Gm 847???
#2
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Not a good cam unless your ready to rev it to 6,500rpm+ where its beyond the range to make reliable power for stock bottom end. You'll be holding back a lot of power with stock heads too. The GM847 will sound nice and choppy at idle, but will perform bad with your setup.
Good cam would be a custom cam, or a CC503.
CC503: (224/230 .535/.544 112lsa) w/ 1.6RR
Good cam would be a custom cam, or a CC503.
CC503: (224/230 .535/.544 112lsa) w/ 1.6RR
Last edited by LT1; 06-12-2012 at 03:16 AM.
#3
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Not a good cam unless your ready to rev it to 6,500rpm+ where its beyond the range to make reliable power for stock bottom end. You'll be holding back a lot of power with stock heads too. The GM847 will sound nice and choppy at idle, but will perform bad with your setup.
Good cam would be a custom cam, or a CC503.
CC503: (224/230 .535/.544 112lsa) w/ 1.6RR
Good cam would be a custom cam, or a CC503.
CC503: (224/230 .535/.544 112lsa) w/ 1.6RR
Define "perform bad"
I want to do a 847 for sound alone. If I dont get max power then so what.
Will it perform worse than stock?
#4
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Be prepared to get a ton of flack for wanting to install a cam for sound alone. Maybe one of those electric BOVs would interest you as well?
Truthfully I'd be embarrassed as **** if someone pulled up to me thinking my car was a beast because of the way it sounded only to get **** on because it was all bark and no bite.
Usable RPM for that cam is 6500+ - far beyond what the stock heads (and bottom end) can (reliably) support. You'd have **** for low end and an incredibly limited high end with not much usable power inbetween.
I did the big cam/stock heads thing and it was a HUGE mistake. Wasted 4 years of my LT1s life on it.
Truthfully I'd be embarrassed as **** if someone pulled up to me thinking my car was a beast because of the way it sounded only to get **** on because it was all bark and no bite.
Usable RPM for that cam is 6500+ - far beyond what the stock heads (and bottom end) can (reliably) support. You'd have **** for low end and an incredibly limited high end with not much usable power inbetween.
I did the big cam/stock heads thing and it was a HUGE mistake. Wasted 4 years of my LT1s life on it.
#5
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Under 3000 rpm will be miserable, WAY worse than stock, and thats where you spend most of your time driving your car. And only spinning that huge cam to 6000 (safe) with no supporting mods will leave you slower than a hotcamed motor, or even a full bolton car. I agree with the electric BOV, a nitrous purge kit, some whistler tips, or cutting your exhaust off after the manifolds and hanging dual 6 inch tips off the bumper sound like better ideas for you. Perhaps some underglow and NOS stickers will help you go faster too. And cant forget about a wing, all real race cars have a wing because it helps keep the rear planted at highway speeds.
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To do all that work just for "sound" would be exhausting in the end. To me, it's like taking off a girl's bra and finding it stuffed with tissues. And that's coming from a girl.
A CC503 would be a excellent performing cam, and sounds good too.
A CC503 would be a excellent performing cam, and sounds good too.
#11
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Here's a scenario for you....
There's a kid in my town with a "built" 383 LT1 with stock heads, a GM847 and 1.5 RR.....(Just a big clusterf*ck of parts)
Long story short, I beat him with my bolt-on LT1......
He went to all that work for an even slower car, don't be that dude. Like when I was young and dumber (still only 22 lol) I loved running around in my 87 Trans Am with straight pipes and being loud everywhere thinking I had a fast car but when it came down to it, I was just being a ****** 16 yr old with a 15 second T/A haha.
Buying a cam purely for sound is just a waste and especially having the 847 on a stock LT1, it will just be very unpleasant to drive.
There's a kid in my town with a "built" 383 LT1 with stock heads, a GM847 and 1.5 RR.....(Just a big clusterf*ck of parts)
Long story short, I beat him with my bolt-on LT1......
He went to all that work for an even slower car, don't be that dude. Like when I was young and dumber (still only 22 lol) I loved running around in my 87 Trans Am with straight pipes and being loud everywhere thinking I had a fast car but when it came down to it, I was just being a ****** 16 yr old with a 15 second T/A haha.
Buying a cam purely for sound is just a waste and especially having the 847 on a stock LT1, it will just be very unpleasant to drive.
#12
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Cam sound is largely about overlap, timing and idle rpm.
My advise for getting a cam for sound would be get a smaller cam on a tighter LSA to keep the power down lower in the rpm range where you can use it and keep the idle set to the low side.
No need to just order the biggest cam you can find and hurt lowspeed performance and manners.
Far as the OP goes the 847 is more duration than most of the fast stock shortblock cars run. I would go with less duration, actually I have gone with less duration on all three cams I have put in my own car and the two we put in a friend's cars.
My advise for getting a cam for sound would be get a smaller cam on a tighter LSA to keep the power down lower in the rpm range where you can use it and keep the idle set to the low side.
No need to just order the biggest cam you can find and hurt lowspeed performance and manners.
Far as the OP goes the 847 is more duration than most of the fast stock shortblock cars run. I would go with less duration, actually I have gone with less duration on all three cams I have put in my own car and the two we put in a friend's cars.
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Any cam can sound mean as hell but perform like absolute crap. If you want a cam that sounds mean but will still perform have a custom cam ground for you and your needs.
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Now that you guys have flamed me, anyone care to answer the question?
Will it perform worse?
What with an 847 make for power with a lets say 6100 rev limiter?
Has anyone every did this?
I dont think I would ever do it because of the supporting mods needed(clutch, rear end, etc) but curious if its something everyone says not to do because...everyone else says not to do it.
I just think this is the meanest sounding LT1 out there:
http://youtu.be/F5ZBNAmx9WM
is it the lack of exhaust I am hearing?
Will it perform worse?
What with an 847 make for power with a lets say 6100 rev limiter?
Has anyone every did this?
I dont think I would ever do it because of the supporting mods needed(clutch, rear end, etc) but curious if its something everyone says not to do because...everyone else says not to do it.
I just think this is the meanest sounding LT1 out there:
http://youtu.be/F5ZBNAmx9WM
is it the lack of exhaust I am hearing?
#15
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I ran a LE 236/246 cam a while back and we've also run the cc503 and while there is a difference in sound it's not as much as you might think. The cc503 will still sound pretty nasty while being a much better street cam with those stock heads. My old 97 WS6 had a cc306 which is a little smaller than an 847 cam ran like crap until about 3000 rpm. It was miserable to drive and that was with mildly touched LT4 heads. I bought the car like that but I would not have done that if I had built the motor. I really don't think you'll like driving that thing with an 847 and stock heads.
For many many years people have been overcamming cars. It's a mistake that most people regret.
For many many years people have been overcamming cars. It's a mistake that most people regret.
#16
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Trust me do not do it without heads. With heads it is a great cam. Look up KWIK WS6, He had some ported LT4s from several years ago, before LE or AI was around, that cam and bolt ons. He was making something around 414 IIRC and it ran hard. This is the same philosophy as LS1 guys putting in a cam around that size on stock heads, it just doesnt work well
#19
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You wont have usable power with GM847's rpm range, and more importantly making any type of reliable power on a stock engine.
Most people swap cam's to go faster and better track times. If the cam choice isnt the best choice why bother replacing it?
If all your looking for is sound, thats fine and dandy
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Last edited by LT1; 06-13-2012 at 06:37 AM.