Newly Cammed LT1 runs fine until it warms up!
#21
9 Second Club
iTrader: (7)
its absolutly a tune issue.......car ran fine before the install......runs fine until it gets into closed loop........about 85% of mail orders ive seen locally have been FAR too rich at part throttle.....there are many things that can be making the ECM flip out in CL in the tune......use datamaster and log your RPM/LTFT's/STFT's/MAP/TCS/ECT/Fueling Mode and WB02 if you can.....if you dont have one you need to pick one up.....
#23
I have a 1995 z28 Camaro. I picked the car up for a few dollars it was half way done so I finished it. The car has a cc306 can and lots PS bolt one. The car will only run in a open loop. The fans kick on as soon as I start the car. I replaced the coolant temp sensor and the o2s and it is still running a open loop I put the stock Mar back on it and no change. It is burning very rich and back fires between 1 and 2 thousand rpm. Would the can cause these problems because of my factory tune. I also put a new OEM optispark on plugs wires coil and icm. I am waiting for my software to get here so I can data log but any insight would be good thanks.
#24
I have a 1995 z28 Camaro. I picked the car up for a few dollars it was half way done so I finished it. The car has a cc306 can and lots of bolt ons. The car will only run in a open loop. The fans kick on as soon as I start the car. I replaced the coolant temp sensor and the o2s and it is still running a open loop I put the stock Maf back on it and no change. It is burning very rich and back fires between 1 and 2 thousand rpm. Would the cam cause these problems because of my factory tune. I also put a new OEM optispark on plugs wires coil and icm. I am waiting for my software to get here so I can data log but any insight would be good thanks.
#25
Maybe someone can help me in terms of giving directions on how to upload a datalog? I have one of the car acting badly in closed loop, however parked in free rev. For now here is a screen shot of Datamaster,
I think there is definitely a knock count issue, lol and that is obviously retarding spark. My question is what is causing all this false knock? Valvetrain noise, maybe? If anyone can provide a way to upload this file let me know I'd love to get this figured out.
I think there is definitely a knock count issue, lol and that is obviously retarding spark. My question is what is causing all this false knock? Valvetrain noise, maybe? If anyone can provide a way to upload this file let me know I'd love to get this figured out.
#28
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If its only doing it in closed loop wouldn't it be a sensor issue? Since the computer reads them all.just throwing it out there. Have u tried unplugging an o2 to keep it in open loop? How did that work out? Run any different?
#29
No I havent only because it definitely runs much better while its in open loop. This is the only thing that is obvious to me as of now, especially after reading about how sensitive these stock knock sensors can be.
#30
Ok so I am still having this problem. I adjusted the valves and installed an LT4 knock module. I am still getting a constant knock retard at idle. 4 degrees, and it varies with throttle, only in closed loop. Seems to run ok in open loop however. Where do I go next?
#31
TECH Veteran
iTrader: (23)
Maybe someone can help me in terms of giving directions on how to upload a datalog? I have one of the car acting badly in closed loop, however parked in free rev. For now here is a screen shot of Datamaster,
I think there is definitely a knock count issue, lol and that is obviously retarding spark. My question is what is causing all this false knock? Valvetrain noise, maybe? If anyone can provide a way to upload this file let me know I'd love to get this figured out.
I think there is definitely a knock count issue, lol and that is obviously retarding spark. My question is what is causing all this false knock? Valvetrain noise, maybe? If anyone can provide a way to upload this file let me know I'd love to get this figured out.
Isnt 57 KPA kinda high for idle?
IAC is also very high.
#35
Haha my bad I meant to say I FELT like an idiot, I knew better. Anyway the coil and ICM are both pretty new (2 years max) but no they are not spaced from the head. Coolant temp sensor is a good point as well.
I was also considering o2 sensors... I want to try to unplug them while its running to see if it changes.
I was also considering o2 sensors... I want to try to unplug them while its running to see if it changes.
#36
http://www.njfboa.org/WBT/log1.uni
http://www.njfboa.org/WBT/log2.uni
These are 2 logs
I have checked the injector wires and they seem fine. I just did another datalog of the car. I unplugged the temp sensor and the car didnt start so I plugged it back in. I then got code 15 (coolant temp low, expected) and code 16, the code no one ever wants to see.
Heres what I dont understand. 1. I cleared both codes and both went away and didnt come back so was it a hiccup? 2. If this was an Opti problem, why would it only happen in closed loop (literally a night and day difference). 3. Did me unplugging the temp sensor cause the code 16 possibly? 4. If I did have an Opti problem wouldnt the code stay there? I hope you can veiw those logs
http://www.njfboa.org/WBT/log2.uni
These are 2 logs
I have checked the injector wires and they seem fine. I just did another datalog of the car. I unplugged the temp sensor and the car didnt start so I plugged it back in. I then got code 15 (coolant temp low, expected) and code 16, the code no one ever wants to see.
Heres what I dont understand. 1. I cleared both codes and both went away and didnt come back so was it a hiccup? 2. If this was an Opti problem, why would it only happen in closed loop (literally a night and day difference). 3. Did me unplugging the temp sensor cause the code 16 possibly? 4. If I did have an Opti problem wouldnt the code stay there? I hope you can veiw those logs