I'm posting this at my own risk of showing my true ignorance when it comes to buying things off of ebay, so here goes nothing. The posing was for stainless steel long tube headers, with hardware for a buy it now price of $399.99. There were no bids on it and I picked them up for 289.99.......I did a little research and as far as I can tell 321 stainless steel is supposed to be good stuff, even when it's not ceramic coated (I dont drive in winter) I've been looking for ceramic coated headers for a while and the only stuff i can find is either 350+ for just the headers and no Y pipe or 400+ brand new w/y pipe. If nothing else, I guess this thread can be sort of a write up for how these ebay headers treat me and my car. I have always tried to stay away from ebay crap because well... its usually crap. I'll post some pics when I get them and let you guys know how the install goes and how they hold up over the summer. I'm hoping that this wont turn into just another reason to stay away from ebay for cheap parts like these, but if it does, then I guess if my mistake can help someone else make a better decision its not a total loss.

 

I believe they are the same ones somebody did an evaluation on awhile back and was pleased with the outcome

 

mine had to have the collector bent down an inch and a half, but the shop said it was as good as their kooks on the dyno and seemed pleased.

 

I just installed the ebay specials on mine (speeddaddy was ebay user name) and they required some modification, but look and sound great. I couldnt turn my steering wheel on the driver side even after grinding the block way down and had to take the header out and pound it in round around the shaft, also had to dent in the side of the collectors at the manifold in order to be able to fit the nuts in the head properly. It was a pita but the money saved was worth it. Get some good gaskets, and 02 extensions. I ended up buying some stainless header studs on ebay for around 60 bucks and they were well worth it. Also i'd do the motor mounts while you're there. Good luck!

 

The LT1's dont have that same annoying collector problem as the LS1. I remember I had to do that and grind some of my k-member away to get my LS1 headers in, picked them up for $120 so i wasn't about to complain lol

 

I NEVER buy junk for my car but after reading some good reviews and having enough with the jet hot headers, I tried the headers. They fit near perfectly but the air tubes leak and they're definitely NOT 1 3/4" headers. More like 1 5/8"

 

Cool! This is great to hear! I am still a little weary of the fitment on the car, I'm thinking of just having someone else put them on for me as I'm going to have a (now) full exhaust to put on the car and my friend says he's got a guy that will do it for cheap lol. I'm thinking with these headers, y pipe, 3" cut out, and an original 40 series muffler, my ride might sound as good as it looks . Thanks guys, I feel much better about buying these now.

 

What kind of hardware would you guys recommend? Also, what kind of maintenance am I looking at with these. I'm sure it's best to keep them clean to make them last as long as possible. I'm hoping that if I just jack up the car and polish them when I wash my car (about twice a week) they should stay pretty rust free? From the websites I found, they said that stainless steel will "rust" or pit unless it's like surgical grade, which I doubt these are....

 

id stay away from flowmaster, sounds good, flow sucks. wont get the most out of the system.

 

The more and more I read, I see that seems to be the general consensus around here. What can I get to make some more power? Should I just swap out the muffler or should I get a new system? They seem to be the same, I'm sure there arent many ways to route the exhaust around under there. I rrreeeeeaaaaallllllyyy like the sound of the flowmaster, thats all I've ever used in my ruststangs. With this beast I'm going to have the cutout that I'm planning on using if I'm going to be racing. Maybe the flowmaster would be good enough just to have to sound cool cruising around and when I'm ready to put the hammer down open up the cutout for more hp? Where do yall think I should put my cutout to get the most hp out of it? I was thinking a little past where the cat used to be?

 

I'm satisfied with my ebay stainless steel headers so far. The driver side seems kind of warped though.. Doesn't sit exactly flush; but no leaks yet. The car before had BBK shorties, stock Y-pipe, 2 cats, and a SLP LM 2 catback. Now it is the Ebay LT's, ebay y-pipe and my slp LM 2 catback and I can FEEL a power difference even without a dyno tune for it

 

This is just a question on your quote, Do you know this for a fact or just repeating what most say about Flowmasters..The reason I am asking is I used to have a 2 chamber Flowmaster, my car (95Z Forced Inducted) put down 648 RWHP, but the muffler was too dam loud for me on the highway, so I decided to install another Flowmaster but this was for an SUV, it was I believe a 4 chamber, it was very quiet and my car still made 648 RWHP, No loss what so ever. This told me that they must flow well if my car could make the same power on a loud 2 chamber vs a quiet 4 chamber..Now on another note, we had an LS1 car on the Dyno, usual heads cam ect, he had a spintech muffler, the car dynoed 402 RWHP, with no other changes, right on the dyno the mechanic installed a Dynomax muffler and the car layed down 425 RWHP..

 

You swapped a Flowmaster for another Flowmaster. Of course there wasn't a difference.

 

its funny how some things on ebay are awesome and others are crap. thats why you ask a question before you buy but that impuse to by it now does sometimes get the best of you! well hopefully you got a good deal!

 

Just to butt into your guy's convo...I have personally seen where the Flowmaster catbacks have hindered performance on 4th gen F-Body's. But...this is with their 80 series crossflow muffler that is used on just the f-body catbacks. To my personal understanding Flowmaster mufflers generally flow decently well especially the single chambers but it is the 80 series crossflow muffler that is the weak link.

 

Are there any threads with some actual dyno numbers of different mufflers on the same setup?

 

https://ls1tech.com/forums/dynamomet...-bolt-ons.html

same headers man I love them, just dynoed last week since then got it tuned and 1.6 rocker arms and replaced bad lifter

 

Well, back from the dead. I wanted to give an update. It only took me 10 months to finally get around to installing them and all I can say is awesome! I think the seller is eworldsales or something close to that. I would recommend using the gaskets and bolts that come with the kit. I tried using the percys split lock bolts but I couldnt get the 12pt wrench around some of the bolts. They look great and sound awesome. Before the install I could light the tires a little bit in first gear, but now it's MUCH easier (It is colder out too...). It would be worth it just for that stailness steel sound, it puts a big **** eating grin on my face every time I start it haha. The install was no cakewalk, but it didnt seem any tougher than any others that I read about. I was very surprised that the Y pipe even had a flattened out spot for clearance issues, so it seems that someone put forth at least some effort into making these things. So far, I would recommend them 110% the price was insane! Here is a video of the open headers http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MU72OVeNA2s. It sounds better with the Y pipe on though... Everything was slip fit as well so it made it pretty easy to put everything up until I could get it to an exhaust shop.

 

very nice!

I think the Eworldsales was the good one to buy from and now they no longer have headers. As far as i know you got the last of the good ones. LPP/Kooks knockoffs i beleive?

 

great... I was just about to ask where you guys were getting the ones with the first primary, drivers side kicked up over the other two... the ones on ebay now all have that first primary going around, therefore hitting the steering shaft...