Fuel pressure help
Fuel pressure help After getting my fuel pump replaced the guy who put it in said the prime pressure was at like 60 and idling was around 65-70. I know the stock pressure should be at 43 prime(?) and about the same idling. Tomorrow im goin to get ahold of a pressure gauge to confirm what its running at. After i got the car back it was alot more responsive but now my MPG taken a big hit. This isnt a DD car but 145-150 a tank isnt that great with rly just body work done lol. How would you adjust the fuel pressure if its too high? I read the computer controls the injectors but regulator controls to the rails. I prob miss read something so im still abit lost on how to get it to the right pressure needed. What would be some of the negatives of having high fuel pressure other then bad MPG.
PS iv only owned the car for a year so im still learning the ins and outs of the motor and car. Any help is much appreciated.
PS iv only owned the car for a year so im still learning the ins and outs of the motor and car. Any help is much appreciated.
If your fuel pressure is actually that high I would look for a kink or restriction in the return line first. If that checks out okay then replace the regulator with a STOCK one. Adjustables offer too much room for error and have been known to leak. Not a worthwhile "upgrade."
I got ahold of a pressure gauge and my prime hits about the 43-45 mark and at idle it sits at 35. When I rev it spikes to 43-45. So pressure is looking healthy. With that aside I can move down to what's causing my poor mileage. It went down after I got the new fuel pump and opti put in. My next guess would be o2 sensor.
Thanxs for the help and reply's guys.
Thanxs for the help and reply's guys.
Last edited by Blind898; Apr 1, 2012 at 07:03 PM.
Did you have new wires and plugs put in when you had the opti replaced? If so I would check to make sure the wires are not arcing, and maybe that the plugs are properly gapped. You can use a scanner and watch the o2 read outs to determine if they are faulty, but chances are it would throw a code if that was the case.
Did you have new wires and plugs put in when you had the opti replaced? If so I would check to make sure the wires are not arcing, and maybe that the plugs are properly gapped. You can use a scanner and watch the o2 read outs to determine if they are faulty, but chances are it would throw a code if that was the case.
I did not have the plugs and wires replaced but they were just replaced right when i got the car a year ago. Im not throwing any codes that im aware of atm but if i cruise in 5th or 6th gear for about a mile i do throw a code but when the car is shut off the code gos away. Cant find anyone with a obd1 scanner so im prob goin to buy one myself. The body of the car dos have 185k miles on it but i was told the motor had been rebuilt. I have no idea if the o2 sensors have been replaced but i was told that old ones can cause the car to run rich without throwing a code. Dos this sound right? I dont have a problem replacing them since im not sure if they ever had been. Or would cleaning them off first with carb cleaner be a better first option?
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When my o2's got lazy, I threw a code about 5 minutes after I started driving my car. I was getting code 13 - bank 1 heated oxygen sensor circuit (open circuit) and code 63 - bank 2 heated oxygen sensor circuit (open circuit). When I shut my car off the codes would go away, only to come back on the next time I drove my car. I would get a scanner and scan to make sure, but it sounds like the o2's so far.
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Brett Foote When my o2's got lazy, I threw a code about 5 minutes after I started driving my car. I was getting code 13 - bank 1 heated oxygen sensor circuit (open circuit) and code 63 - bank 2 heated oxygen sensor circuit (open circuit). When I shut my car off the codes would go away, only to come back on the next time I drove my car. I would get a scanner and scan to make sure, but it sounds like the o2's so far.
