How hard would it be to remove the hvac box with the engine in the car? I am going to keep heat when I do this, so pulling the dash and pulling it out from the inside is not an option. Is it possible to use a cut off wheel, dremel, and or hammer and just break the box out of the bay, while keeping the stuff inside the car intact?

 

You must remove the dash to remove the hvac the correct way. The heater core is connected to the hvac so a hammer or cut off wheel will o my get you so far. It takes less that. 10 min to remove he dash anyway.

 

If you remove the dash, does the whole box come out as one unit?

 

It can be done without the dash coming out. I did mine from the bay with a dremel and a lot of patience. I also modded the box to retain heat/defrost

 

Thats what i was hoping for. Did you have the motor in the car?

 

Yup. Removed some stuff like coils and moved wiring but the motor stayed put

 

I just did mine with engine in the bay, it can be done. If it is only 10 minutes to remove the dash, you'd be quicker going that route than the way I did it from the engine bay with engine in. 1 hour and 15 minutes for me, so far. I am just about done maybe 10 more minutes of fine detailing.

 

Anyone that can pull the dash cleanly in 10min is a f'n magician. It took me an hour and that was with most of the interior out

 

Awesome, looks like I found my next project

 

Air ratchet and knowing where the bolts are. 7mm for the top 10mmor for the console and 13mm for the end bolts and 15mm for the column. I use the seats to rest the dash at an angle to pop the evap box out. Once the dash is out I use a 10mm swivel to remove eval box with a 12in retention.

 

I know where all the bolts are, and it's no 10 minute job. It takes 10 minutes to remove all the trim before you can actually GET to the dash. If it's your first time, give yourself a couple hours. Otherwise, you're going to break things.

 

Well I took the plunge today and did some more cutting on the car. The AC delete turned out good, my heater blows just as hard as factory. The cutting isn't too bad, just tedious, and all that fiberglass dust from the lower portion sucks!!

Now I just need to relocate the alternator and get rid of the ABS block, then hide all the wires with the next build.

I also kept the vacuum line so I can still switch the airflow to head, feet, or defrost.

After all the cutting


With the panel to re-route airflow in place


All finished up


Close Up

 

how did you attach the cover piece?

 

Man if I didn't live in ms this would have been my first mod. But can't do 100*+ summers with no ac been there done that.

 

Is there a pully to put in place of the one that was there for the compressor?
I took out the compressor of my sons camaro but unsure of how to run the belt now.

 

yea you need a ac delete pulley. i have one for $10 used in perfect condition.
and this is a cool thred i never seen no one do it like this...

 

Im about to do this since the engine is out so the cutting shouldnt be to bad. If I make the passage to retain heat can I use the UMI delete panel on the engine bay side? Ive read its made for the inside of the car.

My other question is how did you attach the panel

 

I just did the AC delete on my car. I kept the heat and installed the UMI delete panel from the engine side of the firewall. Check out my thread on LTxtech, I used the pictures Spartan7 posted on where to cut the inside of the old HVAC box to keep the heat functional.

http://ltxtech.com/forums/showthread...-heater-ANYONE

The UMI panel is made to be installed from the inside of the car. I had to trim one corner a little to make it fit on the engine side of the firewall. I used all the same bolts I removed from the HVAC box. There were a few holes that I had to get creative with and used some fasteners from the local hardware store. I cut an oval hole for both the heater core lines to pass through. Behind them I used some HVAC foam from the hardware store to make a gasket with plenty of RTV to seal everything up air tight.

 

Sweet thanks 97Pon!

 

Pretty much sums it up, and the use of RTV is very important to make the seal. My heater blows just as hard as factory. Sorry I never got back on this thread, I must have forgotten about it