RamAir95TA

iTrader: (2)

It runs terrific. There's no cam surge at all, thanks to the tune/tuner. Plenty of vac for brakes. I wouldn't hesitate to DD it, considering I drive 45 miles to the track, run the **** out of it, then drive 45 miles back without a problem.

3DFORMULA

iTrader: (4)

10k budget---forget building one
https://ls1tech.com/forums/vehicle-c...ded-10-5k.html

speed_demon24

iTrader: (6)

Ported heads and a stock cam work fine. I have no idea where the idea that there would be no gains came from. I guess chevy was stupid going from ls1 heads to ls6 heads and now LS3 heads.

Hell there was a guy who made 430rwhp on a stock cam with ported heads on his ls1 gto a couple years ago.

afterburner82

iTrader: (2)

I like the way you think, but I already have everything built except the motor.

Any thoughts on rotating assembly? Given that I want to run on pump gas (93 octane is plentiful around here) and leaning more towards ported stock AI heads: RamAirTA95 or anyone know what the inlet valve closes ABDC is for the AI cam he mentions previously (237/242, .604"/.598")? Was trying to see what the DCR would be on an 11.8:1 CR rotating assembly.

Should I stick with the stock oil pump and use and get a white spring?

I am guessing I should also swap the oil pump driveshaft and gear as well.

Any other considerations I should make?

RamAir95TA

iTrader: (2)

The rotating assembly is something most people can agree on. Just avoid anything cast - forge everything. I am personally using a forged Ohio crank, forged Scat 6" rods and forged JE pistons.

Can't find my cam card to find the ABDC, but whatever it is there's no problem with my combo with running 93 octane. It's all in the tune so no sweat there.

Stock oil pump with a white spring would be fine, but I'm a fan of the Melling 10554. It's a more robust casting, high pressure standard volume. Fortunately it comes with a new hardened oil pump driveshaft that eliminated the plastic coupler.

lt1-xjs

I have to agree with this, no gains from port work is nonsense. Just a good multi-angle valvejob is worth power. A set of ported heads should net a good 20-30 hp on a stock motor.

afterburner82

iTrader: (2)

More questions I know:

Do I need the composite gear and drive I guess is what I am asking. Here is an image I found on here:

http://i1110.photobucket.com/albums/...T1parts014.jpg

Did you go with a different oil pan and anything else like a crank scraper?

What is everyone's take on a fully balanced kit (Crank, rods, pistons, rings and bearings) or should I pick specific stuff and get it balanced? Probably has to be rebalanced anyway with the flywheel, but I thought I would ask.

What about an ATI or a Fluiddampr?

RamAir95TA

iTrader: (2)

The link you provided is broken.

AI provides each cam with an Everwear drive gear.

I used the Canton 242T oil pan. Nothing fancy.

I like to piece together a kit and have the machine shop do the balancing. That way all your eggs are in one basket.

I used an ATI balancer, but the Fluiddampr will work just fine as well.

I am still not totally convinced that porting stock heads on an otherwise stock engine will provide the same horsepower as a mild cam on a stock engine. You simply just don't see it happen.

afterburner82

iTrader: (2)

Another quick question about the ATI: Did you re-use the stock hub or buy the ATI hub? Putting together the list and pricing things out.