what size pushrod?
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 79
Likes: 0
From: Aurora, Colorado
i think i will go with stock. have heard from two different guys with the same setup. measuring is a good idea tho too. just trying to save some time but i guess with a rebuilt engine i should just not be lazy lol. thanks guys
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Brett Foote
He is using my old heads/springs and camshaft and the same thickness head gasket. I measured my pushrods and came up with stock length. When I say he is using my old heads and cam, I mean literally, I sold them to him lol. So my recommendation was use the same length I did cause it was perfect on my setup. However measuring a second time would still be a good idea in case I was off for whatever reason.
TECH Veteran
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 4,985
Likes: 112
given the effort it is to do head swap, spend $10 on a PR check tool and measure.
Milled heads, decked block, thinner head gasket, cam with ?? lift, higher ratio RR...ALL effect valve train geometry. Typically shorter PR are needed BUT every motor is diffrent.
You could take the 7.200" stock length and mark a valve tip with sharpie, lash and rotate engine a few times by hand, remove RR and see where witness mark is. It should be dead center with as narrow a swipe as possible. a mark closer to exhaust manifold would indicate PR is to long and closer to intake side to short.
when using a PR tool set it in increments of .025 since aftermarket PR are made in those increments in shorter or longer sizes. Yes if you are building a $50k race motor you get the length to within .001 and have custom ones made.
regardless of length get .080 thick wall PR and hardened ones if running guide plates.
Milled heads, decked block, thinner head gasket, cam with ?? lift, higher ratio RR...ALL effect valve train geometry. Typically shorter PR are needed BUT every motor is diffrent.
You could take the 7.200" stock length and mark a valve tip with sharpie, lash and rotate engine a few times by hand, remove RR and see where witness mark is. It should be dead center with as narrow a swipe as possible. a mark closer to exhaust manifold would indicate PR is to long and closer to intake side to short.
when using a PR tool set it in increments of .025 since aftermarket PR are made in those increments in shorter or longer sizes. Yes if you are building a $50k race motor you get the length to within .001 and have custom ones made.
regardless of length get .080 thick wall PR and hardened ones if running guide plates.
10 Second Club
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 2,630
Likes: 28
The tools to do it correctly are so cheap. You get the adjustable pushrod checker that is $11.95
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/TFS-9000/
Then get some checking springs for $2.95
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CCA-4758-2/
By using the checking springs you do not need to make a "solid" lifter. There will be no deflection. The springs are super easy for even the adjustable pushrod to compress without any side movement or hydraulic lifter collapse. Now you can also check piston to valve clearance with your new heads/cam package.
Total price under $15, no excuse not to buy them.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/TFS-9000/
Then get some checking springs for $2.95
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CCA-4758-2/
By using the checking springs you do not need to make a "solid" lifter. There will be no deflection. The springs are super easy for even the adjustable pushrod to compress without any side movement or hydraulic lifter collapse. Now you can also check piston to valve clearance with your new heads/cam package.
Total price under $15, no excuse not to buy them.
He is using my old heads/springs and camshaft and the same thickness head gasket. I measured my pushrods and came up with stock length. When I say he is using my old heads and cam, I mean literally, I sold them to him lol. So my recommendation was use the same length I did cause it was perfect on my setup. However measuring a second time would still be a good idea in case I was off for whatever reason.
