Never raced on a track before, what should I expect.
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Never raced on a track before, what should I expect.
1997 Z28 Camaro. 6 Speed Manuel. 65k miles.
Modds include:
Heads : (Flowed 249 intake/162 exhaust, 11:1 compression) Heads milled .010, .026" gaskets
- Manley 2.0 intake/1.60 exhaust valves, Crane 10308-1 spring kit,
- GMPP Hotcam
- GMPP 1.6 ratio aluminum roller rockers
- Comp Cams hardened pushrods
- Cloyes double roller timing chain
- Hypertech 160 deg t-stat
- CSI electric water pump
- March 25% underdrive pulley
- 1LE a/c delete pulley
- Lucas/Delphi 42 lbs / hr injectors
- Walbro 255 lph fuel pump
- MSD Blaster Coil, new MSD opti cap/rotor
- Taylor Spiro Pro 8mm wires, NGK TR55 plugs
- SLP LS1 lid conversion with ls1 upper radiator shroud
- Stock TB, Hypertech airfoil, TB coolant bypass
- PCMforless hotcam programming, 180 deg fan setting, 6500rpm rev limiter. Deleted: EGR/AIR/CAGS/CPS/rear O2's
- SLP 1-3/4" midlength headers/ypipe. Stainless steel, had them Jet Hot coated 3 years ago, look brand new
- Borla exhaust with DMH remote electric cutout
- Cat removed
- Stock T56, B&M Ripper Shifter.
- Lingenfelter 3.5" aluminum driveshaft, spicer yoke & 1350 rear joint
- Moser 12 bolt, 4:10 gears, 1350 pinion yoke, Eaton posi, 33 spline axles, aluminum support cover & preload studs.
Energy Suspension Poly: front & rear sway bar bushings & end links, trans & engine mounts
- BMR strut tower brace
- Spohn body mounted TA & DS loop, BMR adjustable panhard bar, UMI adj LCA's, Comp Eng. welded SFC's
- LS1 brakes/slotted & cross drilled rotors, line lock. Rear: stock/Hawk HPS pads
- C5 Vette silver Y2K thinspokes 17x8.5 / 18x9.5
- Kuhmo Exsta MX 245/45/17 , Nitto Drag Radials 305/40/18
- Original springs, new rear shocks just installed
I've done some street racing, practiced some launches, but never raced at a track before. I know I'm not gonna be able to get my car to run close to what it actually can run, but I'm just wondering what kinda time range I should expect being a first timer at the track.
Guy I bought it from got a 12.01 from it at 116 mph. With Aluminum drag wheels. Did the head work, took it back to the track without the aluminum drag wheels and got around the same time, but with a 117+ trap speed.
So I'm guessing this car is easily capable of 11's with Aluminum drag wheels and good driving.
Modds include:
Heads : (Flowed 249 intake/162 exhaust, 11:1 compression) Heads milled .010, .026" gaskets
- Manley 2.0 intake/1.60 exhaust valves, Crane 10308-1 spring kit,
- GMPP Hotcam
- GMPP 1.6 ratio aluminum roller rockers
- Comp Cams hardened pushrods
- Cloyes double roller timing chain
- Hypertech 160 deg t-stat
- CSI electric water pump
- March 25% underdrive pulley
- 1LE a/c delete pulley
- Lucas/Delphi 42 lbs / hr injectors
- Walbro 255 lph fuel pump
- MSD Blaster Coil, new MSD opti cap/rotor
- Taylor Spiro Pro 8mm wires, NGK TR55 plugs
- SLP LS1 lid conversion with ls1 upper radiator shroud
- Stock TB, Hypertech airfoil, TB coolant bypass
- PCMforless hotcam programming, 180 deg fan setting, 6500rpm rev limiter. Deleted: EGR/AIR/CAGS/CPS/rear O2's
- SLP 1-3/4" midlength headers/ypipe. Stainless steel, had them Jet Hot coated 3 years ago, look brand new
- Borla exhaust with DMH remote electric cutout
- Cat removed
- Stock T56, B&M Ripper Shifter.
- Lingenfelter 3.5" aluminum driveshaft, spicer yoke & 1350 rear joint
- Moser 12 bolt, 4:10 gears, 1350 pinion yoke, Eaton posi, 33 spline axles, aluminum support cover & preload studs.
Energy Suspension Poly: front & rear sway bar bushings & end links, trans & engine mounts
- BMR strut tower brace
- Spohn body mounted TA & DS loop, BMR adjustable panhard bar, UMI adj LCA's, Comp Eng. welded SFC's
- LS1 brakes/slotted & cross drilled rotors, line lock. Rear: stock/Hawk HPS pads
- C5 Vette silver Y2K thinspokes 17x8.5 / 18x9.5
- Kuhmo Exsta MX 245/45/17 , Nitto Drag Radials 305/40/18
- Original springs, new rear shocks just installed
I've done some street racing, practiced some launches, but never raced at a track before. I know I'm not gonna be able to get my car to run close to what it actually can run, but I'm just wondering what kinda time range I should expect being a first timer at the track.
Guy I bought it from got a 12.01 from it at 116 mph. With Aluminum drag wheels. Did the head work, took it back to the track without the aluminum drag wheels and got around the same time, but with a 117+ trap speed.
So I'm guessing this car is easily capable of 11's with Aluminum drag wheels and good driving.
#2
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You mentioned the PCM4less tune for a hotcam, most people who do the hotcam dont put in 42lb injectors, those things are huge for your application and the fact you also have heads is making that tune not ideal, but it helps. Your 18s with Nittos are not going to do crap on the track, dont expect any better than a 1.9 60', and you will be lucky to get that. Your rear end and suspension setup is BEGGING you for a set of stock 16" rims with ET streets on them, with that you could cut probably a 1.6 or better 60 with some practice. I wouldnt spin that motor past 6100ish with those SA rockers though. Everything else about your valvetrain looks great, but you should consider picking up some NSA rockers. You are also leaving a little on the table with the midlength headers; since you already dont have a cat and are not lowered, why not get some LTs?
For your first time at the track, I wouldnt expect more than high 12s at around 112, but Ill bet your first run will be mid 13s as you shake the first time jitters and get used to those 18s and nittos spinning. With good driving, a real set of drag tires and some LTs and a dyno tune, I would guess 11.6 at 117.
For your first time at the track, I wouldnt expect more than high 12s at around 112, but Ill bet your first run will be mid 13s as you shake the first time jitters and get used to those 18s and nittos spinning. With good driving, a real set of drag tires and some LTs and a dyno tune, I would guess 11.6 at 117.
#4
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Yellow, yellow, yell(hit the gas)ow, green on a .500 sportsman tree. Pro tree is super fast. Basically, see yellow and hit the gas.
I agree with all said above. First or millionth time, you get nervous. So expect it.
The rest is on you. Depending on how well you can bang gears. Not too many ppl out there can really rip throught the gears. Some claim they can but I've seen old people walk faster than some of those who claim to "Bang gears".
Take your time rolling into the lights. Watch others before you go out there. And for God's sake, don't pull a Ricer move and stage with your rear wheels.
Basic rules are to Pre-stage, wait till the next guy does or if he already is, you pre-stage. Then you both stage to light both lights...and get ready. A line lock in a M6 helps alot.
I agree with all said above. First or millionth time, you get nervous. So expect it.
The rest is on you. Depending on how well you can bang gears. Not too many ppl out there can really rip throught the gears. Some claim they can but I've seen old people walk faster than some of those who claim to "Bang gears".
Take your time rolling into the lights. Watch others before you go out there. And for God's sake, don't pull a Ricer move and stage with your rear wheels.
Basic rules are to Pre-stage, wait till the next guy does or if he already is, you pre-stage. Then you both stage to light both lights...and get ready. A line lock in a M6 helps alot.
Last edited by SAPPER; 05-08-2012 at 03:04 PM.
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You mentioned the PCM4less tune for a hotcam, most people who do the hotcam dont put in 42lb injectors, those things are huge for your application and the fact you also have heads is making that tune not ideal, but it helps. Your 18s with Nittos are not going to do crap on the track, dont expect any better than a 1.9 60', and you will be lucky to get that. Your rear end and suspension setup is BEGGING you for a set of stock 16" rims with ET streets on them, with that you could cut probably a 1.6 or better 60 with some practice. I wouldnt spin that motor past 6100ish with those SA rockers though. Everything else about your valvetrain looks great, but you should consider picking up some NSA rockers. You are also leaving a little on the table with the midlength headers; since you already dont have a cat and are not lowered, why not get some LTs?
.
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Harley, shoot me a pm if you have any other questions before you run it
Good luck!
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Yes, that's what I used to with the car, what's your point? 6300 isn't a big deal on a stock bottom end LT1 with SA roller rockers. Hell some guys run f'n 847 cams revving in the 6500-7k range. Now THAT is a bit much for a stock bottom end, but guys have done it. 6300 isn't a problem.
#13
Your engine do what you want with it. Oh wait, his engine now.
Heads and cam do not have anything to do with the safety of spinning an engine.
Self Aligning Rockers are not to float around in higher RPM. Which just means you were to lays to put in NSA and guideplates. Guideplates are like 30 bucks. Why build a top end then risk ruining because you didn't want to spend 30 bucks.
Apparently the consensus is 6200-6300rpm on a stock bottom end that was well maintained.
Heads and cam do not have anything to do with the safety of spinning an engine.
Self Aligning Rockers are not to float around in higher RPM. Which just means you were to lays to put in NSA and guideplates. Guideplates are like 30 bucks. Why build a top end then risk ruining because you didn't want to spend 30 bucks.
Apparently the consensus is 6200-6300rpm on a stock bottom end that was well maintained.
Last edited by F0x Slaughter; 05-08-2012 at 07:28 PM.
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Thanks gregg, I will probably send you a pm before I make it to the track for some last minute pointers.
This car runs amazing with the current set up. Gregg knew what he was doing when he built it. I have ran this car hard several times and no problems what so ever, runs great.
I was thinking about getting some heads from loyd elliot or advanced induction and a bigger cam, but as good as the cars runs already I figured maybe Ill just add some spray and I'm sure I will be more than satisfied.
This car runs amazing with the current set up. Gregg knew what he was doing when he built it. I have ran this car hard several times and no problems what so ever, runs great.
I was thinking about getting some heads from loyd elliot or advanced induction and a bigger cam, but as good as the cars runs already I figured maybe Ill just add some spray and I'm sure I will be more than satisfied.
#18
Id expect 13.3's, anything quicker and youll be a happy person. First times out are often not good, lots of tire spinning, lots of wasted shifts. Most people with a manual will short shift 1st like its their job if they are spinning. "WAAAAAAAAAAAA-WUUHHHHHH".
best thing to do on a first run is to let it go easy. Just run 1st gear like you normally do from a light, maybe a tad more aggressive. Lay into it in 2nd, go from there.
Those nittos youll find are freaking annoying.
The only thing you should worry about is having fun. If you arnt having fun, your doing it wrong. The only thing Ive learned is that unless your at sea level with a track preppped that will take a shoe off your foot, your car will never run what it should.
Good luck to you, and have fun if the bug bites you.
best thing to do on a first run is to let it go easy. Just run 1st gear like you normally do from a light, maybe a tad more aggressive. Lay into it in 2nd, go from there.
Those nittos youll find are freaking annoying.
The only thing you should worry about is having fun. If you arnt having fun, your doing it wrong. The only thing Ive learned is that unless your at sea level with a track preppped that will take a shoe off your foot, your car will never run what it should.
Good luck to you, and have fun if the bug bites you.
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Hey Harley, sorry to hijack your thread, lol. I set up the car so it was nearly unbreakable for the track, I wouldn't worry about hurting anything with it. I would highly recommend picking up a set of 16 dr's though. The car really didn't like the 18's at the track, they're a great street tire though. Lots of guys sell stock 16" wheels and dr's mounted cheap. You can usually find some with good life left in them for $2-300. The 18's are not easy to launch, especially for your first time. I miss running it at the track, wish I could have kept it as my track day car, maybe I'll build another one someday.
#20
Stay calm and remember that it is all about you. You want to make sure you have a good feel for your car, if something doesn’t feel right shut it down and get back in line. It is better to take a slow 30 sec ¼ mile time then would be to take 30 minutes to clean your car off the track. A really good mind set to have is that you’re not trying to beat the car next to you but the clock instead. I’ve seen to many people freak out because the car next to them are beating them and try to rap out there engine to get in front or get too cocky because they are beating the car next to them and miss a gear. I used to imagine that I was the only one there and no one else was around. Just my car, the tree and me, cause you know you always run better when no one is looking.