LTCC Wiring?
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 50
Likes: 1
From: Bonney Lake, WA
LTCC Wiring? I'm trying to finish up my LTCC conversion on my 93 Z28. I am reading the directions that came with the system on which wire goes where, but right now I don't have any power getting to my module at all.
Here is what I've done with the wiring from following the directions for connecting the LTCC harness:
-White wire spliced to the White wire from the ICM connector that goes to the ECM for the ignition.
-Pink wires (2) are spliced to the coil pink wire for "Coil Power"
-Coil ground wires (both extend; 1 is on the engine block on the driver side, and the other is connected to a ground source that is on the body (all metal).
I get normal power to the ecm and engine will crank but no power to the LTCC module. Am I supposed to do anything with the black ground wire that is on the ICM connector that goes to the ECM or not?
Any help with this would be great
Here is what I've done with the wiring from following the directions for connecting the LTCC harness:
-White wire spliced to the White wire from the ICM connector that goes to the ECM for the ignition.
-Pink wires (2) are spliced to the coil pink wire for "Coil Power"
-Coil ground wires (both extend; 1 is on the engine block on the driver side, and the other is connected to a ground source that is on the body (all metal).
I get normal power to the ecm and engine will crank but no power to the LTCC module. Am I supposed to do anything with the black ground wire that is on the ICM connector that goes to the ECM or not?
Any help with this would be great
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 50
Likes: 1
From: Bonney Lake, WA
I did replace the stock fuse with a 20 amp fuse. What would be a good way to test if I have 12 volts to the pink wires with the key on? Thing is I don't get is that before I did this conversion, my car would start and run with no problem and then die after a certain amount of time, and that's when I found out again that my opti was bad again.
Agreed with the 20 amp fuse.
From the LTCC instruction page:
The OPTI Signals connect inline at the junction of the 4 Pin OPTI – PIGTAIL.
INSURE that The Production Pigtail has no corrosion or Defective Connections
This is on the top of the engine on RH passenger side (usually near Purge SOL Valve)
At the coil ends of the harness are Pink and Black wires for “Coil Power”
Ground the Black wires to the Engine Block as close as practical to the coils,
IT IS ESSENTIAL THAT GOOD GROUNDS ARE PRESENT.
Connect the Pink Wires to the Pink w/Black trace wire that formerly fed the LT1 single coil. Some models use a pink wire here. Verify 12 Volts key-on to feed the pink LTCC wires.
*The Production Coil and Module are No Longer Used.
From the LTCC instruction page:
The OPTI Signals connect inline at the junction of the 4 Pin OPTI – PIGTAIL.
INSURE that The Production Pigtail has no corrosion or Defective Connections
This is on the top of the engine on RH passenger side (usually near Purge SOL Valve)
At the coil ends of the harness are Pink and Black wires for “Coil Power”
Ground the Black wires to the Engine Block as close as practical to the coils,
IT IS ESSENTIAL THAT GOOD GROUNDS ARE PRESENT.
Connect the Pink Wires to the Pink w/Black trace wire that formerly fed the LT1 single coil. Some models use a pink wire here. Verify 12 Volts key-on to feed the pink LTCC wires.
*The Production Coil and Module are No Longer Used.
On The Tree
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 179
Likes: 3
From: Eastern Kentucky
What would be a good way to test if I have 12 volts to the pink wires with the key on
Did you replace the opti? The reason for asking is that mine had taken a crap on me. I replaced it and at the same time did the LTCC. When all was finished it would not start. If I recall correctly I wasn't getting power. Turned out the opti I swapped to was dead also. Swapped the sensor out and then I could verify all the correct reading wire to wire. Ran great since.
