Stripped Head Bolt!
Stripped Head Bolt! As the title suggests, i have a stripped head bolt on the passengers side head. To top it off, its the very last bolt closest to the firewall. Its the actual head on the bolt, not the thread that's stripped. I tried using bolt removers but they didnt work. I cant fit a drill in there and i doubt vice grips will help much. Anyone have any ideas how i can get it out? i have very limited room.
Im thinking i should drop the engine and raise the body a little to get enough room to get a drill in there. But id like to know if there's an easier way to get that bolt out.
Thanks.
Im thinking i should drop the engine and raise the body a little to get enough room to get a drill in there. But id like to know if there's an easier way to get that bolt out.
Thanks.
You could get a 90* drill and a short drill bit, might get you enough clearance to get in there.
Could also try cutting the head off another bolt and welding it onto the top of the stripped bolt, if you have enough access for that.
Edit- The welding a nut idea above is even better
Could also try cutting the head off another bolt and welding it onto the top of the stripped bolt, if you have enough access for that.
Edit- The welding a nut idea above is even better
I considered the welding idea but i dont know how to weld nor do i have the tools for that. So a friend of mine came over who has welding tools in his house, but he told me he doesnt have enough room to work in there. I dont want to get the head messed up either so that probably wont work.
I could probably try the 90* drill attachment. Ill have to check to see if they fit.
Any other ideas?
I could probably try the 90* drill attachment. Ill have to check to see if they fit.
Any other ideas?
You have a hell of a better chance screwing something up trying to drill it out rather than trying to weld a nut to the head of it.
Sometimes you can get lucky if it is really stripped pounding the next size down socket onto it or if that isnt close to fitting sometimes you can find a standard if the bolt is metric socket that will almost fit and can be pounded on or vice versa if it is a sae bolt using a metric socket.
Sometimes you can get lucky if it is really stripped pounding the next size down socket onto it or if that isnt close to fitting sometimes you can find a standard if the bolt is metric socket that will almost fit and can be pounded on or vice versa if it is a sae bolt using a metric socket.
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I tried using a smaller size socket, but it wouldnt lock properly. Hammering didnt help either.
Will it be too much of a PITA to remove the engine mounts, drop the engine/lift the car to give me enought room to weld another bolt head on top of the stripped one? Kinda like removing the engine, but only enough to be able to weld in there. I already have most of the wiring harness disconnected including the exhaust manifolds, but I feel like im missing something.
Will it be too much of a PITA to remove the engine mounts, drop the engine/lift the car to give me enought room to weld another bolt head on top of the stripped one? Kinda like removing the engine, but only enough to be able to weld in there. I already have most of the wiring harness disconnected including the exhaust manifolds, but I feel like im missing something.
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I haven't had a bolt yet that I couldn't pound a smaller socket onto. If you have to, strip the head a small bit more and the socket should go on. You could also try putting some dry ice on the head or a fire extinguisher to shrink it just a hair
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Joined: Oct 2011
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From: Apopka FL
I take its the lower row of bolts? I would try a smaller socket first. If you weld a nut make sure your ground clamp is close to were your welding. Also disconnect your ecm.
Last edited by BIGCAT7274; May 20, 2012 at 08:16 AM.
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From: In the garage fixing LT1
Don't flirt with disaster. Do the job properly. Take off the other head bolts, slide the head off over the broken bolt and reinstall the head with fresh bolts using thread sealer. Welding things risks damaging the head, and the last thing you want is to have that bolt snap again further down.
This might help a bit. Its bolt #17 considering this to be the passenger's side head.
I cant fit a drill and the turbo sockets didnt work. Im gonna try to get a second opinion on the welding soon. I might just lift the engine a bit instead since im planning to switch cams soon, and that should give me enough room to work on it.
I cant fit a drill and the turbo sockets didnt work. Im gonna try to get a second opinion on the welding soon. I might just lift the engine a bit instead since im planning to switch cams soon, and that should give me enough room to work on it.
it was getting dark and the car was lifted a bit, but i just wanted to get it done. Lesson well learned. 
There is nothing wrong with welding a nut to the top of it. It not going to **** up the head. I would not try to drill it. One other option is to grind off the head of the bolt,but before doing so you better make sure the entire area is covered and that no debris can get anywhere. Same thing with welding,one bb can **** up your whole day,and if you decide to weld,damp rags will stop a bb. Also as noted put the ground clamp directly to the head casting and as close as possible to the repair area. If I was closer I would help you out.
Bolt #17 is recessed in the head, he wont have room to get a welder in there, no way in hell.
I had to buy a thinner socket to get to the end bolts because it was a tight fit around the bolt head.
I had to buy a thinner socket to get to the end bolts because it was a tight fit around the bolt head.
TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 556
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From: Apopka FL
This might help a bit. Its bolt #17 considering this to be the passenger's side head.
I cant fit a drill and the turbo sockets didnt work. Im gonna try to get a second opinion on the welding soon. I might just lift the engine a bit instead since im planning to switch cams soon, and that should give me enough room to work on it.
I cant fit a drill and the turbo sockets didnt work. Im gonna try to get a second opinion on the welding soon. I might just lift the engine a bit instead since im planning to switch cams soon, and that should give me enough room to work on it.
On The Tree
Joined: Jan 2012
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In the past I have used a extractor socket, Irwin brand from NAPA snap on sells them too. They come in a set with several different sizes. It looks like a socket with spiral threads in side instead of a 12 point or 6 point socket. http://www.irwin.com/tools/screw-bol...olt-extractors