PM
#1
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AI 355 ignition upgrades? well since i am not pulling the motor out this winter(a first) i am looking at something to upgrade(if it needs it) i just put a new motor last winter(only has about 400 miles on it since i blew the trans last summer) but my question is how good are the stock wires(7mm) and stock coil? i have done some research and it sounds like guys dont like running the aftermarket coils? i still have my opti(new one from parts lady) and it has about 3k on it works perfect and got shifted at 7k with my old set up.. anyways would i see any gains of putting some bigger/better wires and a msd or some type of other coil? i am going to be hooking up a mallory 685 box up this winter as well.. also i have decently new ac delco wires(so not old stock ones) and the coil is off a 96 ws6 with 50k. also one of my buddies laughed at me that i didnt add a underdrive pulley to my recent motor.. i could have swore i read those dont help a ton? any one know if those really are worth the money, he swore it made a big difference on his lol.. anyways here is the car and a idle clip 
it is a HR AI 355 that i just put a 4l65 in.. but broke the stupid bellhousing off the trans 
haven't even got a chance to really get in it because it broke right after the tuner had it.. any ways the car has a narrowed rear ect just a fun street car. any help is appreciated thanks!
http://youtu.be/vzV8FrYxgLo
it is a HR AI 355 that i just put a 4l65 in.. but broke the stupid bellhousing off the trans haven't even got a chance to really get in it because it broke right after the tuner had it.. any ways the car has a narrowed rear ect just a fun street car. any help is appreciated thanks! http://youtu.be/vzV8FrYxgLo
12-25-2011, 08:14 PM
#3
If it ain't broke don't fix it. If it runs fine and pulls strong all the way to 7k then obviously the wires you have are getting the job done. I ran an Accel coil on my car and it quit after a month. I run a stock coil now with MSD wires. I would recommend those little braided heat shields for cylinder #3, #5, and #6. The header tubes typically get very close to those wires.
You will see gains on a dyno going to an underdrive pulley, but whether or not you can feel it is another thing. I've seen a back-to-back dyno run with a car picking up 4hp, and that was a bolt-on car.
You will see gains on a dyno going to an underdrive pulley, but whether or not you can feel it is another thing. I've seen a back-to-back dyno run with a car picking up 4hp, and that was a bolt-on car.
12-26-2011, 08:26 AM
#5
I wouldn't do the 685 box unless you want it for nitrous features or the spark based rev limit, it wont help NA.
I might consider a different plug wire but not the coil.
Far as the 4L65 the biggest difference is it uses 5 powdered metal pinions instead of 4 FORGED ones and the pinions were never a weak point in the 4L60E the early 700R4 had some troubles with pinion bushings but not the 4L60E. Point being much like your quest for ignition upgrades you went after things that were NOT really upgrades.
I might consider a different plug wire but not the coil.
Far as the 4L65 the biggest difference is it uses 5 powdered metal pinions instead of 4 FORGED ones and the pinions were never a weak point in the 4L60E the early 700R4 had some troubles with pinion bushings but not the 4L60E. Point being much like your quest for ignition upgrades you went after things that were NOT really upgrades.
12-26-2011, 09:08 AM
#6
I have an ancient Crane PS91 coil with 10mm Taylor Thundervolt wires running the show so there goes anyone's theory about aftermarket coils.
As for underdrive pulleys, people still do that? That's so 1999.
As for underdrive pulleys, people still do that? That's so 1999.
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12-26-2011, 09:30 AM
#8
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Stock ignition in the '96 and '97 LT1's is reportedly the strongest GM had ever produced for a factory vehicle (at least at the time). Don't change a thing if it runs good. Some of the most popular ignition problems people encounter is through an aftermarket ignition box.
12-26-2011, 10:31 AM
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Well thanks guys for all the info.. keep it coming as for the Mallory box I got it for my nitrous, not to help with spark and what not.. I know I have always heard for the Opti if its not broke then don't fix it but never for the wires... and the underdrive pulley I see there are a couple of different ones.. the smallest is 34% underdrive which sounds the best.. I see alot of people have charging issues with them but I have just a low mount alt.. no ac, ps ext so I don't think I would have issues with charging.. so u guys don't see any benefit to upgrading just wires? Thanks for all your help everyone! And yeah the video is pretty quiet but. It is just another slow ltwon! Lol
12-26-2011, 10:47 AM
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If your only accessory is the alternator then by all means get rid of the U/D. It is not even close to being necessary. If you daily drive your car then you will kill your battery within six months. Especially an auto.
12-26-2011, 11:57 AM
#12
With a full engine build routinely turning 7000 I might consider an underdrive damper as in a full replacement and some of the aftermarket ones are available with substantial weight savings and tuned for higher rpms and weight at crankshaft rpm is meaningful savings.
The 685 is a very nice box for use with nitrous, the spark based rev limiters and window switches are VERY good to have.
The reason most of us don't recommend an UD pulley is that without a belt driven waterpump the belt is not putting so much load on the engine as it would on a car with a traditional waterpump setup. The guys that spend the money will tell you how great they were BUT many of us just pull the serpentine belt entirely for our best runs at the track and that only gains us .1 so it seems sound reasoning that a 34%UD could not gain you more than .034 if someone says they can feel that I will politely call it placebo effect or wishful thinking.
Most other vehicles have belt driven waterpumps so their potential gain from an UD are greater.
UD can also be useful on a road race car that still has the power steering as it can reduce heat in that system.
The 685 is a very nice box for use with nitrous, the spark based rev limiters and window switches are VERY good to have.
The reason most of us don't recommend an UD pulley is that without a belt driven waterpump the belt is not putting so much load on the engine as it would on a car with a traditional waterpump setup. The guys that spend the money will tell you how great they were BUT many of us just pull the serpentine belt entirely for our best runs at the track and that only gains us .1 so it seems sound reasoning that a 34%UD could not gain you more than .034 if someone says they can feel that I will politely call it placebo effect or wishful thinking.
Most other vehicles have belt driven waterpumps so their potential gain from an UD are greater.
UD can also be useful on a road race car that still has the power steering as it can reduce heat in that system.
12-26-2011, 12:13 PM
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With a full engine build routinely turning 7000 I might consider an underdrive damper as in a full replacement and some of the aftermarket ones are available with substantial weight savings and tuned for higher rpms and weight at crankshaft rpm is meaningful savings.
The 685 is a very nice box for use with nitrous, the spark based rev limiters and window switches are VERY good to have.
The reason most of us don't recommend an UD pulley is that without a belt driven waterpump the belt is not putting so much load on the engine as it would on a car with a traditional waterpump setup. The guys that spend the money will tell you how great they were BUT many of us just pull the serpentine belt entirely for our best runs at the track and that only gains us .1 so it seems sound reasoning that a 34%UD could not gain you more than .034 if someone says they can feel that I will politely call it placebo effect or wishful thinking.
Most other vehicles have belt driven waterpumps so their potential gain from an UD are greater.
UD can also be useful on a road race car that still has the power steering as it can reduce heat in that system.
The 685 is a very nice box for use with nitrous, the spark based rev limiters and window switches are VERY good to have.
The reason most of us don't recommend an UD pulley is that without a belt driven waterpump the belt is not putting so much load on the engine as it would on a car with a traditional waterpump setup. The guys that spend the money will tell you how great they were BUT many of us just pull the serpentine belt entirely for our best runs at the track and that only gains us .1 so it seems sound reasoning that a 34%UD could not gain you more than .034 if someone says they can feel that I will politely call it placebo effect or wishful thinking.
Most other vehicles have belt driven waterpumps so their potential gain from an UD are greater.
UD can also be useful on a road race car that still has the power steering as it can reduce heat in that system.
12-26-2011, 01:28 PM
#14
thank you alot of great info in that post.. i guess its just driving me crazy not doing anything crazy to my set up this winter(not used to it) so i am just looking at every option.. as for the aftermarket dampeners i have looked into them but they are so dang expensive where as the u/d is only 80 bucks.. i guess i don't really know what to do know probably keep my stock wires and coil..
