what size pushrod?
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Or u could put one on and color the tip of the vavle. Put it through a few revolutions and see if the mark it made is centered, its not a science but it will put u in the ballpark.
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i think i will go with stock. have heard from two different guys with the same setup. measuring is a good idea tho too. just trying to save some time but i guess with a rebuilt engine i should just not be lazy lol. thanks guys
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He is using my old heads/springs and camshaft and the same thickness head gasket. I measured my pushrods and came up with stock length. When I say he is using my old heads and cam, I mean literally, I sold them to him lol. So my recommendation was use the same length I did cause it was perfect on my setup. However measuring a second time would still be a good idea in case I was off for whatever reason.
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given the effort it is to do head swap, spend $10 on a PR check tool and measure.
Milled heads, decked block, thinner head gasket, cam with ?? lift, higher ratio RR...ALL effect valve train geometry. Typically shorter PR are needed BUT every motor is diffrent.
You could take the 7.200" stock length and mark a valve tip with sharpie, lash and rotate engine a few times by hand, remove RR and see where witness mark is. It should be dead center with as narrow a swipe as possible. a mark closer to exhaust manifold would indicate PR is to long and closer to intake side to short.
when using a PR tool set it in increments of .025 since aftermarket PR are made in those increments in shorter or longer sizes. Yes if you are building a $50k race motor you get the length to within .001 and have custom ones made.
regardless of length get .080 thick wall PR and hardened ones if running guide plates.
Milled heads, decked block, thinner head gasket, cam with ?? lift, higher ratio RR...ALL effect valve train geometry. Typically shorter PR are needed BUT every motor is diffrent.
You could take the 7.200" stock length and mark a valve tip with sharpie, lash and rotate engine a few times by hand, remove RR and see where witness mark is. It should be dead center with as narrow a swipe as possible. a mark closer to exhaust manifold would indicate PR is to long and closer to intake side to short.
when using a PR tool set it in increments of .025 since aftermarket PR are made in those increments in shorter or longer sizes. Yes if you are building a $50k race motor you get the length to within .001 and have custom ones made.
regardless of length get .080 thick wall PR and hardened ones if running guide plates.
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The tools to do it correctly are so cheap. You get the adjustable pushrod checker that is $11.95
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/TFS-9000/
Then get some checking springs for $2.95
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CCA-4758-2/
By using the checking springs you do not need to make a "solid" lifter. There will be no deflection. The springs are super easy for even the adjustable pushrod to compress without any side movement or hydraulic lifter collapse. Now you can also check piston to valve clearance with your new heads/cam package.
Total price under $15, no excuse not to buy them.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/TFS-9000/
Then get some checking springs for $2.95
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CCA-4758-2/
By using the checking springs you do not need to make a "solid" lifter. There will be no deflection. The springs are super easy for even the adjustable pushrod to compress without any side movement or hydraulic lifter collapse. Now you can also check piston to valve clearance with your new heads/cam package.
Total price under $15, no excuse not to buy them.
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He is using my old heads/springs and camshaft and the same thickness head gasket. I measured my pushrods and came up with stock length. When I say he is using my old heads and cam, I mean literally, I sold them to him lol. So my recommendation was use the same length I did cause it was perfect on my setup. However measuring a second time would still be a good idea in case I was off for whatever reason.
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One of my good friends has one, ill just have him.bring it over when he comes to help with my t-56 conversion. Also do I check all the lengths or is just one good enough