optispark????????????????
#1
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
hi all looking to buy a 4th gen Camaro i can get it for cheap,but some one warned me about the optical spark distributor. I don't want to spend $1k on the conversion, I have heard even replacing them is a PITA. So how do you guys deal with them.
#5
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
1993-1994 = Non-Vented Optispark
1995-1997 = Vented Optispark
1998-2002 = No Optispark (Coil per Cylinder)
Getting that out of the way...
1. The Optispark, while it is a pain in the d*** to replace, is not difficult in terms of technical ability. It is a bolt in item, just takes a long time to get there.
2. The vented Optispark is better than the non-vented kind. Reason being if moisture does get into it (moisture and Optisparks don't mix, its like matter and antimatter) at least the venting system can evacuate that moisture.
3. The LS1 does not have an Optispark, they are coil per cylinder. The LT1 has the Optispark.
4. The LTCC conversion is roughly $1,000 but retains the weakest part of the system, the optical sensor so effectively for me, rules that out.
5. The popular 24x conversion, converts the entire motor to an LS1 computer and ignition system (coil-per-cylinder) and eliminates the weak optical sensor completely, however will set you back roughly $2,500 new.
6. Using all new parts and doing your own work will set you back roughly $700 to do an Optispark. (Using a new ACDelco unit, 4 gallons of Prestone 50/50, renting a pulley-puller for the Crank Pulley, new water pump and gaskets.)
4th generation Camaros had two "general" body styles. 1993-1997 had the LT1 motor and the Camaro got a facelift in 1998 and an upgrade to the LS1 motor until its sad demise in 2002.
The choice is yours to make. If you don't want to deal with the woes of the Optispark altogether, buy an LS1. If you don't mind it, and want the earlier body style, buy an LT1.
Hope this helps.
1995-1997 = Vented Optispark
1998-2002 = No Optispark (Coil per Cylinder)
Getting that out of the way...
1. The Optispark, while it is a pain in the d*** to replace, is not difficult in terms of technical ability. It is a bolt in item, just takes a long time to get there.
2. The vented Optispark is better than the non-vented kind. Reason being if moisture does get into it (moisture and Optisparks don't mix, its like matter and antimatter) at least the venting system can evacuate that moisture.
3. The LS1 does not have an Optispark, they are coil per cylinder. The LT1 has the Optispark.
4. The LTCC conversion is roughly $1,000 but retains the weakest part of the system, the optical sensor so effectively for me, rules that out.
5. The popular 24x conversion, converts the entire motor to an LS1 computer and ignition system (coil-per-cylinder) and eliminates the weak optical sensor completely, however will set you back roughly $2,500 new.
6. Using all new parts and doing your own work will set you back roughly $700 to do an Optispark. (Using a new ACDelco unit, 4 gallons of Prestone 50/50, renting a pulley-puller for the Crank Pulley, new water pump and gaskets.)
4th generation Camaros had two "general" body styles. 1993-1997 had the LT1 motor and the Camaro got a facelift in 1998 and an upgrade to the LS1 motor until its sad demise in 2002.
The choice is yours to make. If you don't want to deal with the woes of the Optispark altogether, buy an LS1. If you don't mind it, and want the earlier body style, buy an LT1.
Hope this helps.
Trending Topics
#10
11 Second Club
iTrader: (1)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
The LT1 is capable of more power than most expect. Just like anything else a LOT are halfassed and give the rest a bad name.
I have beaten sprayed LS cars at the track, that not only says something good about what I have done with the LT1 in my pig of a car but also says something about just how badly someone can screwup modding a car because I should not be beating sprayed cars a lot lighter than mine unless they did something stupid.
I have beaten sprayed LS cars at the track, that not only says something good about what I have done with the LT1 in my pig of a car but also says something about just how badly someone can screwup modding a car because I should not be beating sprayed cars a lot lighter than mine unless they did something stupid.
#11
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
The opti isnt as bad as you might think. Its just expensive if youre uncareful.
The bad thing about LT1s, is that they are mostly all beat up and mistreated. And the ones that are in good condition, are more expensive than LS1s. Id do the same and look for a clean ls1.
The bad thing about LT1s, is that they are mostly all beat up and mistreated. And the ones that are in good condition, are more expensive than LS1s. Id do the same and look for a clean ls1.
#13
TECH Fanatic
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
The optispark is relatively simple to replace, and if you enjoy working on stuff you might actually enjoy it. Additionally, if you're paying 700 bucks for the car, you may have much more to look forward to than optispark fun.
If you buy the car, search and ask a lot of questions before tearing into it. The V8 will be much more fun to drive. Is the car a manual or an automatic?
If you buy the car, search and ask a lot of questions before tearing into it. The V8 will be much more fun to drive. Is the car a manual or an automatic?
#15
TECH Junkie
iTrader: (15)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Like others said, it's easy to do, but just takes a while to get done. easily done in an evening or over the weekend in freetime.
Factory units can last 100-200k miles in many cases, so if you replace it with another oem one, you should be fine for a long time.
It's usually when people install them wrong, put in cheap aftermarket **** parts, spin them far beyond factory RPM redline (say in a built motor), or get excessive moisture on them that they start to have problems.
Many people will also blame the opti without investigating the issue. Ignition control module, ignition coil, plugs, wires, fuel related problems, among a few other things often give people issues that some automatically assume is the opti.
All that being said, don't replace the opti unless it's acutally bad and you have it narrowed down to that. You're probably more prone to mess it up "upgrading" or replacing it when it's not broken.
If it ain't broke, don't fix it
Factory units can last 100-200k miles in many cases, so if you replace it with another oem one, you should be fine for a long time.
It's usually when people install them wrong, put in cheap aftermarket **** parts, spin them far beyond factory RPM redline (say in a built motor), or get excessive moisture on them that they start to have problems.
Many people will also blame the opti without investigating the issue. Ignition control module, ignition coil, plugs, wires, fuel related problems, among a few other things often give people issues that some automatically assume is the opti.
All that being said, don't replace the opti unless it's acutally bad and you have it narrowed down to that. You're probably more prone to mess it up "upgrading" or replacing it when it's not broken.
If it ain't broke, don't fix it
![Cheers!!](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_cheers.gif)