LT1-LT4 Modifications 1993-97 Gen II Small Block V8

LT1 intake and nitrous

Old Jan 12, 2012 | 09:58 PM
  #41  
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Right but running a big shot of 250+ i would have a controller that has the ability to actively control the shot size based on multiple inputs. not just a time based...

sorry not saying anything negative, but most won't spray over a 200; and i just don't really see the need when a simple two stage that can be tuned with simple jet swaps to get all that most want out of their nitrous setups. progressive can be costly and be a little bit over kill for the typical nitrous user. With hvyss's plans he's just not really there yet, whether it be his setup or just the nerve to push the limits...

also if your chassis is setup right the front tires will barely leave the ground.... if the bumper rubbing is a problem the progressive is the band-aid and not the solution. not saying i wouldn't be using one just not what needs to be changed.
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Old Jan 13, 2012 | 05:55 AM
  #42  
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Everybody should remember we're talking about a long wheelbase B-body here. We WISH we had the "problem" of dragging the bumper .... LOL!
Weight transfer is our issue. The problem is usually not at the initial tire hit, but rather it spins as the power really comes in AFTER hitting the tires.
Frank has been launching NA and then bringing in the full shot several feet out, still in 1st gear (TH400), and dealing with some tire spin. I agree that a 2-stage would make more sense in his case than a progressive. Launch on a 75 shot and bring in the 125 about the time he's in 2nd gear.
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Old Jan 13, 2012 | 11:12 AM
  #43  
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would any of you guys be interested in my intake/nitrous plate setup? i may be going away from the LT1 engine. well, for awhile at least.
how much would you be willing to pay for a setup like this? i didnt even hit it but 6-7 times, and only turned the 2nd stage on once briefly.
Attached Thumbnails LT1 intake and nitrous-013.jpg  
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Old Jan 13, 2012 | 12:03 PM
  #44  
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I'll give ya 350... wish it was in budget right now... I have the car torn down AGAIN hunting minor issues... and the motor is being swapped soon anyways, idk why I even bother...



also, whats the ruling on the intakes for the LTX shootout, I read the rules a couple times and my gold fish memory isn't helping...
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Old Jan 14, 2012 | 09:30 PM
  #45  
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wow looks bad a$$ wish It was carb and would fit on that bull sh_t junk yard motor thats in my 91z so I could blow the bottom end out of it before I pull it.
Just got lt1 today for its replacement
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Old Jan 15, 2012 | 11:37 PM
  #46  
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Why do you guys say the front 4 cylinders are getting the beating? The rear cylinders on this tuneup are taking all the abuse- it's a very lean tuneup, so the front cylinders arent overly rich, but the rear cylinders are very lean. And whoever says that rich is safe needs to put down the bottle nut wrench before he hurts his motor...

Personally I'd rather have one kit and use a progressive than have two kits and try to just turn them on... so much easier to tune for different track conditions with a progressive and to make consistent changes than just turning on two different kits. Easier to tune one kit than two as well.... And the FJO progressive is only $200... cheaper than adding a second kit too. And it needs the full hit way sooner than the 60ft, just needs a way to bring it in just a touch smoother....

I tune the nitrous on this car, and for the setup, the timing is very agressive although it doesnt seem like it on paper... its just very efficient, hense the low timing. It isnt exactly 3 degrees per 50hp either... the motor gets real sensitive to timing beyond 150 jets, and made a ton of heat when i leaned it out last... pulled 3 extra degrees on the last hit and only jetted it up 25hp, yet it still made more heat on the plugs

Last edited by mrdodge01; Jan 16, 2012 at 12:37 AM.
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Old Jan 16, 2012 | 08:19 AM
  #47  
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Originally Posted by mrdodge01
Why do you guys say the front 4 cylinders are getting the beating? The rear cylinders on this tuneup are taking all the abuse- it's a very lean tuneup, so the front cylinders arent overly rich, but the rear cylinders are very lean. And whoever says that rich is safe needs to put down the bottle nut wrench before he hurts his motor...

Personally I'd rather have one kit and use a progressive than have two kits and try to just turn them on... so much easier to tune for different track conditions with a progressive and to make consistent changes than just turning on two different kits. Easier to tune one kit than two as well.... And the FJO progressive is only $200... cheaper than adding a second kit too. And it needs the full hit way sooner than the 60ft, just needs a way to bring it in just a touch smoother....

I tune the nitrous on this car, and for the setup, the timing is very agressive although it doesnt seem like it on paper... its just very efficient, hense the low timing. It isnt exactly 3 degrees per 50hp either... the motor gets real sensitive to timing beyond 150 jets, and made a ton of heat when i leaned it out last... pulled 3 extra degrees on the last hit and only jetted it up 25hp, yet it still made more heat on the plugs
what kinda plugs were in there? and on that last hit, did the car go faster than the previous pass?
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Old Jan 17, 2012 | 05:33 PM
  #48  
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NGK 8s- I wanted something a little colder but we couldnt get anything in time... It did pick up on the last pass, but we're not sure exactly how much because the track turned the timers off (thats another story) but the driver (geramie) said the shift light came on 150-200ft sooner, and felt quite a bit faster....
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Old Jan 18, 2012 | 06:23 AM
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Posted my single plane and entire top end in the classifieds
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