Need help with my budget build.
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From: Pasadena, Maryland
Need help with my budget build. So I have around 5 grand to put into my lt1, but I'm rather new to the ltx field and don't know what gives the best bang for buck. I already have pacesetter LTs and an ORY to magnaflow catback and a K&N FIPK but thats it. I hear LE heads would be good, but with 120k on the bottom end I'm not sure having a cam that makes power to 6500 would be a good idea.
Any input is appreciated!
Thanks
Any input is appreciated!
Thanks
if you want to use a power adder down the road go forged pistons, ARP bolts for stock rods, turn stock crank. ARP head studs, new rings, bearing, freeze plugs, etc etc.
A cheap rebuild. Than cold air intake, headers + exhaust, cam, gear (+ stall for auto's). should be good for 11.60's-12.30's @ 107-115mph.
A cheap rebuild. Than cold air intake, headers + exhaust, cam, gear (+ stall for auto's). should be good for 11.60's-12.30's @ 107-115mph.
I picked up an all forged 383 shortblock for less than many spend on 355's....just saying....something to think about. With a 355 you shouldnt need a new crank, just pistons. Take your time look around for deals, get the big items out of the way first so you know what you have left. A 5k build can turn into a 7-8k build really fast. Keep your stock castings, heads and intake, have them worked, matched with a cam, bigger injector. Put some good parts in teh shortblock pistons, rods, keep the stock crank. Start a parts list with pricing...keep paper bag close for queezy moments during this process
This is ALL dependent on you doing most if not ALL the work yourself. Engine removal, tear down, pay to have it reassembled, then reinstall in the car etc. Dont forget you will need a tune at the end of all that.
This is ALL dependent on you doing most if not ALL the work yourself. Engine removal, tear down, pay to have it reassembled, then reinstall in the car etc. Dont forget you will need a tune at the end of all that.
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Mine hasn't exploded the 10 bolt yet through a 6spd...but I'm only running 315mm street tires and it has a girdle. Just don't run slicks until you can afford to break a 10 bolt. There's always something to break, unless you drop well over 10K on the build initially with forged motor, rebuilt trans, and 9" ford rear. Just got to figure out which is most important to you to invest in first. LS1 Tech Stories
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Brett Foote Thread Starter
TECH Apprentice
iTrader: (5)
Joined: Jul 2010
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From: Pasadena, Maryland
Auto or 6spd? Auto would most likely need a performance rebuild and stall regardless of just H/C or 383 H/C....the HP difference isn't huge; torque down low in the RPM's while driving on the street is though Mine hasn't exploded the 10 bolt yet through a 6spd...but I'm only running 315mm street tires and it has a girdle. Just don't run slicks until you can afford to break a 10 bolt. There's always something to break, unless you drop well over 10K on the build initially with forged motor, rebuilt trans, and 9" ford rear. Just got to figure out which is most important to you to invest in first.
Mine hasn't exploded the 10 bolt yet through a 6spd...but I'm only running 315mm street tires and it has a girdle. Just don't run slicks until you can afford to break a 10 bolt. There's always something to break, unless you drop well over 10K on the build initially with forged motor, rebuilt trans, and 9" ford rear. Just got to figure out which is most important to you to invest in first.You can follow the build here if you are interested.
http://camaroforums.com/forum/93-02-...-thread-68658/
