coating guide plates?
coating guide plates? i used isky adj guide plates. Finished tacking and grinded off to a flat surface.....I wanted to see if i can use por15 or something to re coat the bare metal showing. does this seem ok?
Exactly. Oil vapors run amuck underneath the valve covers when the engine is running. There is a lot of bare metal inside an engine. As long as the engine is used normally and is not exposed to outside air for long periods of time, all is well. The tin PCV pan bolted underneath the intake is a perfect example. Nothing rusts quicker than that piece when it hits outside air...
Leave them as they are. You don't want any coating flaking off and making it's way into your oil system. If the plates appeared to be coated black when you started it was most likely a Black Oxide finish finish from the factory. The only reason for that coating is to keep the parts from rusting when in storage/shipping while waiting to be installed into an engine. Once installed into a running engine they will be oil covered.
Yeah it would suck if por15 wiped out all your hard work If you cant sleep over it Have em anodized or a black oxide treatment but no paint Id rather smooth the lifter valley than paint it too Piston & bearing coatings are good But the inside of a motor needs to be extra clean for assy
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On The Tree
Joined: Apr 2010
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I think I spent nearly three hours getting my guide plates adjusted just like I wanted and I don't think they will move, but there is always the possibility. The only reason I didn't is because welding them doesn't completely eliminate the possibility of them moving. They can still shift under the rocker arm studs.
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The posts are correct that you really don't need to coat them, but I have a question for you that I am debating. Did you tack weld the plates after you got them adjusted?
I think I spent nearly three hours getting my guide plates adjusted just like I wanted and I don't think they will move, but there is always the possibility. The only reason I didn't is because welding them doesn't completely eliminate the possibility of them moving. They can still shift under the rocker arm studs.
I think I spent nearly three hours getting my guide plates adjusted just like I wanted and I don't think they will move, but there is always the possibility. The only reason I didn't is because welding them doesn't completely eliminate the possibility of them moving. They can still shift under the rocker arm studs.
I think I spent nearly three hours getting my guide plates adjusted just like I wanted and I don't think they will move, but there is always the possibility. The only reason I didn't is because welding them doesn't completely eliminate the possibility of them moving. They can still shift under the rocker arm studs.
I also noticed that just simply torqueing down a single side not welded to the other, resulted in in it mofing moving. Once they were welded, this was no longer an issue. Bottom line is there is no way I would ever want to deal with the frustrsation of realigning these guide plates assuming they are not welded together.
On The Tree
Joined: Apr 2010
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I agree with you two. I am in the process of building an LT1 stock eliminator motor on a Bowtie block and I will weld these. And mark them! Did either of you have a mild panic attack wondering which one was which if you didn't mark them? 
i etched them to the proper piston before i tacked and removed them. and the etch was to the sides in atleast 2 places . this way you dont accidently grind it off after welding.
Before anyone goes and makes a mess inside their engine I believe it prudent to say TIG is preferred here because it will make less mess.
I never welded mine but then again I don't have to take my stuff apart often. Come valve spring replacement time though if a rocker loosened you would have to reset, I really didn't find it bad though, but then again my engine is easier to reach too.
I never welded mine but then again I don't have to take my stuff apart often. Come valve spring replacement time though if a rocker loosened you would have to reset, I really didn't find it bad though, but then again my engine is easier to reach too.
Before anyone goes and makes a mess inside their engine I believe it prudent to say TIG is preferred here because it will make less mess.
I never welded mine but then again I don't have to take my stuff apart often. Come valve spring replacement time though if a rocker loosened you would have to reset, I really didn't find it bad though, but then again my engine is easier to reach too.
I never welded mine but then again I don't have to take my stuff apart often. Come valve spring replacement time though if a rocker loosened you would have to reset, I really didn't find it bad though, but then again my engine is easier to reach too.
This worked well but take a lot of extra time.