05HD

Was that too complicated?

Wicked94Z

iTrader: (26)

QTPs are not a drag radial. The weight distribution on the vette has nothing to do with how it hits the tire. And yes it is true... you NEED to run a tube in an ET Street if you want the tire to work and you want the sidewall to last. Has nothing to do with leakage, and has everything to do with using them in a torque arm f-body.

gregrob

iTrader: (8)

^truth. Ive seen them shred the side wall with no tubes.

Wicked94Z

iTrader: (26)

Brian knows everything

gregrob

iTrader: (8)

SS RRR

iTrader: (2)

No other tire will hook other than a slick?
I figured a QTP was a DR since they are DOT approved. ET Streets work just fine without a tube for the average power levels like about 100% of the members of this forum. Weight transfer may not have anything to do with how torque hits the tire, but has everything to do with the instant load put on that tire which effects how the footprint stays true. The better the weight transfer the easier it is for load to be applied to the tire. Point being is a Vette can get away with launching on less tire/stiffer sidewall than a torque arm f-body therefore not sure why an example of a Vette is brought into this thread.
Have you ever used ET Streets without tubes?
Absolutely. I've seen them explode and kill dozens...

05HD

Just those imaginary QTP radials. LMFAO.

SS RRR

iTrader: (2)

Why won't an ET Street work?

Wicked94Z

iTrader: (26)

I brought up the vette example because it was an actual example of this exact tire being used in real life. Does it exactly correlate? No, but I personally think he should be on a different tire. Yes as I said I've been mid 1.4s on ET Streets without tubes, and they would have been better with tubes, way too much give in the sidewall. Please stop posting about weight distribution and weight transfer. do you realize that these are dynamic conditions VERY MUCH influenced by instant center, anti-squat, and shock settings?

SS RRR

iTrader: (2)

Absolutely. There are many variables at play just as there are with a torque arm f-body, however the fact remains the average Vette going to the track does not need as much sidewall as that of the average f-body. You forgot track prep, sir.
It's a shame you did not put tubes in to prove your claim. As stated, for the average power made from most everyone in this forum, tube/no tube, it will not matter. I generated repeated 1.70 to 1.75 60' times with 26X10.5 tubeless ET Streets dead hooking with a M6 at 3750lbs and no tire spin whatsoever making average power like most everyone on here, therefore stop preaching the voodoo.

Wicked94Z

iTrader: (26)

we're on different wavelengths here, sorry

SS RRR

iTrader: (2)

Glad you're back, pooky.

05HD

That wasn't a serious reply, I was just making fun of your obvious lack of knowledge on what you are recommending to other forum members.

SS RRR

iTrader: (2)

Yeah that's pretty serious not knowing a QTP is not a DR. Life or death. It's a shame you didn't catch it before Wicked did. Now, can you expound on why you'd use a slick over an ET Street or even a QTP tire?

Wicked94Z

iTrader: (26)

SickSixSpeed

I have a th350 in my car at the moment.

I think im gonna try these out and let yall know how it goes!

05HD

I don't usually read your posts, just make sure they aren't directed towards me. I prefer slicks because they hook better than anything else and have the longest life expectancy with competition use in my experience. Why do you prefer tires that you dreamed up from thin air?

Be careful if you are going to mix radials and bias ply, especially without tubes in the bias plies. My old car had some very odd handling characteristics with that combination.

SS RRR

iTrader: (2)

I actually use QTP's and they are the best tire I've used so far. I'd much rather use them than a slick. Far more practical and with the advancements made with tire compounds as compared to just 5 or more years ago, they hook as good as a slick. If one wants to use them on the street they don't have to worry about being caught in a rain storm and/or cornering to a certain degree. Now, as far as the DR thing, I really did not put much thought into it. I bought them, saw they were a DOT approved bias ply and by default figured they were a DR. For shame. I'll let you grind on that as long as you want since I didn't let up on the fact you didn't know how an engine decelerates as well as a few other gems I've read.
Not sure what your "experience" is based on since the 275 DR class is in the sub 1.3 range...
Pretty much a blanket statement, which is why I believe all you do is read something or hear a rumor and parrot it like it's gospel truth. It depends on the power level/speed/suspension setup of any given vehicle and, according to some, tire size/profile front and rear. It has been said a 15X10" wheel is far more stable than a 15X8. Is it true? I dunno. I use a 15X10 and it still sways. I'm running 275/40/17's up front and my 27X15" QTP's and by golly gee willakers, no tubes and it sways, however since it is realized the sway is normal there is not need to panic and try to correct. I ran 26X10.5 ET Streets with no tubes on 97 Camaro wheels for years running between 115 and 120, no tubes and the car did not sway, at least any that was noticeable.
Once again, since this is for the average f-body making average power like most here, there should be no concern running street radials up front and bias plys in the rear. Tube or no tube. Throngs of f-body owners have done this for years and years. If running maybe in the low 120's and up through the traps, it may be a concern.

05HD

So, you actually claim to own a set of QTPs, saw that they are bias ply and figured that must mean they are drag radials?

Do you know what radial means? How about bias ply, do you know what that means?

ahritchie

iTrader: (1)