Replacing lifters
Replacing lifters So the guy (good friends with my Dad) that bought my 95 Trans Am over a year ago wants me to replace the lifters on it, because apparently one collapsed. I told him I could do it because I have experience with it. Only question is that he said he'd pay me good but I have no idea what I should really charge. (I was thinking 300-400)? Also I had said while I was in there that if he would like I could put 1.6 RR's in to get a little more horsepower out of it, but that would probably require a tune correct? I told him a new set of LS7 lifters deffinetly but is there anything else that should be replaced (besides gaskets) while I'm in there? The dude isn't on a budget so I don't think he'd have a problem with replacing other parts to save time in the long run. Any opinions?
Well here is the deal, if you do use Ls7 lifters you really need to check pushrod length! Those lifters are a little different in length.... If you do go that route step up to 7/16 screw-in studs, 1.6 or 1.7 rockers,hardened or chromoly pushrods and defined put a set of valve springs on there..... Lt1s benefit from a tune any way so that should be on the list.....
What other mods are done? Hopefully it has a CAI and headers on there if not this is the best time for this to happen.......
What other mods are done? Hopefully it has a CAI and headers on there if not this is the best time for this to happen.......
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I never bothered updating my tune when I swapped in my 1.6's and springs and my car ran totally fine. I ended up consistently trapping a couple mph faster in the quarter actually. I really think that gain came more from the new valve springs than the rockers arms.
LT1 stock springs kind of suck, and will float when rev'd high. If you're gonna do rocker arms for this guy, till him to buy a valve spring set, too. From my experience they're more important than 1.6 roller rockers.
LT1 stock springs kind of suck, and will float when rev'd high. If you're gonna do rocker arms for this guy, till him to buy a valve spring set, too. From my experience they're more important than 1.6 roller rockers.
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Well you have to remove the intake manifold, valve covers, rockers, then push rods, lifters.
So the alternator has to be removed.
I would say 150 plus parts.
It only takes less than an hour if you know what you are doing.
(Without the Rocker Arms)
If you go Rocker Arms then you have to either do the head on method or take the heads off.
So obviously more.
So the alternator has to be removed.
I would say 150 plus parts.
It only takes less than an hour if you know what you are doing.
(Without the Rocker Arms)
If you go Rocker Arms then you have to either do the head on method or take the heads off.
So obviously more.
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Now from what I see . This still won't make enough of a difference to alarm someone . I see people have no issues just dropping them in. So if it's true or not might not even be important .
Well you have to remove the intake manifold, valve covers, rockers, then push rods, lifters.
So the alternator has to be removed.
I would say 150 plus parts.
It only takes less than an hour if you know what you are doing.
(Without the Rocker Arms)
If you go Rocker Arms then you have to either do the head on method or take the heads off.
So obviously more.
So the alternator has to be removed.
I would say 150 plus parts.
It only takes less than an hour if you know what you are doing.
(Without the Rocker Arms)
If you go Rocker Arms then you have to either do the head on method or take the heads off.
So obviously more.
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Shops are a rip off. As I said it takes under an hour to swap lifters if you've done it before.
150 bucks for an hour of your time?
Plus its your dads buddy.
Remove alternator, valve covers, intake manifold, rockers, push rods, lifters. Reassemble.
150 bucks for an hour of your time?
Plus its your dads buddy.
Remove alternator, valve covers, intake manifold, rockers, push rods, lifters. Reassemble.
It'll be more then an hour as I haven't done them before on an LT1 but I know I can do it because I've built engines before. I was thinking more along the lines of 200ish. Shops would easily charge 500 if not more...
What lifters should he buy as stock replacements? Also if he wants to get more hp out of it what springs/rocker arms should he buy? Also what would be the best method of getting the springs off with the heads on the engine?
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LS7 lifters are GM replacement, since they don't make LT1 lifters anymore.
For springs, Lloyd Elliot uses Patriot Gold for the mild heads, all out heads he uses Patriot Gold Extremes.
They are 250 and 300 for springs, retainers, locators, locks. They have titanium retainers.
There is the top dead center method, raise the piston to top dead center, remove locks the valve will drop onto the piston.
I don't like this method.
Connect an air compressor to a spark plug adapter and fill the cylinder will air, this will hold the valves up while you change the springs.
Rocker Arms most guys use Comp Cams Pro Magnums.
Changing to a full roller rocker arm is good for like 10rwhp.
For springs, Lloyd Elliot uses Patriot Gold for the mild heads, all out heads he uses Patriot Gold Extremes.
They are 250 and 300 for springs, retainers, locators, locks. They have titanium retainers.
There is the top dead center method, raise the piston to top dead center, remove locks the valve will drop onto the piston.
I don't like this method.
Connect an air compressor to a spark plug adapter and fill the cylinder will air, this will hold the valves up while you change the springs.
Rocker Arms most guys use Comp Cams Pro Magnums.
Changing to a full roller rocker arm is good for like 10rwhp.
With a stock cam I would keep it simple and cheap and use LT4 springs, they are dirt cheap and will handle a stock cam nicely. Springs are one thing I would not advocate buying overkill on because in a performance application they are a wear item.
Now rockers if there is any chance he would do a heads/cam swap later then I would jump right to 7/16" studs guideplates and a nice rocker right now. If he wont then a 1.6 ratio aluminum SA rocker is fine.
Like I said though lifter failures on these are pretty rare and when they happen are usually caused by something like missadjustment so I doubt the lifter is a problem.
Now rockers if there is any chance he would do a heads/cam swap later then I would jump right to 7/16" studs guideplates and a nice rocker right now. If he wont then a 1.6 ratio aluminum SA rocker is fine.
Like I said though lifter failures on these are pretty rare and when they happen are usually caused by something like missadjustment so I doubt the lifter is a problem.
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$150 is really cheap to do a lifter swap job on an LT1.
Removing and reinstalling the intake manifold is a pretty time consuming thing. I can take mine off in no time, but bolting it back on takes time. All surfaces have to be scraped clean and degreased, especially the front and back walls of the block where you're relying solely on the RTV to stop any leaks. Plus all 12 bolts need to be torqued down in sequence, in two passes at 6 and then 35 ft lbs.
Same thing applies to the valve train-- the rocker arms unbolt in seconds, but it takes time to put them back on and set the lash properly.
Think it through and figure out how long you think it will take, then decide what you think you deserve per hour, and also take into account that the job is for a friend of the family. I get the feeling you'll probably do the job for more like $250.
If he wants new valve springs, better count on another hour or two to get them swapped in. If you don't have an air compressor, you'll have to manually turn the engine over and do each cylinder with the piston at top dead center so that the valves don't fall in through the head when you take the old springs off. Also, the back 8 springs are buried under the windshield and there's not enough room to use a cheap "lever style" tool to do the job, you'll have to get a normal spring compressor.
Removing and reinstalling the intake manifold is a pretty time consuming thing. I can take mine off in no time, but bolting it back on takes time. All surfaces have to be scraped clean and degreased, especially the front and back walls of the block where you're relying solely on the RTV to stop any leaks. Plus all 12 bolts need to be torqued down in sequence, in two passes at 6 and then 35 ft lbs.
Same thing applies to the valve train-- the rocker arms unbolt in seconds, but it takes time to put them back on and set the lash properly.
Think it through and figure out how long you think it will take, then decide what you think you deserve per hour, and also take into account that the job is for a friend of the family. I get the feeling you'll probably do the job for more like $250.
If he wants new valve springs, better count on another hour or two to get them swapped in. If you don't have an air compressor, you'll have to manually turn the engine over and do each cylinder with the piston at top dead center so that the valves don't fall in through the head when you take the old springs off. Also, the back 8 springs are buried under the windshield and there's not enough room to use a cheap "lever style" tool to do the job, you'll have to get a normal spring compressor.
