lethal bird

iTrader: (12)

So it looks like I popped a headgasket and I want to take everything out and freshen it up. How does this set up look and please give your advice to make it better. I do want to keep costs down so please keep that in mind.

Mahle PowerPak SBC250030F05
Stock rods and crank
Clevite bearings
Lt4 Ed timing set or Cloyes stock chain and crank sprocket
Millings standard oil pump
Le2 heads
LE cam
LE ported intake
Svo 30lb injectors
Arp bolts everywhere

Will I be ok with stock rods or should I go with something like a scat I beam? My goals are to have a mean street car with future plans of 150-200 shot.

F0x Slaughter

I would run forged pistons at least.
Wet shot?

EDIT: I'm an idiot, those are forged pistons.

WS Sick

If nitrous is a definite I would get a better rod. Keep in mind most people spin bearings on nitrous motors by unheard detonation that beats the rod bearing out of crush.

93 LT1 Vette

I've poured the juice "100 horse to 150" on a stock bottom end for over a year with zero lower end issues. My car is an early run 93 with the pinkrods not powder metal. Powder metal are suppose to be better, I would add some quality ARP rod bolts and get it balanced unless you plan on spinning it to 7000rpms+. Then I would go fully forged including forged pistons. Just keep the timing conservative and the spark plugs 2 steps colder. i run NGK BR7EF's at .035 zero problems.

Beau@SDPC

iTrader: (14)

My stock engine held a 150 for over 3 years before it popped a head gasket, which leaves us in the same boat.

It is very similar to the build I will be doing soon, except I am going extreme budget build. 355ci, stock crank/rods, Clevite main/rod bearings, Dura-Bond cam bearings, LT4 Hotcam kit, LT4 ED Timing set, 30 lb. SVOs. I plan to spray no more than 150 on that setup.

You should be okay going with a 150; a 200 on a dead nuts tune. Make sure to run a nitrous application ring set (Ackerly & Childs would a good choice), and make dang sure A/F is spot on!!

lethal bird

iTrader: (12)

I dont have to run stock rods just seeing if there ok to keep costs down. I'm finishing up college so still kinda broke from books and such.

lethal bird

iTrader: (12)

I'm still not sure on nitrous yet I would just like to be able to spray it and not worry. And if I do the most it will see is 150 more than likely I doubt would spray a 200 just want to be able to if I decide to.

WS Sick

The reson I allways recommend new forged rods is that you can pick up a set of Scat 4340 rods for 200 bucks. If you have your stock rods reconditioned with new bolts you might save only 15 to 20 dollors.

93 LT1 Vette

How many miles? Polish the stock crank if it mic's good. Check the bores for taper wear and ridges at the top of the cylinders if good, hone it out. Stuff some new std bore forged pistons with new rings and rod and main bearings and call it a day. If everything mics and plasigauges good without machining, your out for less than 500 bones.

lethal bird

iTrader: (12)

Good idea I didn't even think about that.

Edit 120k.

355z28

iTrader: (8)

I would:
Polish stock crank
take the block and have it cleaned and if it checks out have them do the honing
std bore forged pistons powerpack is a great setup, also check into CPs bullet line they come with rings
I would go with Scat 7/16 bolt I beam rods (by the time you recondition yours and install ARP hardware you can upgrade to an awesome rod)
ARP main bolts, do bolts instead of studs so you dont need to line hone it.

do you run a electric water pump? why not just go single roller? if not I have had great luck with the cloyes factory replacement chain and gears.

You could also hold off on the ported intake, It wont gain you much and the 250 bucks could be spend else where. I mines not ported yet I do plan to eventually but right now its not where the biggest gains are.

95mysticta

iTrader: (4)

There is one thing I learned was not to cheap out on a shortblock if you intend to throw a lot its way. You could get away without going with forged rods but really for what it costs for the extra security just forge it and be done with it. Stock crank will take all you can throw at it. That's the only thing I would not cheap out on. If you got the extra cash stud the mains and it should be near bullet proof.

lethal bird

iTrader: (12)

^ that's sounds good. I don't run a ewp, and I plan running a single roller, I have to cause I have the single roller 24x setup.

lethal bird

iTrader: (12)

Yea after thinking about it I think I'm going with a standard bore forged build because I need to keep costs down.
Anybody got links to the rods and pistons?

F0x Slaughter

I prefer Callies Compstars.

The stock intake manifold has been proven to support 450hp.

lethal bird

iTrader: (12)

Anyone know the part number to stock sized forged rods and pistons?

355z28

iTrader: (8)

Im not down talking Compstar rods, I have their Hbeams in my 383. But for his or even my setup an H beam isnt needed. Ed Wright has been going 9's on that scat 7/16 rod. Doesnt make sense to spend 2x when the other is lighter and be more then what you need it to be.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SCA-26000716/

lethal bird

iTrader: (12)

^ a 6" is ok for stock rebuild? And what pistons?

WS Sick

Here is jegs price on a decent rod.

http://www.jegs.com/p/Scat/Scat-4340...40091/10002/-1

lethal bird

iTrader: (12)

Do I need to go with 5.7" or 6"?