Dying battery issue
Dying battery issue The car has been parked for a while, a few days ago the car would not start because the battery was dead. No problem, I'll just jump start it, no still dead, took it to Vatozone to get it charged and this time it fired right up.
I parked it for the day, the next day it wouldn't start again, dead battery. took it back to get charged again and this time the battery is DEAD; they could not recharge it. I bought a new battery, it fired right up again, parked it and the next day, the battery is dead.
Ok, just I must have a bad alternator, I got a new one, switched in my core and installed it today, along with a good, charged battery, let it run for a little over an hour. I turned it off and it would NOT turn back on.
Now I figured I have a electrical malfunction some where; I checked all my fuses, under the hood, and inside the car, replaced one for the radio.
I checked all my cables and wiring ( I recently did the 97+ dash swap, I have the wiring to my cluster correctly, everything is reading.)
Right now the dash is apart and I am making sure I don't have any loose connections or anything like that, I will buy a volt-meter tomorrow but what should I test it on?
Have you guys had any experience with finding a electrical leak?
The car is a 1996 LT1 Camaro, AUTO, the car has an electric water pump, LTCC coil conversion, and a 97+ dash swap.
The car ran fine before the dash swap and even after I drove it for a few months before having this issue. My cluster works and everything is reading correctly, the dash is out of the car now as I believe it has to be the result of the dash swap somehow.
What should I check with the volt-meter?
Any help is greatly appreciated! Thanks!
I parked it for the day, the next day it wouldn't start again, dead battery. took it back to get charged again and this time the battery is DEAD; they could not recharge it. I bought a new battery, it fired right up again, parked it and the next day, the battery is dead.
Ok, just I must have a bad alternator, I got a new one, switched in my core and installed it today, along with a good, charged battery, let it run for a little over an hour. I turned it off and it would NOT turn back on.
Now I figured I have a electrical malfunction some where; I checked all my fuses, under the hood, and inside the car, replaced one for the radio.
I checked all my cables and wiring ( I recently did the 97+ dash swap, I have the wiring to my cluster correctly, everything is reading.)
Right now the dash is apart and I am making sure I don't have any loose connections or anything like that, I will buy a volt-meter tomorrow but what should I test it on?
Have you guys had any experience with finding a electrical leak?
The car is a 1996 LT1 Camaro, AUTO, the car has an electric water pump, LTCC coil conversion, and a 97+ dash swap.
The car ran fine before the dash swap and even after I drove it for a few months before having this issue. My cluster works and everything is reading correctly, the dash is out of the car now as I believe it has to be the result of the dash swap somehow.
What should I check with the volt-meter?
Any help is greatly appreciated! Thanks!
A parasitic drain is my guess. If you have any aftermarket components I would target those first. You also have to make sure the RAP relays are off before testing which will give you an inaccurate reading on your volt meter. You have to wait approx 10 minutes without triggering the interior lights before testing according to shoebox's schematic:
http://shbox.com/1/rap_schematic.jpg
You need to keep any and all lights off while testing as well or the relays will trigger.
Here's a good writeup on how to test and what volt meter to buy:
http://flashoffroad.com/electrical/B...teryDrain.html
^^^
Very important.
http://shbox.com/1/rap_schematic.jpg
You need to keep any and all lights off while testing as well or the relays will trigger.
Here's a good writeup on how to test and what volt meter to buy:
http://flashoffroad.com/electrical/B...teryDrain.html
get a digital meter capable of reading up to 10 amps DC
Very important.
Last edited by SS RRR; Jan 17, 2012 at 12:17 PM.
If the battery is fully charged, how long does it take to discharge? Charge it with a battery charger with one cable disconnected as we have no idea if the alternator is working or not. Then hook the cable back up and check battery voltage, then check it again in an hour, and again in another hour. See how much it drops. If you don't have a meter, use the one in the dash. Just turn on the key and read it. Post the results here.
Al 95 Z28
Al 95 Z28
I'm going to do the volt meter test and start pulling fuses this weekend, thx alot!
I want to go over my grounds as well, I might have missed or took em off during my dash swap.
Is there a list somewhere that shows all the ground locations throughout the car? I didn't remove any from the engine bay, probably only the ones in the interior.
I want to go over my grounds as well, I might have missed or took em off during my dash swap.
Is there a list somewhere that shows all the ground locations throughout the car? I didn't remove any from the engine bay, probably only the ones in the interior.
I'm going to do the volt meter test and start pulling fuses this weekend, thx alot!
I want to go over my grounds as well, I might have missed or took em off during my dash swap.
Is there a list somewhere that shows all the ground locations throughout the car? I didn't remove any from the engine bay, probably only the ones in the interior.
I want to go over my grounds as well, I might have missed or took em off during my dash swap.
Is there a list somewhere that shows all the ground locations throughout the car? I didn't remove any from the engine bay, probably only the ones in the interior.
If the battery is fully charged, how long does it take to discharge? Charge it with a battery charger with one cable disconnected as we have no idea if the alternator is working or not. Then hook the cable back up and check battery voltage, then check it again in an hour, and again in another hour. See how much it drops. If you don't have a meter, use the one in the dash. Just turn on the key and read it. Post the results here.
Al 95 Z28
Al 95 Z28
As for the battery drain rate, if I put in a charged/good battery and crank it up and turn if off, the car will not start up again and the battery is done. The voltage stays in the red range on the meter.
A couple things I'm thinking about, would having the A/C dial on or any of the other settings on like the mode or heat/cold cause a constant draw?
If I have left off a ground, technically, my car should not start at all with a good battery right? The car starts fine every time on the first crank with a good battery.
I remember for sure that there is a ground that sits under the center console that is loose, could this be a possible drain?
Thanks!
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Depends on what the ground is for. If you have a good ground to the PCM and battery then the car should start, I believe...
Check voltage on your alternator while the car is running first. It should be at a steady 14.5 volts and should not fluctuate.
Check voltage on your alternator while the car is running first. It should be at a steady 14.5 volts and should not fluctuate.
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Verdad Gallardo Yep, I will check the voltage on the battery cables and the alternator as soon as I can.
The ground under the center console was in the same wire loom as the airbag sensor box, wires for the aux cig ports, shift light, console light, etc. I don't think it should be a problem, but going to bolt it down anyways.
The ground under the center console was in the same wire loom as the airbag sensor box, wires for the aux cig ports, shift light, console light, etc. I don't think it should be a problem, but going to bolt it down anyways.
All good advice^
It sounds to me like the alternator is not charging the battery. As you've been working on the wiring, I'll guess it's something you did-sorry to say.
Here's an easy alternator test (but you'll need that voltmeter):
With the car running and the meter across the battery, note the voltage. Turn on the headlights. The volts should not drop.
It sounds to me like the alternator is not charging the battery. As you've been working on the wiring, I'll guess it's something you did-sorry to say.
Here's an easy alternator test (but you'll need that voltmeter):
With the car running and the meter across the battery, note the voltage. Turn on the headlights. The volts should not drop.
Al 95 Z28
All good advice^
It sounds to me like the alternator is not charging the battery. As you've been working on the wiring, I'll guess it's something you did-sorry to say.
Here's an easy alternator test (but you'll need that voltmeter):
With the car running and the meter across the battery, note the voltage. Turn on the headlights. The volts should not drop.
It sounds to me like the alternator is not charging the battery. As you've been working on the wiring, I'll guess it's something you did-sorry to say.
Here's an easy alternator test (but you'll need that voltmeter):
With the car running and the meter across the battery, note the voltage. Turn on the headlights. The volts should not drop.
I just got this alternator, its a re-man one from Autozone.
When I work on it this weekend, I will start it and immediately turn it off to see if it will start again.
Thanks for all the help!
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Did you ever find the problem I’m having the same issue The car has been parked for a while, a few days ago the car would not start because the battery was dead. No problem, I'll just jump start it, no still dead, took it to Vatozone to get it charged and this time it fired right up.
I parked it for the day, the next day it wouldn't start again, dead battery. took it back to get charged again and this time the battery is DEAD; they could not recharge it. I bought a new battery, it fired right up again, parked it and the next day, the battery is dead.
Ok, just I must have a bad alternator, I got a new one, switched in my core and installed it today, along with a good, charged battery, let it run for a little over an hour. I turned it off and it would NOT turn back on.
Now I figured I have a electrical malfunction some where; I checked all my fuses, under the hood, and inside the car, replaced one for the radio.
I checked all my cables and wiring ( I recently did the 97+ dash swap, I have the wiring to my cluster correctly, everything is reading.)
Right now the dash is apart and I am making sure I don't have any loose connections or anything like that, I will buy a volt-meter tomorrow but what should I test it on?
Have you guys had any experience with finding a electrical leak?
The car is a 1996 LT1 Camaro, AUTO, the car has an electric water pump, LTCC coil conversion, and a 97+ dash swap.
The car ran fine before the dash swap and even after I drove it for a few months before having this issue. My cluster works and everything is reading correctly, the dash is out of the car now as I believe it has to be the result of the dash swap somehow.
What should I check with the volt-meter?
Any help is greatly appreciated! Thanks!
I parked it for the day, the next day it wouldn't start again, dead battery. took it back to get charged again and this time the battery is DEAD; they could not recharge it. I bought a new battery, it fired right up again, parked it and the next day, the battery is dead.
Ok, just I must have a bad alternator, I got a new one, switched in my core and installed it today, along with a good, charged battery, let it run for a little over an hour. I turned it off and it would NOT turn back on.
Now I figured I have a electrical malfunction some where; I checked all my fuses, under the hood, and inside the car, replaced one for the radio.
I checked all my cables and wiring ( I recently did the 97+ dash swap, I have the wiring to my cluster correctly, everything is reading.)
Right now the dash is apart and I am making sure I don't have any loose connections or anything like that, I will buy a volt-meter tomorrow but what should I test it on?
Have you guys had any experience with finding a electrical leak?
The car is a 1996 LT1 Camaro, AUTO, the car has an electric water pump, LTCC coil conversion, and a 97+ dash swap.
The car ran fine before the dash swap and even after I drove it for a few months before having this issue. My cluster works and everything is reading correctly, the dash is out of the car now as I believe it has to be the result of the dash swap somehow.
What should I check with the volt-meter?
Any help is greatly appreciated! Thanks!
