Clutch Engagement Issue
TECH Regular
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 492
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From: Rochester, NY
I know i'm running out of ideas myself. I've come to terms with the syncros for 3rd possibly going bad, but reverse was working great. Would a little bit of air in the system allow all gears to engage smoothly except 3rd and reverse? I don't know a whole lot at all about this style trans. It is an oem clutch, I wish i would've upgraded to something else though. I haven't driven the car since Sunday when I took it out for a test ride, but it went into all gears except 3rd... i could shift through the gate into 3rd but when i would try to let pressure of the clutch pedal it would kick it out of that gear.
However, if the problem isn't dramatic (as in the clutch is only slightly dragging, and coming very, very close to completely disengaging), then just your weakest links will be exposed. In your case, that could mean that the synchros or other parts associated with 3rd and reverse are worn out more than the other gears.
One more thing to add-- if you're able to move the shifter completely into 3rd or any gear, and once the clutch is released you get a grind and spit out, that's a tranny problem.
TECH Veteran
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 4,985
Likes: 112
OP
regarding reverse, do you have reverse lock out wired/working?
is the shifter new? (if so did you set the stops on it before install?
bleeding...well the LT1 system is "sealed" from factory and you have opened it so bleeding it can be tough. you need to confirm MC piston is all the way out (pedal is not resting on it). wire/tie it up so the MC piston is fully out and allow air to full bleed from it.
While I have opened and successfully bleed these things before it took a LONG time pumping by hand from bottom. "other" people have had final success in using a Mighty Vac from up top. IMHO I never got 100% of the air out when I first installed my auto to T56 swap. I finally went with a new unit and did not open it to install. Been fine for 7 years now.
If your T56 is unknown history 3rd syncro could be worn which is showing up as hard to get in that gear due to still air in the hydraulics not allowing the clutch to fully disengage.
with the car on stands, running, in 2nd gear, clutch pushed in all the way..do the rear wheels still spin?...they should not.
regarding reverse, do you have reverse lock out wired/working?
is the shifter new? (if so did you set the stops on it before install?
bleeding...well the LT1 system is "sealed" from factory and you have opened it so bleeding it can be tough. you need to confirm MC piston is all the way out (pedal is not resting on it). wire/tie it up so the MC piston is fully out and allow air to full bleed from it.
While I have opened and successfully bleed these things before it took a LONG time pumping by hand from bottom. "other" people have had final success in using a Mighty Vac from up top. IMHO I never got 100% of the air out when I first installed my auto to T56 swap. I finally went with a new unit and did not open it to install. Been fine for 7 years now.
If your T56 is unknown history 3rd syncro could be worn which is showing up as hard to get in that gear due to still air in the hydraulics not allowing the clutch to fully disengage.
with the car on stands, running, in 2nd gear, clutch pushed in all the way..do the rear wheels still spin?...they should not.
Sorry, forgot to reply to that issue... reverse lock out is wired and working to the best of my knowledge. The shifter is new its a hurst billet plus (wish i would've gone with the pro 5.0), i did set the stops before install but after i had issues with it not going into any gear before the master cylinder swap i backed both of them all the way out. I have bled the system, but I did notice earlier today that the pedal feels good till you close to the end of its throw then it feels like its got an extra step...kind of weird feeling. It may be possible that some more bleeding is in my future. I haven't checked to see if the wheels spin with the clutch pedal pushed in on jack stands, may have to try that as well.
TECH Regular
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 492
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From: Rochester, NY
Its pretty easy to tell if your reverse lock solenoid is working-- know how you have to push the shifter to the right, past the 5-6 row, and then forward to get into reverse?
If the solenoid isn't working, it will be very difficult to push the shifter to the right once you try to pass the 5-6 row, but when you manage to get it all the way to the right it will push forward into gear very easily.
The solenoid mounts right under the shifter on the drivers side of the transmission. All it does is prevent movement to the right of the 5-6 row when the computer tells it to do so. It doesn't make forward movement with the shifter any more difficult.
If the solenoid isn't working, it will be very difficult to push the shifter to the right once you try to pass the 5-6 row, but when you manage to get it all the way to the right it will push forward into gear very easily.
The solenoid mounts right under the shifter on the drivers side of the transmission. All it does is prevent movement to the right of the 5-6 row when the computer tells it to do so. It doesn't make forward movement with the shifter any more difficult.
While the car is off then it should be difficult to get past 5-6 to reverse but easy forward into gear, and while the car is running it should be easy to go past 5-6 and easy forward into gear?
TECH Veteran
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 4,985
Likes: 112
My car is a auto to stick conversion and not a F body so I have it wired to brake pedal.
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Verdad Gallardo TECH Regular
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 492
Likes: 0
From: Rochester, NY
Yea sorry about that-- after re-reading, I didn't make myself very clear. I meant to do that little test while the car is stopped but the engine is idling.
If I recall correctly, when the solenoid is energized then reverse is unlocked. When the solenoid is off, you're locked out of reverse. This is why when the car is turned off, you can get into every gear but reverse. The solenoid's coil is de-energized, locking you out.
If I recall correctly, when the solenoid is energized then reverse is unlocked. When the solenoid is off, you're locked out of reverse. This is why when the car is turned off, you can get into every gear but reverse. The solenoid's coil is de-energized, locking you out.
If possible, have another person eyeball the reservoir as you push on the slave cylinder to see if they can spot any air in the line.
Right, I understood what you meant tbag skywalker... That's what we did last time to bleed it, ss rrr, but i will be attempting to bleed it again this weekend even more than before. maybe theres some air trapped somewhere still
