advice for buying a lt1 camaro
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i dont know if im posting this in the right area as i am brand new to the site.
my first car was a 95 z28 but had all slp ss options 6 speed needed paint, some interior stuff ect. anyways ended up selling it.
looking to buy a 93-97 camaro , any certain year i should look for? im probably gonna spend around 4,000 at the lowest to 5700, what should i be looking for rust spots,milage ect. thanks.
my first car was a 95 z28 but had all slp ss options 6 speed needed paint, some interior stuff ect. anyways ended up selling it.
looking to buy a 93-97 camaro , any certain year i should look for? im probably gonna spend around 4,000 at the lowest to 5700, what should i be looking for rust spots,milage ect. thanks.
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do you want a lt1 or ls1. if i was you i go get a ls1 98 to 02. you can pick them up for around your price range. and if you want the lt1 dont get the 93. and a lt1 f body worth 4k should have min to no rust. and around 100k. and i would check the back intake manifold gasket. they are prone to leaking and make sure the rear has no noices
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Avoid 93s, 95 and earlier is obd1 which will in some states make you exempt from emissions.
Major spots for rust I've seen are near the back seats and to the left of the gas cap.
Things to look for on the door sticker and glove box sticker is 1le and b4c. 1le are the factory light weight cars and the b4c was the police package.
I'm sure other people will chime in with all sorts of things to look for.
You looking for a t-top, hard top or vert? a4 m6?
Major spots for rust I've seen are near the back seats and to the left of the gas cap.
Things to look for on the door sticker and glove box sticker is 1le and b4c. 1le are the factory light weight cars and the b4c was the police package.
I'm sure other people will chime in with all sorts of things to look for.
You looking for a t-top, hard top or vert? a4 m6?
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Avoid 93s, 95 and earlier is obd1 which will in some states make you exempt from emissions.
Major spots for rust I've seen are near the back seats and to the left of the gas cap.
Things to look for on the door sticker and glove box sticker is 1le and b4c. 1le are the factory light weight cars and the b4c was the police package.
I'm sure other people will chime in with all sorts of things to look for.
You looking for a t-top, hard top or vert? a4 m6?
Major spots for rust I've seen are near the back seats and to the left of the gas cap.
Things to look for on the door sticker and glove box sticker is 1le and b4c. 1le are the factory light weight cars and the b4c was the police package.
I'm sure other people will chime in with all sorts of things to look for.
You looking for a t-top, hard top or vert? a4 m6?
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Get another SLP SS or Firehawk....they hold their value much better than "regular" models due to low production #'s; look better, have ram air....and have nice performance goodies on them. My 99 Firehawk has barely depreciated at all over the last 5 years; while my 94 Formula dropped like a rock lol.
And the only argument against getting an slp or firehawk is, what does he want to do with the car.
Looking to mod it get a regular one, if your looking to just enjoy it I'd agree with getting a "cool" version and taking care of it, should get more return on your investment in the event you wanna sell as well.
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Look better? slp ss only had the hood that was different visually? I could be wrong.
And the only argument against getting an slp or firehawk is, what does he want to do with the car.
Looking to mod it get a regular one, if your looking to just enjoy it I'd agree with getting a "cool" version and taking care of it, should get more return on your investment in the event you wanna sell as well.
And the only argument against getting an slp or firehawk is, what does he want to do with the car.
Looking to mod it get a regular one, if your looking to just enjoy it I'd agree with getting a "cool" version and taking care of it, should get more return on your investment in the event you wanna sell as well.
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#7
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i would like an ls1 but i just think i could get a nicer 5g lt1 rather than a 5g ls1, i could be wrong though? i would prefer to have a m6 car but will take any clean lt1 a4 or m6. i will drive the car everyday and do simple bolt ons when money permits. no convertibles, preferably t-tops but hard tops fine.
i miss my 95 everyday, it had 106,000 miles on it, drivers seat needed repaired, ac compressor,carpet, 3 or 4 big dents on the rear quarter, hold in the front passanger fender and needed a new bumper cover, it had slp ss hood, wheels, suspension, cai all emblems but it was a 1995 and i thought the ss came back in 1996. my uncle sold me the car for $2000 with the seat fixed, bumper cover,fender and ac compressor. if anyone has any knowledege or opionin on what that cars situation was id love to hear it because i never found out completely and still wondering.
i miss my 95 everyday, it had 106,000 miles on it, drivers seat needed repaired, ac compressor,carpet, 3 or 4 big dents on the rear quarter, hold in the front passanger fender and needed a new bumper cover, it had slp ss hood, wheels, suspension, cai all emblems but it was a 1995 and i thought the ss came back in 1996. my uncle sold me the car for $2000 with the seat fixed, bumper cover,fender and ac compressor. if anyone has any knowledege or opionin on what that cars situation was id love to hear it because i never found out completely and still wondering.
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Yes you are dead wrong lol. Wheels are SLP specific....17x9s, badges or course (firehawk stickers make it go FAST
) the SS camaro has a MUCH cooler ducktail spoiler. Some Firehawks have a Firehawk specific spoiler (most do not). They already have SLP stainless exhaust with fancy dual tips too
They have a Hurst shifter
May even have fancy embroidered floor mats (oohh ahhh)
Not to even mention the upgraded suspension....and maybe even an auburn diff.
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SLP exhaust was 2otl? or am i thinking of something different?
Didn't even think about the rims....granted they arn't anything special. lol
And shifter....I have an a4 so whats that
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I did know about the suspension, i just forgot to put it up lol
#9
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I think SS's, firehawks and ws6's are a waste of money. They hold their value better sure, but normally you can get an ls1 car for the money of one of those.
I would just look for a clean one. Ive popped hoods of these things on lots a couple times and you can tell in an instant if its a 1200$ car or a 3000$ car, or if you just need to walk away. Heavily modified can be good and bad. The mods just need to have been done right, if you see aftermarket ignition systems that are hacked together, spliced wire looms and sensors, its not a good sign.
After that I would check the pinch welds and subframes (because I didnt do this last time and found out my car has 2 rocker panels on one side!!!)
lastly drive it. Somethings like suspension will wear out, steering rag joint, steering rack/components. If it has a/c make sure it works, heat and blower fan if its important, I run a/c the entire time to make sure the car doesnt overheat or do anything funny. Window motors are hit and miss, manual windows would be good.
If dude selling the car doesnt want to cooperate when you look at all these things then back out. Take a check list, alot of the time youll forget what your looking for. Check the RPO codes for rear end ratio. Catalyst under the hood, no catalyst normally means its been wrecked. It sucks to walk away from a car you wanted, feel like you wasted your time and the sellers, but sometimes its the best thing.
Things like mileage can be scary, but if your going to mod it anyway the only thing your loosing is resale value. Optisparks fail, its useless to check for it, but if it was replaced make sure it was done with a good unit. If you find a good one and it has issues, walk away and research it, Ive had sellers act like 5 yr olds over this, but I was also glad I did it in the end.
I would just look for a clean one. Ive popped hoods of these things on lots a couple times and you can tell in an instant if its a 1200$ car or a 3000$ car, or if you just need to walk away. Heavily modified can be good and bad. The mods just need to have been done right, if you see aftermarket ignition systems that are hacked together, spliced wire looms and sensors, its not a good sign.
After that I would check the pinch welds and subframes (because I didnt do this last time and found out my car has 2 rocker panels on one side!!!)
lastly drive it. Somethings like suspension will wear out, steering rag joint, steering rack/components. If it has a/c make sure it works, heat and blower fan if its important, I run a/c the entire time to make sure the car doesnt overheat or do anything funny. Window motors are hit and miss, manual windows would be good.
If dude selling the car doesnt want to cooperate when you look at all these things then back out. Take a check list, alot of the time youll forget what your looking for. Check the RPO codes for rear end ratio. Catalyst under the hood, no catalyst normally means its been wrecked. It sucks to walk away from a car you wanted, feel like you wasted your time and the sellers, but sometimes its the best thing.
Things like mileage can be scary, but if your going to mod it anyway the only thing your loosing is resale value. Optisparks fail, its useless to check for it, but if it was replaced make sure it was done with a good unit. If you find a good one and it has issues, walk away and research it, Ive had sellers act like 5 yr olds over this, but I was also glad I did it in the end.
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its just an ls1 rear spoiler?
SLP exhaust was 2otl? or am i thinking of something different?
Didn't even think about the rims....granted they arn't anything special. lol
And shifter....I have an a4 so whats that![The Jester](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_jest.gif)
I did know about the suspension, i just forgot to put it up lol
SLP exhaust was 2otl? or am i thinking of something different?
Didn't even think about the rims....granted they arn't anything special. lol
And shifter....I have an a4 so whats that
![The Jester](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_jest.gif)
I did know about the suspension, i just forgot to put it up lol
#13
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to be honest...when the rest of the car resembles the mileage.
even 200k can be ok if it hasnt been beat on to much, pulling oil and trans(a4) dipsticks can tell you alot. But you have to talk yourself into reality, If you cant afford an engine rebuild, then do no even think about buying one with high mileage.
If its beat to ****, trashed interior and has 175k+ miles on it, you probably dont want it. All that says is the owner didnt care. It probably never got anything other then oil changes and air filters. Now if the interior is very well kept, the owner has service receipts, the outside has a few minor flaws but otherwise good, engine bay doesnt have nests in it, to me small amounts of dirt is better then none, none means pressure wash...and if its an lt1...pressure wash is NO GOOD!
you can also look at the owner. This doesnt always work, but It can still tell you alot. If someone talks more about maintenance then being sideways and going 140mph..thats normally a good thing.
even 200k can be ok if it hasnt been beat on to much, pulling oil and trans(a4) dipsticks can tell you alot. But you have to talk yourself into reality, If you cant afford an engine rebuild, then do no even think about buying one with high mileage.
If its beat to ****, trashed interior and has 175k+ miles on it, you probably dont want it. All that says is the owner didnt care. It probably never got anything other then oil changes and air filters. Now if the interior is very well kept, the owner has service receipts, the outside has a few minor flaws but otherwise good, engine bay doesnt have nests in it, to me small amounts of dirt is better then none, none means pressure wash...and if its an lt1...pressure wash is NO GOOD!
you can also look at the owner. This doesnt always work, but It can still tell you alot. If someone talks more about maintenance then being sideways and going 140mph..thats normally a good thing.
Last edited by trilkb; 05-22-2012 at 05:58 PM.
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the ls engine all the way. there more parts. no opti crap. coil on plug, alot better for diagnostics. alot better resell value better for tunning. the list goes on. and you can always switch the front nose to a lt1 front if you want too.
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I'm just being honest...I've had my LT1 car for 15 years (149k) and a LS1 car (160k) for 5+ years and the LS1 has given far fewer issues (it's never been modded other than headers however) and GM fixed a lot of small stuff too on the 98+ cars. IF the OP can afford a clean LS car then there's more potential there and it's a more reliable in my experience than a LT1 with it's less than optimal ignition system and you have to deal with the antiquated PCM that hardly anybody will dyno tune anymore
With the OP's budget in mind, I would get a LS car to mod, or a SLP LT1 car to cruise or just enjoy it as is and keep it as a future collector car.
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With the OP's budget in mind, I would get a LS car to mod, or a SLP LT1 car to cruise or just enjoy it as is and keep it as a future collector car.