lt1 oils
The cheapest API rated oil you can find will do the trick no problem so run whatever you feel like running.
Far as the "big boy 383 440hp" I hope you realize the popular 440hp strokers are a joke that make less power than the good heads/cam setups. So take that year to learn about what is actually good.
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 95
Likes: 0
From: illinois
yea really havent done any lookin into it but i never knew that want to run stock trans just had it built at a local shop with a shift kit i have 172,000 on motor what do you recomend for a lower budget build
thanks
thanks
My opinion on this is a good Head/Cam combo from Lloyd Elliot (google it, I believe it's elliotsportworks.com). He has a H/C package for any needs and he'll also guide you through what parts you will need to support the cam/heads.
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Did you ever do a UOA to see if it was actually performing well?
Been awhile since I looked into it but for a LONG time the M1 UOAs in LT1s were mediocre at best high iron wear in particular. Marketing kept it a very popular choice though.
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Verdad Gallardo 170K miles is NOT a death sentence for an LT1. I have done compression tests on over 200K mile b-body LT1s which are only 10:1 compression stock and still found 190-195psi cranking compression. Engines don't wear like they did decades back when you had carburetors washing all the oil from the cylinder walls and heavy tension rings grinding at them.
3000mile oil changes have actually been shown to produce HIGHER average wear metal numbers in UOAs. They are an advertising scam. Might have been appropriate 40 years ago with lower quality oils and carburetors polluting the oil but in no way appropriate for this engine under vaguely normal use.
I ran valvoline durablend in my high mileage LT1, at the recommendation of my speed shop. It is a partial synthetic that wont break down as fast as full dyno oil, but is better for an LT1 and still less expensive then the Mobile 1.
M1 is more suited for newer aluminum block engines and is on the thin side.
M1 is more suited for newer aluminum block engines and is on the thin side.
Is this an inside joke or am I missing something? Is this some over rated internet engine not really making this power or are you mocking 440 actual hp output?
I didn't read it as a joke. 440 hp at the crank (which is how any motor for sale would be advertised) is mediocre heads/cam performance. That's, what, about 350 rwhp?
Yes, I guess I just read it the wrong way. For some that may be all the power they can muster a dollar for at the time. Down the road if the bottom end is done right a set of AI LE or trick flows with a good custom grind could be a great addition to a long term project. All depends on the amount of dollars to spend and the cost and quality of what you are buying. Wouldn't be a joke if it was a deal and was done right with future plans to get more out of it through heads and custom grind down the road.
