How much did u pay for your block?
I won't post it on here but I will say The Clayton's took very good care of me for what I have. We worked out a great deal and both of us were happy and benefited from it. To say I am happy with the work and outcome would be an understatement.
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 1,157
Likes: 1
From: Kingfisher Oklahoma
I had my block machined (hot tanked,bored, squared, line bored, billet caps, new freeze plugs, cam bearings, and the rotating assembly balanced, including puting the pistons to the rods for a grand. My rotating assembly was around 1500$. I had a good 20 hours of labor involved in the assembly of the shortblock, but I clearanced the block myself so I had it together and part at least 10 times. I also matched each piston to it's best fit, unfortunately they forgot to mark them at the MS.
Price out everything with machining, balancing, blueprinting if it was.
Parts and labor if a shop did everything for ya. ALso what your location is?
All minus the cam, flywheel, timing chain. Just the block with rotating assembly.
Even if you bought the parts and had a shop do the engine build, type in what the cost of parts was and the build anyway. But please specify.
stock short block with forged pistons only? .030-.060 over with machining
Stock short block with all bearings replaced, Forged pistons and resize the rods with arp bolt?
Stock short block with all bearings replaced, Forged pistons and resize the rods with arp bolt and convert to 4 bolt main with splayed bolts?
Stock short block with all bearings replaced, Forged pistons and New forged rods with arp bolts and convert to 4 bolt main with splayed bolts?
Fully forged bottom end ( if so what kit, i.e callies, eagle, scat) (stock stroke and length or 3.75, 5.7/5.85/6.0 rod)
with arp everything, all bearings replaced and 4 bolt main caps
Parts and labor if a shop did everything for ya. ALso what your location is?
All minus the cam, flywheel, timing chain. Just the block with rotating assembly.
Even if you bought the parts and had a shop do the engine build, type in what the cost of parts was and the build anyway. But please specify.
stock short block with forged pistons only? .030-.060 over with machining
Stock short block with all bearings replaced, Forged pistons and resize the rods with arp bolt?
Stock short block with all bearings replaced, Forged pistons and resize the rods with arp bolt and convert to 4 bolt main with splayed bolts?
Stock short block with all bearings replaced, Forged pistons and New forged rods with arp bolts and convert to 4 bolt main with splayed bolts?
Fully forged bottom end ( if so what kit, i.e callies, eagle, scat) (stock stroke and length or 3.75, 5.7/5.85/6.0 rod)
with arp everything, all bearings replaced and 4 bolt main caps
stock crank cut .010 $175
resized rods with arp 8740 bolts $200
Speed Pro Forged Piston $400
balanced, bored/honed, decked, hot tanked $950
main, rod, cam bearings $120
plus all ur gaskets and crap.......
now lets go overkill for most builds.....my 385 is as follows....ill use retail prices not my prices....
callies magnum crank $1300
oliver billet rods $1200
SRP Pro Series Pistons, coated at swain with a custom total seal ring set $1350
Main,Cam,Rod bearings $300
Balanced, Bored/Honed w/ Deckplate, Converted to Billet 4 Bolt mains with ARP Studs, Decked and squared, Line Bored, lifter bores checked, rod ends clearanced for floating pins $1850 w/ studs and billet caps
then my labor doing all the clearancing, ring filing, and assembly for what i did on my motor id be charging around $750 including painting the lifter valley and timing area with gyptal for drain back and some other things i decline to mention
.......again far over kill for most builds........that shortblock ive been taking to 8000+rpm with around 650-700hp for years with no issues at all......again those prices do not include anything short of the rotating assembly......no oiling system at all
Bought a brand new never run 2bolt 383 with eagle forged crank & H-beams and -16cc forged pistons and all ARP hardware for $350 that was built by a nice shop. lol. Also got an opti, cam, lifters, timing set, and a professional products lt1 balancer.
With the heads he had on it(Dart Pro 1s) I have the receipts & build sheet, it cost him around 8500.
Then I tore it all down and built it the way I wanted it. lol
With the heads he had on it(Dart Pro 1s) I have the receipts & build sheet, it cost him around 8500.
Then I tore it all down and built it the way I wanted it. lol
Thread Starter
TECH Veteran
iTrader: (246)
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 4,984
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From: Chicago/Crown point
Bought a brand new never run 2bolt 383 with eagle forged crank & H-beams and -16cc forged pistons and all ARP hardware for $350 that was built by a nice shop. lol. Also got an opti, cam, lifters, timing set, and a professional products lt1 balancer.
With the heads he had on it(Dart Pro 1s) I have the receipts & build sheet, it cost him around 8500.
Then I tore it all down and built it the way I wanted it. lol
With the heads he had on it(Dart Pro 1s) I have the receipts & build sheet, it cost him around 8500.
Then I tore it all down and built it the way I wanted it. lol
Like most others...little over a grand for the block work and bearings.
.060 over, h-series bearings, splayed billet cap conversion...the complete works. The block is actually for sale if you're interested. Also have a set of JE nitrous pistons, -14cc dish, 10.8-1cr with a 65cc head.
Also, thats with me doing the clearancing work myself for crank, 3.875 stoke (398ci).
.060 over, h-series bearings, splayed billet cap conversion...the complete works. The block is actually for sale if you're interested. Also have a set of JE nitrous pistons, -14cc dish, 10.8-1cr with a 65cc head.
Also, thats with me doing the clearancing work myself for crank, 3.875 stoke (398ci).
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FWIW I had my block completely disassembled, reassembled, and gone over plus flycutting pistons in a vice while they were out for $900.
Torn down, cleaned and hot tanked, line bored, all clearances and parts checked, pistons flycut, and fresh L19 rod bolts reinstalled because the original builder decided to grind down the head bolts too much instead of fully clearancing the block.
I wanted to make sure everything was good to go before I put it in the car since I bought the shortblock already assembled, and luckily I did since the main bearing clearance was way too tight and my builder thinks the splayed main conversion was not done properly.
Torn down, cleaned and hot tanked, line bored, all clearances and parts checked, pistons flycut, and fresh L19 rod bolts reinstalled because the original builder decided to grind down the head bolts too much instead of fully clearancing the block.
I wanted to make sure everything was good to go before I put it in the car since I bought the shortblock already assembled, and luckily I did since the main bearing clearance was way too tight and my builder thinks the splayed main conversion was not done properly.
Brand new LT1 4-bolt main block, never used - $600
Ohio 3.480 4340 Crank - $500
Mahle PowerPak - $500
Compstar 5.7" Rods - $500
Race bearing set - $300
Machine shop labor - $950
$3300
Ohio 3.480 4340 Crank - $500
Mahle PowerPak - $500
Compstar 5.7" Rods - $500
Race bearing set - $300
Machine shop labor - $950
$3300
mine was similar with a cloyes double roller and they installed the oil pan, flexplate and the heads with arp bolts and felpro 1074 head gaskets for 1750 bucks
