Low Oil Pressure After Seafoam?
01-17-2017, 04:58 AM
#22
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This is my personal two cents.
Nothing goes in the motor but oil, PERIOD END OF STORY. This includes cleaners, additives, whatever. Depending on the "health" of the main, rod and cam bearings and journals, you roll the dice of possibly wiping them out and opening up bearing clearances which would result in lower oil pressure and put you a big step closer to having to pull the motor for a rebuild. In others words, get that **** out now.
The best way to cleanse the inside of a dirty motor, is to do multiple and frequent oil changes and let the new oil do the work as opposed to foreign chemicals. I dont care what Seafoam or whoever says about using chemicals in the order to clean motors, DONT DO IT.
I actually do like Seafoam put only down the intake in proper volumes in order to clean the valves, combustion chambers and piston tops. Even after I do this, I always immediately change the oil cause some of it may leak past the rings and into the oil.
I really hope you have not wiped out your bearings. but in the unfortunate case that you might have, be prepared for a possible rebuild.
Nothing goes in the motor but oil, PERIOD END OF STORY. This includes cleaners, additives, whatever. Depending on the "health" of the main, rod and cam bearings and journals, you roll the dice of possibly wiping them out and opening up bearing clearances which would result in lower oil pressure and put you a big step closer to having to pull the motor for a rebuild. In others words, get that **** out now.
The best way to cleanse the inside of a dirty motor, is to do multiple and frequent oil changes and let the new oil do the work as opposed to foreign chemicals. I dont care what Seafoam or whoever says about using chemicals in the order to clean motors, DONT DO IT.
I actually do like Seafoam put only down the intake in proper volumes in order to clean the valves, combustion chambers and piston tops. Even after I do this, I always immediately change the oil cause some of it may leak past the rings and into the oil.
I really hope you have not wiped out your bearings. but in the unfortunate case that you might have, be prepared for a possible rebuild.
However, "cleansing" is misleading since it does not get rid of the deposits, it melts sludge and deposits and, combined with any healthy oil, serves to suspend those particles in this solution so that they do not re-adhere to the engine walls or cause inconsistent lubrication before your next oil change.
The problem with Seafoam is not in its chemical make-up. It doesn't hurt seals. It doesn't separate oil, it thins it - Chemically it's only about as different as skim milk and heavy cream. If there is an uncomfortable lot of sludge, then I would venture a guess that this engine has been mistreated with infrequent oil maintenance and is bound to have the kind of solidified carbon you clean from the combustion chambers. How? It has been burnt to essentially ashes and while PURE seafoam could disassemble that load, it is not PURE but diluted with oil when added to an engine, as is necessary since seafoam wouldn't be thick enough to keep things running smoothly on its own. Soooo... Yes, it is possible to clog the oil pump/screen if your engine oil was frequently overdue for maintenance before it got a dose of seafoam. If you see black stuff on your dipstick or in the pan or around the inside of your oil cap...It needs to be changed. A first treatment with Seafoam should only be attempted with new oil, and a max of 100 miles before it's "rinsed" with new oil again.
Another problem people run into with Seafoam that can be misleading is what happens when you have coolant mixing into your oil. Some people think it's no big deal, they'll just keep adding coolant and fix that cracked head or leaky gasket or mischievous engine gnome after their next tax refund comes... But whatever caused it-gasket or gremlin- it's not going to go over well with the seafoam and those high temperatures... Obviously, since you can probably already see what's happening to this ill mixture in the foamy mayonnaise around the cap or on the dipstick. Seafoam will just make it worse because it doses not break coolant down into conveniently suspended particles. In fact, coolant acts as one of those awful detergents that keeps things separated and chunky and it's a holy awful mess! It doesn't go in there! So get that issue fixed before horrible things happen to optimistic people. If you must seafoam a coolant ridden engine, then be prepared to do an oil change again and again. Seriously. One to start with, then your seafoam, give it one day on no more than fifty miles, change oil, repeat seafoam treatment, then up to one week with no more than 100 miles And then... You guessed it... Change oil AGAIN. If it's still quite black or chunky... You can repeat the process if you're feeling lucky despite the evidence or buy some stop leak if, like me-you've got mouths to feed.
Bottom line, Seafoam does not clog stuff up or destroy seals or contain alcohol or voodoo. It's amazing stuff, but it can't perform miracles. As with any tool, it's very handy and safe to use with the right information, and NOTHING compares with its convenience... Just make sure you know what's going on in your engine -as in history and be honest with your expectations. It's going to take more than a one-and-done to undo what happens after Years of less than minimum maintenance.
01-07-2019, 08:14 PM
#23
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Thank you for "two cents" First, I apologize for being new and replying to such an old post. Second, I agree 100% that you should never put detergents in your engine oil. It seems common sense that the last thing you would want whisking through such a greedily KY-ed mechanism is any kind of degreaser. That being said, Seafoam is not a detergent, nor does it have any detergent mixed in. It is a petroleum oil based product, in other words-it's made from the exact same thing as good old fashioned engine oil. Your suggestion of frequent oil changes to cleanse an engine should go without saying where common sense reigns, as well. Seafoam does the work of ten oil changes, towards the exact same purpose. Since instead of the typical 5w or 10w, it's more like adding a few ounces of .05w, it commands a higher heat, which is why it works so well in your combustion chambers, and makes a quick and relatively simple job of "cleansing" an engine.
However, "cleansing" is misleading since it does not get rid of the deposits, it melts sludge and deposits and, combined with any healthy oil, serves to suspend those particles in this solution so that they do not re-adhere to the engine walls or cause inconsistent lubrication before your next oil change.
The problem with Seafoam is not in its chemical make-up. It doesn't hurt seals. It doesn't separate oil, it thins it - Chemically it's only about as different as skim milk and heavy cream. If there is an uncomfortable lot of sludge, then I would venture a guess that this engine has been mistreated with infrequent oil maintenance and is bound to have the kind of solidified carbon you clean from the combustion chambers. How? It has been burnt to essentially ashes and while PURE seafoam could disassemble that load, it is not PURE but diluted with oil when added to an engine, as is necessary since seafoam wouldn't be thick enough to keep things running smoothly on its own. Soooo... Yes, it is possible to clog the oil pump/screen if your engine oil was frequently overdue for maintenance before it got a dose of seafoam. If you see black stuff on your dipstick or in the pan or around the inside of your oil cap...It needs to be changed. A first treatment with Seafoam should only be attempted with new oil, and a max of 100 miles before it's "rinsed" with new oil again.
Another problem people run into with Seafoam that can be misleading is what happens when you have coolant mixing into your oil. Some people think it's no big deal, they'll just keep adding coolant and fix that cracked head or leaky gasket or mischievous engine gnome after their next tax refund comes... But whatever caused it-gasket or gremlin- it's not going to go over well with the seafoam and those high temperatures... Obviously, since you can probably already see what's happening to this ill mixture in the foamy mayonnaise around the cap or on the dipstick. Seafoam will just make it worse because it doses not break coolant down into conveniently suspended particles. In fact, coolant acts as one of those awful detergents that keeps things separated and chunky and it's a holy awful mess! It doesn't go in there! So get that issue fixed before horrible things happen to optimistic people. If you must seafoam a coolant ridden engine, then be prepared to do an oil change again and again. Seriously. One to start with, then your seafoam, give it one day on no more than fifty miles, change oil, repeat seafoam treatment, then up to one week with no more than 100 miles And then... You guessed it... Change oil AGAIN. If it's still quite black or chunky... You can repeat the process if you're feeling lucky despite the evidence or buy some stop leak if, like me-you've got mouths to feed.
Bottom line, Seafoam does not clog stuff up or destroy seals or contain alcohol or voodoo. It's amazing stuff, but it can't perform miracles. As with any tool, it's very handy and safe to use with the right information, and NOTHING compares with its convenience... Just make sure you know what's going on in your engine -as in history and be honest with your expectations. It's going to take more than a one-and-done to undo what happens after Years of less than minimum maintenance.
However, "cleansing" is misleading since it does not get rid of the deposits, it melts sludge and deposits and, combined with any healthy oil, serves to suspend those particles in this solution so that they do not re-adhere to the engine walls or cause inconsistent lubrication before your next oil change.
The problem with Seafoam is not in its chemical make-up. It doesn't hurt seals. It doesn't separate oil, it thins it - Chemically it's only about as different as skim milk and heavy cream. If there is an uncomfortable lot of sludge, then I would venture a guess that this engine has been mistreated with infrequent oil maintenance and is bound to have the kind of solidified carbon you clean from the combustion chambers. How? It has been burnt to essentially ashes and while PURE seafoam could disassemble that load, it is not PURE but diluted with oil when added to an engine, as is necessary since seafoam wouldn't be thick enough to keep things running smoothly on its own. Soooo... Yes, it is possible to clog the oil pump/screen if your engine oil was frequently overdue for maintenance before it got a dose of seafoam. If you see black stuff on your dipstick or in the pan or around the inside of your oil cap...It needs to be changed. A first treatment with Seafoam should only be attempted with new oil, and a max of 100 miles before it's "rinsed" with new oil again.
Another problem people run into with Seafoam that can be misleading is what happens when you have coolant mixing into your oil. Some people think it's no big deal, they'll just keep adding coolant and fix that cracked head or leaky gasket or mischievous engine gnome after their next tax refund comes... But whatever caused it-gasket or gremlin- it's not going to go over well with the seafoam and those high temperatures... Obviously, since you can probably already see what's happening to this ill mixture in the foamy mayonnaise around the cap or on the dipstick. Seafoam will just make it worse because it doses not break coolant down into conveniently suspended particles. In fact, coolant acts as one of those awful detergents that keeps things separated and chunky and it's a holy awful mess! It doesn't go in there! So get that issue fixed before horrible things happen to optimistic people. If you must seafoam a coolant ridden engine, then be prepared to do an oil change again and again. Seriously. One to start with, then your seafoam, give it one day on no more than fifty miles, change oil, repeat seafoam treatment, then up to one week with no more than 100 miles And then... You guessed it... Change oil AGAIN. If it's still quite black or chunky... You can repeat the process if you're feeling lucky despite the evidence or buy some stop leak if, like me-you've got mouths to feed.
Bottom line, Seafoam does not clog stuff up or destroy seals or contain alcohol or voodoo. It's amazing stuff, but it can't perform miracles. As with any tool, it's very handy and safe to use with the right information, and NOTHING compares with its convenience... Just make sure you know what's going on in your engine -as in history and be honest with your expectations. It's going to take more than a one-and-done to undo what happens after Years of less than minimum maintenance.
