lt1 heads
#1
lt1 heads
i have a 96 impala ss that i bought about 3 years ago. I took my car to a local shop to get the exhaust leak fixed on the pass side of the car come to find out the idiot over tighted the bolt and the bolt snapped off in the heads today i decided to tear the motor apart so i can pull the bolt out. I was wondering if any one had the torque specs on the heads and the intake... and i also want some input on the look of the motor the car has 252,xxx miles on a stock block
#3
11 Second Club
iTrader: (1)
Head bolts depends on what bolts you are putting back in.
A 96 probably had one time use TTY bolts, if you buy new OEM bolts that are TTY then you need the torque angle stuff listed above, but frankly I would probably just get "felpro" or the like replacement bolts and torque them to whatever spec the instructions say.
A 96 probably had one time use TTY bolts, if you buy new OEM bolts that are TTY then you need the torque angle stuff listed above, but frankly I would probably just get "felpro" or the like replacement bolts and torque them to whatever spec the instructions say.
#5
Head bolts depends on what bolts you are putting back in.
A 96 probably had one time use TTY bolts, if you buy new OEM bolts that are TTY then you need the torque angle stuff listed above, but frankly I would probably just get "felpro" or the like replacement bolts and torque them to whatever spec the instructions say.
A 96 probably had one time use TTY bolts, if you buy new OEM bolts that are TTY then you need the torque angle stuff listed above, but frankly I would probably just get "felpro" or the like replacement bolts and torque them to whatever spec the instructions say.
#6
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (2)
Pick up some new bolts. It's GREAT insurance while you have everything apart. I like ARP 134-3601.
The tightening method described above is pretty good, but an easier method is 25# first pass, 45# second pass, 70# last pass. www.shbox.com has the tightening sequence.
The tightening method described above is pretty good, but an easier method is 25# first pass, 45# second pass, 70# last pass. www.shbox.com has the tightening sequence.
#7
Check that oil pump drive piece for small hairline cracks while you have access to it. I swear it looks like there's a crack right in the middle of it, but could just be an oil drop or something.
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#9
11 Second Club
iTrader: (1)
A 96 will more than likely have TTY bolts and reusing them is not an option. TTY is Torque To Yeild, meaning they permanently stretch making them one time use. You will probably break head bolts if you try and reuse those.
I said "felpro" or the like because for your purposes you are not going to be likely to redo this any time soon, you just need a decent quality bolt and I am sure a reasonable price is something attractive to you as well. ARP is more money, certainly a very good piece but you don't need to worry about buying a very good piece you just need a decent replacement.
Far as the broken bolts they were crap from GM, don't blame a previous owner, there was a TSB with upgraded hardware because so many of these cars had those bolts break.
I said "felpro" or the like because for your purposes you are not going to be likely to redo this any time soon, you just need a decent quality bolt and I am sure a reasonable price is something attractive to you as well. ARP is more money, certainly a very good piece but you don't need to worry about buying a very good piece you just need a decent replacement.
Far as the broken bolts they were crap from GM, don't blame a previous owner, there was a TSB with upgraded hardware because so many of these cars had those bolts break.
#10
#11
You can see it in the picture you posted. It's at the back of the lifter valley. 1 bolt holds it in. It's a dummy distributor-type piece that spins off of the camshaft and drives the oil pump. They are notorious for cracking. Check the top of it very closely.
#12
finally got the broken bolt out and did some painting on the covers and intake while it was aprt