96capricemgr

iTrader: (1)

No rockers, no studs, no guideplates, no pushrods.

You need to accept that your goals and budget do not line up with the currently necessary repairs and figure out where you are going to compromise for now.

4thgenfan1995

Ok great ill probably just stick with the bottom end rebuild and I should be able to do that for 3k right? Cause then I can do heads cam when I get the money to be able to afford all supporting mods

Dave357LT1

Id do the rebuild with boltons and gears... Do alot of reading and save up. Bolton cars can run 12's and that isnt to shabby for a street car and might be fun with those pesky ricers

bufmatmuslepants

iTrader: (3)

Dont be so opposed to nitrous, it gets a bad rep because of people doing huge dry shots on stock bottom ends without retarding timing or getting it tuned. As long as you stick with a wet kit, get a 6AL or something else to retard timing, a window switch, a WOT switch, a 255 GPH fuel pump, and a bottle heater, you can spray 150 on a stock bottom end for years without problems, and on a forged bottom end like your talking about you can do up to 200 shot with a plate. If all you do is rebuild the bottom end with some good parts and bump up the compression a little with 0.026 head gaskets, boltons, some weight reduction, and a tune, you will be mid-low 12s NA, mid-low 11s with a 100 shot. You will still have a stock sounding sleeper of a car, which will really catch people off guard.

4thgenfan1995

yea the reason im not too kean on using nos is because i dont really know anything about it. How much does it cost to refil a bottle and does the whole bottle only last for 1 100 shot?

robsquikz28

iTrader: (246)

Alright I figured it would be YOU to ask this!!!!

EVerything he can buy on here USED!

racetronix kit yes 200
Nitrous kit depends on what he gets 200-500 used or new
mallory 685 retard/window switch 200ish
cam 200 or less depending on what he gets or wants.
roller rockers SA 150ish
or upgrade to NSA with guideplates and rods 60ish
ALL gaskets for under 60 bucks
mail order tune 150ish
injectors 130-200
$200-400 for a stall, hell even 450 for a badass one with nitrous antiballoon plates.
slicks or drag radials you can get like new for less than 250.

THat does NOT include the rebuild of the engine which IMO you dont need at all.
YEs you will make well over 400hp and if done right even over 500hp

SO I have under $2000 and still $ to spend. Believe me I have built 10 sec cars for under 2k for myself and customers. I will do it again in a heartbeat. They are still everyday drivers and weekend warriors. I have mine still with over 40k miles since I started beating the **** out of it and well over 200 passes on spray.

It can be done

killerz97

iTrader: (1)

I would pull the motor apart and see how bad the crank is then find out if it can be reused or if its to bad and you have to get a new crank. Possibly look into a 383 if you have to buy a new crank.

coolmanvette75

iTrader: (2)

Usually like $60 per bottle (10 lb bottle). 100 shot should last you 10 or 11 runs at the track granted you have a heater to be able to use every last drop in the tank...

96capricemgr

iTrader: (1)

Since you didn't address it are you suggesting he run stock valvesprings?

Not so much as a shift kit for the tranny? How about fluids?

robsquikz28

iTrader: (246)

lol ok figure in new oil and filter for everything. even the valve springs u can still b under 2k.

no shift kit at all.

fex77k

iTrader: (2)

It isn't the big ticket items that you will have to worry about, its the little things that are going to drive the price up. To build a awesome motor it would be a waste and probably be a headache if you didn't have the right supporting modifications. While most stock items will work for a limited time behind a modified motor, its just a mater of time before the break. I hate having to fix things twice, so I rather do it once. Honestly you might be able to get the parts for 5k, but labor and small stuff is going to **** you off. If you think you can get it done for 5k go ahead, but it will probably be closer to 7.5k.

RamAir95TA

iTrader: (2)

Parts for my 383 build were right around $7000, but in the end it was probably closer to $10,000 out the door once the trans was done, converter, rear end, all the ancillary stuff. Just to give you a real world example.

THADD

iTrader: (12)

I have built a few 383 lt1's and everytime it cost around $10,000 and I was making around 380hp with a stalled auto. Dyno numbers can be skewed though. With 380hp my car still ran 11.1 @ 119 mph on motor.

96capricemgr

iTrader: (1)

In a dream world yes but from a practical standpoint highly unlikely.

How about the knocking you think he should spray it with a knock? I suppose that should take care of the timing retard for him right?

The OP can listen to the majority of us and understand we usually spend more than we think when we actually tally things up. You start playing underhood and you find the plug wires are beginning to chafe or the radiator hose is on it's last leg. I think it irresponsible to plan something on screaming deals on 100% used parts and then assume no surprises will come up.

Little things happen, a temps sensor get broken while installing headers, or an oil pressure sender while installing the engine, you have to have some reserve budget for things you didn't plan on.

93M6Formula

Like others have said, you will barely squeak by with 5K for the goals you're after. I would just rebuild the shortblock with stock crank, forged rods and pistons and just do boltons ( Long Tube headers, full exhaust, Cold Air Intake) for now because down the road you can do heads and cam with the motor in the car yet. Then get a good clutch (I recommend Competition Clutch for that.) 4.10s in the rearend since you have a 6-speed. Then get a good tune and Drag Radials.

Just remember, the little things add up quickly and you won't realize it till later.
For example....
I had $1,500 laying around 3 weeks ago. And I was like "alight!" I can get my much needed clutch, New DR's, and a mail order tune that I wanted. Well guess what.... It cost way more than I had initially thought once it came down to doing it because I found a few other items that needed replaced and other cosmetic things underneath the car I wanted to take care of.. (in my own garage btw)

Clutch: $276
Drag Radials: $396
Tune: $150
Oil Pressure Sensor: $36
Rear Main Seal: $25
New Flywheel: $107
4 Cans of Brake cleaner: $12
Loctite: $6
Thread Sealer: $6
Gasket Maker: $4
Swivel Attachment set: $16
4 cans of undercoating: $30
4 quarts of trans oil: $32
4 quarts of motor oil: $18
oil filter: $6
Tape: $3
Zipties: $6
Tailshaft seal: $30
Degreaser: $6

That's about $1,167.....Where the hell did that all go! Only $820 went towards the parts I was initially replacing. The rest was all that odds n ends crap that was either damaged, or just part of the clutch swap and i'm sure i'm missing a couple things. just think about that.

4thgenfan1995

Thanks a lot for all your replys and I definately agree with the last few posts. I have read a lot of stories of people not having enough money in the end so I think I will just do then bottom end and then do hci another time when I have money for the diff as I think I will also do my trans when I do the engine as it sounds like some bearinga are screwed and I will get a good clutch.

robsquikz28

iTrader: (246)

NAH NAH NAH I hear ya. Im just sayin it can be done. Will everyone do it hell no. Its always over budget and I know that for sure. I always say buy what you can now and install it. Later on down the road buy more and either change the old setup for better or change something else. All to try and go faster!

4thgenfan1995

by the way i have a video of the engine knock on youtube and i was wondering if you guys could take a look at it and kinda confirm it sounds like a rod knock. so here is the link http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6huEcMzeVjQ let me know what it soudns like to you guys.

ahritchie

iTrader: (1)

Why not just buy the lowest mileage stock shortblock (or entire engine) CHEAP ($200-700) on craigslist or somewhere; then do the heads/cam swap on the new motor?

It is certainly nice to have the peace of mind of an all forged 355-383 shortblock when adding big HP with cam/heads but not at all necessary really.

Sorry, youtube doesn't work at my workplace...damn company firewall lol.

wrd1972

iTrader: (12)

Likely a shot main or rod bering. Rebuild time.