LT1-LT4 Modifications 1993-97 Gen II Small Block V8

High RPM Miss I've had for years that I can't figure out

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Old 05-02-2012, 11:33 PM
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http://www.summitracing.com/search/Y...?Ns=Rank%7cAsc

yes no maybe so. i hope this helps. I'm having the same problem, I'm going to swap out the ignition coil and see if it helps
Old 05-02-2012, 11:47 PM
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Ive actually had bad luck with Moroso's wires. Someone else in this thread said they had bad luck with MSD's wires, I haven't.
Old 05-03-2012, 02:39 AM
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I'm with some others that have mentioned to look at the opti sprark. If you have tried different plugs, coils, and wires my bet is the opti. Pull the water pump, and balancer and take the opti out and look at it. I bet the inside is caked up and rotor is eaten up and the spark current is arcing to other paths.

I was fine till I started to add MSD stuff. Just the box might not do it. But the coil will eat up a stock rotor fast and it will jump inside where it eats up the paths in the cap and will disinagrate that rotor fast also. I had mine miss at around 4k.

I went to the MSD opti...the dayna spark is pretty problemtic from what I have read. MSD does have a cap and rotor replacement for 150......Which will be way better if you wanna try the cheaper route. I think and whole billet unit is still 500. I did the MSD billet unit it 7 years ago and with blaster 2 coil I have not had one issue since. But back to the stock unit......the cap isnt made of quility material enough for the high current of the aftermarket coils. I had stock coil on for 70k and changed coil and 5k later went to crap. Hope the info helps.

Patrick
Old 05-03-2012, 06:15 AM
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Originally Posted by speed_demon24
Well I did the old start it up at night test to check the wires and got a nice light show. Hopefully its something that simple.
I would recommend Taylor 8mm wires in the stock location. Just make sure they are secure to the engine and do not have the opportunity to rub all over the inside of the engine bay or components w/in the engine bay that are not directly connected to the engine.
Old 05-03-2012, 07:51 AM
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Originally Posted by speed_demon24
With my luck it won't be that simple I could have sworn I put in a new set of wires in the last couple of years. Do you know if moroso makes a cut to fit set for LT1's?
i actually dont think they make a pre done set.....youd have to make your own like i did........just buy the boots/ends/wire/sleeve and make your own.....i did this for my opti when i still had it those things were the best $$ i ever spent.....i made another set for my new dizzy too.....best wire on the market hands down.......


Originally Posted by SS RRR
I would recommend Taylor 8mm wires in the stock location. Just make sure they are secure to the engine and do not have the opportunity to rub all over the inside of the engine bay or components w/in the engine bay that are not directly connected to the engine.
yea taylor is ok but ive heard issues as well.......espically with boots popping off the wire ends....plus their boots are too big and tend to hit alot of headers......
Old 05-03-2012, 09:48 AM
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They do fine for hooker LT's. The boots are far smaller than MSD's. I'm thinking the only reason why boots pop off is it can be a challenge to seat them onto the optispark. All I've ever ran are Taylors and have never had issues.
My question is where was the light show/where were the wires grounding out?

I had this same issue, saw that two of my wires were rubbing on the passenger side between the acc bracket and inner fender and were showing signs of spark. Just replaced plugs/wires and all is well.
Old 05-03-2012, 03:43 PM
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Originally Posted by SS RRR
I would recommend Taylor 8mm wires in the stock location. Just make sure they are secure to the engine and do not have the opportunity to rub all over the inside of the engine bay or components w/in the engine bay that are not directly connected to the engine.
I would rather run 12 gauge wire as spart plug wires over taylors. And I can't thing of 1 reason why I should go back to running wires in the stock location when I have 0 chance of burning the wires with the OTVC setup and I can change the wires in about 10 minutes.

Thinking about seeing how much a set from http://www.firecore50.com/ costs.
Old 05-03-2012, 05:09 PM
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Because your OVC wires suck? That's why.
Old 06-03-2012, 09:42 PM
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Speed Demon did you ever get this figured out?
Old 06-03-2012, 09:53 PM
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Originally Posted by SS RRR
Because your OVC wires suck. That's why.
I fixed it. You put a question mark instead of a period, as we all know you were making a statement and not asking .
Old 06-09-2012, 01:05 PM
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Originally Posted by 96LT1355Z28
Speed Demon did you ever get this figured out?
Nope, been waiting on these to show up which they did today.

Old 06-09-2012, 05:05 PM
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Ok I've been having the same issue. I've replaced everything but the PCM and engine harness (plugs, wires, coil, ICM, sent in Dynaspark for testing, lifters, heads with new springs, cam, intake, rockers! Just put a new opti on from the dealer and I'm gonna see if that fixed anything. My Dynaspark was supposed to be good the last 2 times I sent it in, we'll see if the new opti does anything. The Dynaspark was the only constant through the different engine combo's. It will **** me off but for my sanity I sure hope all this time it was due to a mis-diagnosis on Dynasparks part.
Old 06-10-2012, 11:43 AM
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Found about 1/3rd of the ground strap on the starter torn off. Not sure if that is contributing to it. Should have the plugs and wires finished tonight with the ground fixed.
Old 06-11-2012, 04:57 PM
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Stock opti seems to have fixed my issue. It only missed in 3rd and 4th above 5K rpm so I haven't been able to make more than two "passes" on the street, but as of now it's finally gone. I have a race on the 23rd and I'll feel more comfortable confirming it's fixed after a day at the track where I can really push it.
Old 06-14-2012, 07:39 AM
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So far no miss after the wires.
Old 06-14-2012, 10:27 AM
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I think we have to give a +1 brownie point to Quik95lt1
Old 06-14-2012, 07:29 PM
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Glad you fixed it!

I would've questioned the Autolites, the NGK's seem to be the overall favorite around here.

Good thing you didn't go with the Taylor wires-they suck. Many have posted arcing issues with them, even fresh outta the box. I had this problem also when I had the '94.

I had issues with two different Opti units, one was from a GM parts counter. The cure for my car was the MSD unit.

I also went with the LTCC LSx coil setup on the '94. BEST upgrade I did.

Wires. Much debated. Here's some real facts about wires:

Resistance per foot:

Granatelli 8mm Steel Solid Core Cable - 0.1 ohms
MSD 8.5mm Super Conductor - 71.6 ohms
Accel 8.8 300+ Ferro-Spiral Race Wire - 166.1 ohms
Jacobs Electronics EnergyCore 8.5mm - 178.3 ohms
Taylor Spiro Pro 8mm Silicone - 301 ohms
Mallory Pro Sidewinder 8mm Silicone Suppression Wire - 313 ohms
Moroso Blue Maz Spiral Core 8mm - 661 ohms
GM stock LS1 - 702 ohms
GM stock LS7 red - 1554 ohms
Magnecor KV85 Competition 2.5mm - 2053 ohms

My '99 ran the best with the Granatelli wires.
Old 06-14-2012, 08:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Paul Bell
Glad you fixed it!

I would've questioned the Autolites, the NGK's seem to be the overall favorite around here.

Good thing you didn't go with the Taylor wires-they suck. Many have posted arcing issues with them, even fresh outta the box. I had this problem also when I had the '94.

I had issues with two different Opti units, one was from a GM parts counter. The cure for my car was the MSD unit.

I also went with the LTCC LSx coil setup on the '94. BEST upgrade I did.

Wires. Much debated. Here's some real facts about wires:

Resistance per foot:

Granatelli 8mm Steel Solid Core Cable - 0.1 ohms
MSD 8.5mm Super Conductor - 71.6 ohms
Accel 8.8 300+ Ferro-Spiral Race Wire - 166.1 ohms
Jacobs Electronics EnergyCore 8.5mm - 178.3 ohms
Taylor Spiro Pro 8mm Silicone - 301 ohms
Mallory Pro Sidewinder 8mm Silicone Suppression Wire - 313 ohms
Moroso Blue Maz Spiral Core 8mm - 661 ohms
GM stock LS1 - 702 ohms
GM stock LS7 red - 1554 ohms
Magnecor KV85 Competition 2.5mm - 2053 ohms

My '99 ran the best with the Granatelli wires.
Resistance figures are pretty much useless in comparing wires. You want good EMF suppression and high quality construction. Not to mention our plugs have 5k resistors in them so a few ohms in the wires is negligible.
Old 06-14-2012, 08:26 PM
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Originally Posted by speed_demon24
Resistance figures are pretty much useless in comparing wires. You want good EMF suppression and high quality construction. Not to mention our plugs have 5k resistors in them so a few ohms in the wires is negligible.
I couldn't agree with you more. However, the Granatelli set made a difference in how my engine ran. I can't say for sure if it makes more power but it sure runs great-better than any other wire I tried. There's been a few others who've reported the same.

The Granatelli wires have a great warranty and are super tough. I'm very happy with their construction. I have no issues with EMF with them.

Last edited by Paul Bell; 06-14-2012 at 08:37 PM.
Old 06-15-2012, 01:46 AM
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dang c5's are worse? lol my ss camaro is hard on space for hands lol i just did my spark plugs tr55's with msd wires that spark plug i think it was #8 was friggin hard took me a long time to do that one but its all running good now


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