Engine oil recommended by builder 20w50
Engine oil recommended by builder 20w50 When I first had my motor built I filled it up and noticed oil pressure was low. Called the builder and he said "oh yeah use 20w50 it's got racing clearances."
I've been running 20w50 ever since but now am questioning it. The builder is not around anymore - this was like 7 years ago. Could I do a test or just keep running th 20w50?
How could I verify the oil required? Is there a way?
Anyone else have a looser engine that takes 20w50?
I've been running 20w50 ever since but now am questioning it. The builder is not around anymore - this was like 7 years ago. Could I do a test or just keep running th 20w50?
How could I verify the oil required? Is there a way?
Anyone else have a looser engine that takes 20w50?
I would question the long term reliability of the stock oilpump drive on the street with that weight oil. How many miles have you put on it? Have you already swapped the intake? If not I would look at the drive while it is accessible.
Maybe you could try a middle ground like a 15w-40 and have a Used Oil Analysis done? There are usually local places that can do it as it is common with fleet vehicles and diesel stuff with big sumps(expensive to change gallons if the oil is still fine) but on the internet Blackstone Labs is popular.
Maybe you could try a middle ground like a 15w-40 and have a Used Oil Analysis done? There are usually local places that can do it as it is common with fleet vehicles and diesel stuff with big sumps(expensive to change gallons if the oil is still fine) but on the internet Blackstone Labs is popular.
I've been using that too.
I just wondered ... if I really need that heavy an oil. Maybe I"ll try one step down like 96capricemgr suggests. I already bought my oil for this change.
Also another question: how many litres does the LT1 take? I have a windage tray and am now questioning whether the angle of the dip stick is correct. So I'd love to fill it with how much it's "supposed" to have, and then check the dipstick and see where it reads.
When I was young I didn't care. Now that I'm bringing this car back out of storage new questions need answering.
I just wondered ... if I really need that heavy an oil. Maybe I"ll try one step down like 96capricemgr suggests. I already bought my oil for this change.
Also another question: how many litres does the LT1 take? I have a windage tray and am now questioning whether the angle of the dip stick is correct. So I'd love to fill it with how much it's "supposed" to have, and then check the dipstick and see where it reads.
When I was young I didn't care. Now that I'm bringing this car back out of storage new questions need answering.
I would question the long term reliability of the stock oilpump drive on the street with that weight oil. How many miles have you put on it? Have you already swapped the intake? If not I would look at the drive while it is accessible.
Maybe you could try a middle ground like a 15w-40 and have a Used Oil Analysis done? There are usually local places that can do it as it is common with fleet vehicles and diesel stuff with big sumps(expensive to change gallons if the oil is still fine) but on the internet Blackstone Labs is popular.
Maybe you could try a middle ground like a 15w-40 and have a Used Oil Analysis done? There are usually local places that can do it as it is common with fleet vehicles and diesel stuff with big sumps(expensive to change gallons if the oil is still fine) but on the internet Blackstone Labs is popular.
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"wider" bearing clearances are often done on "performance" rebuilds. 20-50 is spec for those motors. 10-40 could be a step down if you wanted to try that. If the builder spec 20-50 he did so because he set up the bearing clearances wider
often oil pump drive gear will wear IF the person put in a HV oil pump AND does NOT have wider bearing clearances. pump/gear is strained by trying to push thick oil through stock bearing clearances.
often wider bearing clearances + HV pump + thicker 20-50 oil.
Porsche has done this for years on the 911
often oil pump drive gear will wear IF the person put in a HV oil pump AND does NOT have wider bearing clearances. pump/gear is strained by trying to push thick oil through stock bearing clearances.
often wider bearing clearances + HV pump + thicker 20-50 oil.
Porsche has done this for years on the 911
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Verdad Gallardo Just since it seems to have been missed in my post yes you can have used oil tested to see how it is actually working. I suggested doing that with switching to a 40weight oil. Since you don't know for sure what the clearances are I just think it prudent to verify how an oil is working. Tests are generally only $20-25.
IMO it is inappropriate to setup a modest street build for 20w-50, too much load on the drive, goes into bypass reducing cooling volume across the bearings at a lower rpm. There is just no reason for it.
For wilder engines seeing more load maybe it is appropriate, or as noted in another thread it can be used to firm up hydraulic lofters.
I have run 20w-50 for a short time when trying to figure out an oiling issue, in the end I put a different windage tray in and a pan baffle since it was only $5 and went back to Xw-30 oils and all was good. I think part of the "issue" though was the spot I was using for a street test area was a slightly uphill and curved rural highway onramp. The current acceleration rates of the car combined with the grade and lateral force seemed to combined to cause the trouble. I hadn't seen the high rpm pressure drop on level ground but an aftermarket tray and pan baffle was all of $30.
IMO it is inappropriate to setup a modest street build for 20w-50, too much load on the drive, goes into bypass reducing cooling volume across the bearings at a lower rpm. There is just no reason for it.
For wilder engines seeing more load maybe it is appropriate, or as noted in another thread it can be used to firm up hydraulic lofters.
I have run 20w-50 for a short time when trying to figure out an oiling issue, in the end I put a different windage tray in and a pan baffle since it was only $5 and went back to Xw-30 oils and all was good. I think part of the "issue" though was the spot I was using for a street test area was a slightly uphill and curved rural highway onramp. The current acceleration rates of the car combined with the grade and lateral force seemed to combined to cause the trouble. I hadn't seen the high rpm pressure drop on level ground but an aftermarket tray and pan baffle was all of $30.
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From: Kingfisher Oklahoma
I allways wonder why people put wide clearances on a street motor as well. Sure it makes the motor use a few less HP to turn the crank, but then you put in a thicker oil and youre back at square one.
My builder suggested VR1 20w-50 for break in but after that I wanted to go synthetic. The closest synth I could find was Mobil 1 15w-50 and he said that's a great oil to use. He said 10w40 would be okay too if I ever wanted to.
Your stroker makes decent power if it were a cam only setup, the average heads/cam setup is much more powerful.
IMO some volume internet engine builders spec excessively thick oil so they can just build every quickly and sloppily, if the clearance tolerances are loose and you give it thick oil variations in tolerance are less likely to eat a bearing or such.
Building an engine with clearances for 5w-30 is a bit less forgiving, you have a tapered journal and happen to measure the small spot the high side eats the bearing. It requires more attention to detail and TIME to build a tighter clearance motor.
There is evidence to suggest the internets highest volume LT1 vendor uses power tools to assemble the rotating assembly, and a lot of evidence to suggest they don't inspect much before slapping it together.
Thanks. I'm putting fresh 20w50 in cause that's what I already bought. Next time I might try 40 but first I'll pay attention to the the pressure gauge is with the 50 so I can compare.
My builder spec'd 20w-50 synthetic for mine, and I've been beating the hell out of it for 2 years running it. VR1 is very thick, I noticed it took way too long for the oil pressure to come up. Switched to Amsoil 20W-50 and it pumps up nicely.
When I worked at the Suzuki dealership in south texas , they came with 40 weight & the area tech rep said we could run 20w50 yr round in south tx If youve been runnin 20w50 run it Or run the 15w50 mobil 20w50 amsoil is also good IF you have harsh winters & drive it Then run a 40 weight Ive known of a few crazy ******* run 20w50 in Indiana winters & their trucks never had a problem LoL I wouldnt do it & dont recommend it but just givin some info My new motor will get 15w50 or 20w50
Why do you feel you need to change weights of oil after this many years? Makes no sence to me. Most all stroker builds use 20 w 50. Not like price is that much different so wh the change?
I just feel bad slopping around that heavy oil and think I could make more power with lighter stuff. I guess with the windage tray it doesn't really matter much.