Guys with ARP wheel studs come in please.
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From: Nebraska
Guys with ARP wheel studs come in please. My buddy just bought 17x9 and 17x11 ZR1 replicas for his 94 Z28 and he ended up using 5/16" spaces and a hammer to get his 335's to fit. Well I knew right away he would need studs because there was definitely not enough thread left to bolt them on safely.
I made him buy ARP wheel studs and they should be here this week. My question is, is it better to pull the axles and press them in or can we get away with popping the old ones out with the axles in and suck them in with a lug nut?
I don't want to do that because it just seems sketchy to me but my other friend who works at a tire shop says he does it all the time....
Thoughts on this?
Thanks
I made him buy ARP wheel studs and they should be here this week. My question is, is it better to pull the axles and press them in or can we get away with popping the old ones out with the axles in and suck them in with a lug nut?
I don't want to do that because it just seems sketchy to me but my other friend who works at a tire shop says he does it all the time....
Thoughts on this?
Thanks
Pulling stock replacement (dorman) studs through with the lug nuts is fine. The knurled area on ARP studs is larger and takes more force to install them in the axles. I've read where people messed up their new ARP studs by pulling them through with lug nuts. When I installed my ARP #100-7708 studs I drove them in from the back with a hammer and a socket, they were tight in the holes! If you had access to a press that would probably be the best way. .
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From: Nebraska
it's the stock rear so yeah i'm not sure if there is enough room for the longer studs to be put in with the axles in.
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Joined: Aug 2008
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From: Nebraska
Pulling stock replacement (dorman) studs through with the lug nuts is fine. The knurled area on ARP studs is larger and takes more force to install them in the axles. I've read where people messed up their new ARP studs by pulling them through with lug nuts. When I installed my ARP #100-7708 studs I drove them in from the back with a hammer and a socket, they were tight in the holes! If you had access to a press that would probably be the best way. .
Not sure what year GM made the change where there is the hole in the backing plate.
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The car in question is a 94 though, I don't remember seeing any hole in the backing plate on my 94. I remember this being the reason I didn't do the wheel studs til several years later, when I finally actually needed them.
Not sure what year GM made the change where there is the hole in the backing plate.
Not sure what year GM made the change where there is the hole in the backing plate.
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From: Nebraska
Pressing them in is always better. Look at it this way: You can do a fluid change and axle bearings and seals too-it's not like the parts are expensive.
If you wanna try the pull 'em through with a nut method, use a spacer on the axle flange and a grade 8/10.9 or better hex nut, not a lug nut on the wheel. Most lug nuts are ****. Lube it up good-including the nut face and washer. You'll need to eat your spinach and Wheaties.
If you wanna try the pull 'em through with a nut method, use a spacer on the axle flange and a grade 8/10.9 or better hex nut, not a lug nut on the wheel. Most lug nuts are ****. Lube it up good-including the nut face and washer. You'll need to eat your spinach and Wheaties.
I did it with axles in the rear still. Used an old shank lug and washers. Worked real well except on a few of them I bent a couple threads because I was using a breaker bar and then a torque wrench for the final pass and used the surrounding studs as leverage. Luckily I am able to pass lug nuts without a problem on them.
+1 on spinach and wheaties if you do it this route.
+1 on spinach and wheaties if you do it this route.
Do not pull them through, i stripped 2 arp studs this way. The threads arent designed to have that pressure on them. The car was down for an additional 2 days because i was too lazy to simply pull axles
