LT1 build.
Again after putting this project to the side to work on other cars I got working on this again.
Figured out I only had to swap 2 wires where the engine harness plugs into the interior harness. Now the car primes the pump and turns over on the key but then I was fighting a no start issue and figured that out and I think I am now at the end of my rope with this build.
What It comes down to is I will have to spend another 300-350 to get it running but at some time you have to draw the line on money and time spent on a build and so far this build has gone on for 4 years and about 8k.
Figured out I only had to swap 2 wires where the engine harness plugs into the interior harness. Now the car primes the pump and turns over on the key but then I was fighting a no start issue and figured that out and I think I am now at the end of my rope with this build.
What It comes down to is I will have to spend another 300-350 to get it running but at some time you have to draw the line on money and time spent on a build and so far this build has gone on for 4 years and about 8k.
TECH Addict
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 2,610
Likes: 4
From: Maricopa, AZ
Again after putting this project to the side to work on other cars I got working on this again.
Figured out I only had to swap 2 wires where the engine harness plugs into the interior harness. Now the car primes the pump and turns over on the key but then I was fighting a no start issue and figured that out and I think I am now at the end of my rope with this build.
What It comes down to is I will have to spend another 300-350 to get it running but at some time you have to draw the line on money and time spent on a build and so far this build has gone on for 4 years and about 8k.
Figured out I only had to swap 2 wires where the engine harness plugs into the interior harness. Now the car primes the pump and turns over on the key but then I was fighting a no start issue and figured that out and I think I am now at the end of my rope with this build.
What It comes down to is I will have to spend another 300-350 to get it running but at some time you have to draw the line on money and time spent on a build and so far this build has gone on for 4 years and about 8k.
No I need to order 2 parts that will cost 270 ish shipped then pull the timing cover and oil pan and replacing the gaskets and **** will push it around 300-350.
Just hard to justify finishing it when I have a vette and Trans am already and I'm getting married in just over 2 months.
Just hard to justify finishing it when I have a vette and Trans am already and I'm getting married in just over 2 months.
TECH Addict
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 2,610
Likes: 4
From: Maricopa, AZ
Cool man, I know the feeling. But in the end, situations like that are loose-loose if you don't put that little extra into it. If you don't do it you can't drive it, and if you can't drive it it's pointless. But if you tried to sell it you'd get no where near what you put into it either and putting that extra $350 into it at that point will increase it's value tremendously so even if you decided to sell it you'd still need to fix it.
I know the dilemma.
I know the dilemma.
So the new 24x crank reluctor wheel, timing cover gasket kit and oil pan gasket should be here tomorrow. The second crank key should be here Friday, oil pan goes to the welder any day now and the updated cam sensor plate should be here next week.
In the mean time I've been installing the 3 point sub frame connectors, drive shaft loop, tubular rear lower control arms and tubular adjustable pan hard bar.
It's been a long build with a lot of headaches but hopefully coming to some sort of conclusion soon and start with the long tuning sessions and seeing what breaks lol.
In the mean time I've been installing the 3 point sub frame connectors, drive shaft loop, tubular rear lower control arms and tubular adjustable pan hard bar.
It's been a long build with a lot of headaches but hopefully coming to some sort of conclusion soon and start with the long tuning sessions and seeing what breaks lol.
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Verdad Gallardo Sub frame connectors, drive shaft loop, 24x crank wheel, and front of motor mostly put back together. Waiting on my oil pan to be finished and just remembered I had drilled and slotted rear brake rotors with up graded pads sitting on the shelf.
Waiting to here back from EFI Connections on whether they are going to exchange the cam sensor plate or make me purchase a new one.
Waiting to here back from EFI Connections on whether they are going to exchange the cam sensor plate or make me purchase a new one.
Oil pan is on and motor is dropped back on the k member.
The new cam plate showed up, big thanks to EFI Connections for exchanging it even though the old one was scared up thanks to the dowl pin on the cam.
Hopefully have the engine all put back together shortly then just need to top off fluids and try to fire it for the first time in 4 years!.
The new cam plate showed up, big thanks to EFI Connections for exchanging it even though the old one was scared up thanks to the dowl pin on the cam.
Hopefully have the engine all put back together shortly then just need to top off fluids and try to fire it for the first time in 4 years!.
It's funny that this car running roughly 3 ft of exhaust after the turbo and dumps by the bell housing with no muffler or anything is quiter then my corvette with full exhaust ( long tubes, no cats and a SLP loud mouth)
Still plugging away at little issues, I fix one and find two more, just fighting leaks. My SJM line lock was leaking, tightened that then found the distribution block was leaking, fixed that and then noticed my turbowerx scavenger pump was showing signs of a slow leak and figured I just needed to pull the fitting out and put some Teflon on the threads and that's when I found the composite housing was cracked. It's never been ran but is over a year old so I had to cough up $40 for a new housing which I'm not really happy with but life goes on.
Still need to bleed the brakes, bleed the clutch hydraulics and do a final loom on the wiring harness.
Still need to bleed the brakes, bleed the clutch hydraulics and do a final loom on the wiring harness.
Well the clutch turned into a fun project, turns out the pedal assembly I got was slightly bent and I thought I got it straight but didn't so it was putting the input shaft on the master in a bind when pushing the pedal so I had to come up with a different mounting point for the master on the pedal and I must say I'm pretty happy with the outcome!
Brakes good, scavenger pump housing is on its way and wiring is out of the car for final looming.
Brakes good, scavenger pump housing is on its way and wiring is out of the car for final looming.
