Jason94z

iTrader: (3)

I just did mine this weekend. Easy if you are patient. I have all the pics at the end of page two here https://ls1tech.com/forums/lt1-lt4-m...-one-best.html

It will take all day or two days depending how good you are. I'm slow.
It's not that bad. Once everything is out clean the head and front and rear block areas. Then clean them again. And again. Then use scotch right pads or sand paper on the block to really make sure they are clean. And brake cleaner on a rag, wipe it all down a few times.

I put a cloth on the heads and practiced 5-6 times placing the intake on until I got it just right. I kept hitting the oil pressure sender at the back of the block until I practiced enough so, I ended up placing the rear of the intake on it on purpose, so it wouldn't touch the rear bead of silicone, until I lined up the front bolt holes which let the rear carefully slide off the oil pressure sender controllably down. Once you practice a few times this will make sense.

Then I put the beads of rtv on the front and rear, and also put just a tiny dab of rtv on the heads in the middle to stick the gaskets on. Do not rtv close to the intake ports, rtv doesn't like gas. Then I waited 10 mins and then plopped it on. First torqu was just finger tight with the socket, then snug just with hand right at the socket handle, and hour later snugged hand tight. The next day I torqued to 20 then tried 35 and I think 35 is too much. I may have stripped one front bolt I stopped right away. I would in the future not use a torque wrench on intake bolts they are too fragile IMHO.

See my picks at the end here: https://ls1tech.com/forums/lt1-lt4-m...-one-best.html

Good luck! Ask any questions I will try to answer.

spudnick3119

Just take your time doing it. Its not hard, but make sure you label all of the connections/ports as it can be confusing the first time putting it all back together. Relieve the pressure in the fuel system before you start. Disconnecting the fuel lines is also tricky at first, hopefully you have a good disconnect tool.

There's no need to dimple or do anything fancy with the surfaces, just use a good razor blade and brake cleaner/alcohol to get everything clean. Definitely use a torque wrench and make two passes on the bolts with a final torque of 35ft/lb. Don't forget to recheck them after a few heat cycles, they will back out and will need to be rechecked for proper torque.

BALLSS

just did mine yesterday and will start the car today after letting RTV sit overnight

TQ to 71 in lb first pass and then 35 ft lbs 2nd pass. there is a TQ order shown in FSM or Haynes service book. Basically starting on inside and working x pattern towards ends

took my time but did it in a afternoon. most of the time is spent cleaning everything. Spent time cleaning manifold, TB and IAC valve passage.

use FelPro "pinto" aka blue seal gaskets

after scraping off old RTV use steel wool on all mating surfaces then wipe multiple times with acetone. good idea to put rag or paper towels in open motor so debris does not fall in while cleaning. chase out bolt holes in heads, clean manifold bolts and use thread sealer on them.

SS RRR

iTrader: (2)

Only thing you need to keep in order are the intake bolts/studs. There is one stud that is significantly longer than the other studs. That is the one for the alternator. The others are for the coolant return pipe that runs along the pass. side of the intake manifold and the drivers side there is another for the EGR solenoid. Can't remember if there are any others designated... All the sensor plugs are exclusive and will only plug into their prospective sensors. Your injector plugs should have the cylinder number printed on them.

jamin

thanks guys, keep the great info coming plan on tackling this in bit with me neighbor's help, rains holding us up

SS RRR

iTrader: (2)

I made this video for ***** to show how you can easily take an intake manifold off that is stuck.
http://youtu.be/dKWfPQ9AKv0
Camera ran out of memory before it was done, but you get the idea...

Jason94z

iTrader: (3)

Even easier and safer - put a long pole or pipe or baseball bat inside the intake's TB holes (Tb off already of course) and pop it off that way. No pry-bar marks then

SS RRR

iTrader: (2)

Using a quality pry bar there are no pry marks. The only time pry marks become an issue is if the wedge of the pry bar is distorted or lifting the intake before it breaks loose.

BTC

The service manual calls for a case of beer, but I would double it just to be safe.

jamin

Well guys, finally got around to doing this putting it all back together now, does anyone have any high res pics of a all stock motor? trying to figure out where a few things go


sam

SS RRR

iTrader: (2)

Like?

www.shbox.com may be of some help.

jamin

thanks

grazi

Subscribing...In the process of doing intake gaskets, too..

grazi

Good call on that. I wouldnt of recognized the longer stud until it was probably too late

jamin

need a good picture of right front of motor, not finding excactly what I want on that site

SS RRR

iTrader: (2)

Why not just spill what it is you are looking for. Plenty of members here have done this and could easily help you.

jamin

LOL because I don't know what the f it is LOL theres some tibes that i cant remember what there from, one has a blue thing on it, thats the best I can tell ya LOL its to dark to snap a pic now

guppymech

iTrader: (7)

If it's a small dia rubber tube it's probably for the optispark vent. one goes to the intake elbow the other one goes on a nipple on the drivers side of the intake manifold. Shbox should have a pic.
http://shbox.com/1/opti_vacuum_conn.jpg
http://shbox.com/1/opti_vacuum_hose.jpg

jamin

got them, theres another blue thingy that goes into a plastic elbow

guppymech

iTrader: (7)

How 'bout this one:
http://shbox.com/1/opti_vacuum_harness.jpg