LT1-LT4 Modifications 1993-97 Gen II Small Block V8

383 LT1 Tuning Problems

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Old Jan 4, 2012 | 02:59 PM
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Default 383 LT1 Tuning Problems

Tried posting this in the ls tuning section, but nobody has helped me yet.
So basically, I've got a 95 z28 with a built 383 stroker. I've already sent my PCM off to be flashed for the motor. I got it back and it runs, but it's rich as hell and the timing is off. I've got a couple friends with tuning software like hptuners, but those only work for OBDII computers and I've got OBDI. I was looking at TunerCat's OBDI LT1 Pro Tuning Kit so I can just do it myself, but I don't know anything about them. What do ya'll think I should do? Has anybody even heard of Tuner Cat before?
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Old Jan 4, 2012 | 03:20 PM
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how wild is the motor? I've been doing my own tuning for a few years now, it's not too difficult, just requires some patience. Yea the tunercat deal is the best way to go.
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Old Jan 4, 2012 | 04:10 PM
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Not that bad... Forged internals, arp bolts, stock heads with 1.6 roller rockers, 220/224 @.050" with .505" lift cam, 42lb injectors (want to spray this spring), light weight flywheel, stage 2 clutch, and 3.73 gears...
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Old Jan 4, 2012 | 04:49 PM
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double check for exhaust leaks just to make sure it's not an exhaust leak causing it to go fauls lean. With that obd I I would get a cable since your gonna need it anyway to load a new tune and do a data log with Data Master first so you can see exactly whats going on. Then with the cable you will be able to extract the current tune and have someone look at it and then be able to load the tune with cats software. Hope the place you had it done didn't lock it though.
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Old Jan 4, 2012 | 05:19 PM
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The reason I was thinking about going TC was so I could just do it myself... I don't have any exhaust leaks and i'm running rich bc I don't think he tuned it correctly for my injectors, but i told him i was running 42#.
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Old Jan 4, 2012 | 10:30 PM
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If you have a laptop or access to one that will help with the data log. If you don't have the cable that would be the first thing to get and then get access to a laptop and run a data log through data master to verify what your thinking is the problem and then you can work on the tune and up load and data log again. Here is what I did when a tunner screewed up my N/A 383 tune. Car had the same problem running pig rich. Swapped to OBD1 and bought a cable from moates.net 80 bucks. Get the right one for how ever many pins your Port has under the dash. Then bought a tune from madtunner.com 75 bucks and all updates are 25bucks. TTS Data master has about 20 free data logs before you have to buy it. loaded tune with what madtuner sent me to up load his tune with. His tune runs great now. I even did a data log and sent it to him to review. done. It will give you a base line to get it up and running or IDK maybe Wicked will do one for you. Might PM him and see but the cable is essential for loading and data logging. If you have never tunned then might be best to get a good base line down before tring to figure out how to do it. I went through 2 sets of O2's and 3 sets of plugs running around in circles for the first tunner and it never ran right. Hope that helps.
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Old Jan 4, 2012 | 11:19 PM
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I do have a laptop, but I don't have the cord. I was looking at the TunerCat bc it has everything including the software cd... Do really need their program software or can I just use Data master to do everything?
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Old Jan 5, 2012 | 12:21 AM
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I have not looked at how much tunercat is these days. If it comes with the cable for a decent price then do what ever man. Data master is a logging software that show a lot of parameters in the pcm it's good to use to see if your going in the right direction. A wide band may help you as well in your tuning adventures. I still say get a base line and learn that way but it's up to you. It takes some time to learn and get it right. You just have to be careful the engine doesn’t pay the price of any learning curves.
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Old Jan 5, 2012 | 02:07 AM
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I would pick up a cable, datamaster, tunercat, and an AEM wideband. You can log the wideband through datamaster (detailed thread on cz28.com i believe) and it will make tuning VERY straight forward.
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Old Jan 6, 2012 | 12:44 AM
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Where would be the best place to put the wideband? Should I just replace one of my o2 sensors or put it at the end of the ypipe?
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Old Jan 6, 2012 | 07:57 AM
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TunerCat is awesome, you can get the cable/tunercat/datamaster in the LT1 pro-tuner kit found at tunercat.com. If you have questions, TC has great support and responds quickly. The wideband cannot replace an o2 sensor unless your running an open loop tune.
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Old Jan 6, 2012 | 09:16 AM
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Originally Posted by SupermanZ28
The reason I was thinking about going TC was so I could just do it myself... I don't have any exhaust leaks and i'm running rich bc I don't think he tuned it correctly for my injectors, but i told him i was running 42#.
Thats what i was saying to myself , but when we lifted it up there were 2 small spts leaking. welded it up and it made a huge difference. Dont hurt to check. as for a mail order tune there worthless and only good to get you to a dyno or like wise. you need real world data to look over an see what everything is doing
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Old Jan 6, 2012 | 11:12 AM
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So I guess I need to go ahead and check my exhaust again.
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Old Jan 6, 2012 | 11:14 AM
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An exhaust leak won't cause me to run rich will it?
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Old Jan 6, 2012 | 11:35 AM
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Originally Posted by SupermanZ28
An exhaust leak won't cause me to run rich will it?
Yup....if it's in front of the O2 sensors....they will sense the extra oxygen leaking in and assume the motor is running lean and start dumping fuel making it rich as hell....been there done that....leaky headers are a PITA.
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Old Jan 6, 2012 | 12:17 PM
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Oh, okay... Most definitely gonna check that out today
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Old Jan 6, 2012 | 01:58 PM
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It don't have to be before the o2 sensor for it to cause an issue. I just delt with this same exact issue on one of my cars. Checked the headers and gaskets 3 time after logging the car and seeing issues. Ended up being the y pipe leaking cause false o2 readings that caused hi rpm break up and a funny shift during 2-3. Welded them up and re logged and was a night and day difference. Check it out
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