Started a different thread about doing a head/cam swap but now im not sure what i want to do. I got $3000-$3500 to spend. This is a spread sheet of what I would like to do to my car over time, but what should i do first? Car is daily driven in the summer but i do have a spare. I have an idea of what most people will probably tell me to do but I want to hear it anyways.

I Like Power and want more power so I am leaning towards head, cam. I understand without suspension that you wont see the full gains of it, and with my 10 bolt i run the risk of explosion but i don't plan on going to the track that much or at all this year and if i do i'll baby the launch. Is it hard to break the rear end while moving or is it more of a initial launch that is the only worry.

so which of these should i chose for this years upgrades?

along with listed suspension i would do sfc, lca, sway bar phr.

Now if i go with head cam set up what RR would you recommend and would you go with 1.6 or 1.7? If you got part numbers that would be awesome. Push rods i always assumed you need to measure then order but i see some places sell kits witth rods and rr and you get them at a discount for buying both...

If I didn't upgrade the RR and kept my stock ones wouldn't i need different push rods anyways because of a bigger cam?

I no which gaskets need to be changed thanks to the camshaft guide but does anyone have recommendations as to which name brand or a specific place to purchase them?

sorry for the longish read.

 

Ok so Personally I'd do engine and drive line upgrades first. Rockers, Spend the money once. What ever ratio you go with a good quality RR needs to be bought. I went cheap rout and I wish I hadn't. You should be able to find some used injectors for a good price. guys always buy the 30# red top SVO's and then have to upgrade them for more mods down the road. 40 42# is a good range and gives room to grow if you decide to stroke the thing down the road or add NOS. At some point your clutch may be screaming at you as well depending on how many miles it has on it. As I said before there are all the parts that have to be looked at on the engine like the Opti, Water pump, Oil pump drive gear, Gasket sets, Vac lines, Plugs and connectors all the things that like to break and stop working or need to be replaced lol, As well as the cost of clean work enviorment when changing the heads and cam. If you get anything in that engine while doing the swaps then its all for nothing. Also there are unknowns that may pop up. Start adding the little things to your budget and it will add up quick.

 

Waterpump along with a racetronix fuel pump in 08. plugs and wires changed last year.

thanks for the info.

 

I see you're an m6 car, I would do the differential 1st with a good used set-up. Be it a 9" or a 12 bolt. Thats the biggest item on your spread sheet and the most likely to break after you have spent your cash. Do it while you have the money. Next, I'd get that cam and the supporting components and gaskets needed. That cam would be very good in a stock head and be even better later when you port your heads. Install all that and you have probably spent that load. You have then added power and should be able to use it without fear. The torque-arm would be better to be removed from the tranny asap.

 

Get a rear before your 10 bolt explodes. A stock M6 will shred a factory diff with ease.

 

What else is likely to break when you break your rear end. Does it internally blow or is there chances of it breaking other stuff like suspension components. The car is a summer "toy" so if i broke the 10 bolt and the car had to sit till next year it would suck but I would get over it or find a way to replace it. With that being said i don't want to break other stuff and add expenses either.

I really expect to have most people telling me to replace the rear end and i guess im looking for a reason not to just so i can put money in more enjoyable areas lol. Is it worth risking it if the car never sees hard launches or the track?

People have been able to put down 400+ whp and not ruin the 10 bolt. I know this is the exception to the rule and not the rule itself though lol..

 

My sig pic is a pic of a car that has 145,000 miles on the stock engine that is hiking the front left and running high 12's. What I mean by stock is: Exhaust manifolds, stock cam, stock 1.5 rockers, stock throttle body, stock injectors, ect. What is done to the car to do that? A 12 bolt, which allows slicks. A short torque-arm, which plants the whopper 275hp. A spec-4 clutch, which is overkill. A 10bolt will put down 400whp at the dyno yes you are correct. With a 6spd, it will not put down 400hp at the starting line, just parts.

My sig description includes my new winter upgrades head and cam package

 

I agree with these guys on the rear. I am only halfway through installing my heads and cam and I wish I woulda spent the money on a rear bought some slicks and sprayed it. Oh well I guess.

 

Usually the people that you see with 400+ HP with a 10 bolt are A4 guys. M6s break the 10 bolt a lot easier because of the shock from launching it. With good tires and a good launch you can break the 10 bolt with just bolt-ons

 

I've been looking at 9" and 12 bolts and although i'm finding them in the price i was looking for I can't find them in a location near me. Don't want to waiste $250 in gas to pick one up lol.


I understand the risks of higher horse power m6 cars running 10 bolts but is it that bad of a decision to keep the 10 bolt considering im not going to be going to the track, and know not to launch the car? Am I at risk of breaking the rear while moving?

Anyone have answers to the parts questions I posted?

 

Save more money and do everything in the driveline to support your h/c set up..

 

I'd like to throw in 7/16 Comp 1.6 Ultras and Comp hightech pushrods, guideplates and ARP 7/16 screw in rocker studs, 58mm throttle body to compliment your ported intake, upgrade clutch to Spec stage I or better, dyno tune. Fully concentrate on the engine first. Best of luck.