Stock shortblock rebuild
Stock shortblock rebuild So I found a complete LT1 engine cheap at the local pull yard, where I could sell all the accessories and heads off and make my money back or more on it. I have some slight blowby on my current engine, so I was thinking about putting in ARP rod and main bolts or studs, new good rings, hone, new good bearings, new Melling Select HP pump, and deck the surface to zero to maximize compression as much as possible.
This way I would have a cheap shortblock that should be able to handle say 6800 rpm and over 400-420 rwhp(M6) reliably, right? I'm planning 12.5:1 compression on E85, already have EB Porting heads, will port the intake, and then of course custom LE cam.
Assuming the cylinders are within spec to simply hone, would using the stock pistons and rods hold up well under this setup? What would be the BEST bearings and rings to use for this?
This way I would have a cheap shortblock that should be able to handle say 6800 rpm and over 400-420 rwhp(M6) reliably, right? I'm planning 12.5:1 compression on E85, already have EB Porting heads, will port the intake, and then of course custom LE cam.
Assuming the cylinders are within spec to simply hone, would using the stock pistons and rods hold up well under this setup? What would be the BEST bearings and rings to use for this?
If your car is currently running with no problems then why not take it to a 355 and put some nice pistons in it or do rods and pistons?
Make sure if you do just a rebuild that the ring kit for the pistons are metric ( ran into that problem once before) and i ran Clevit H series bearings.
Make sure if you do just a rebuild that the ring kit for the pistons are metric ( ran into that problem once before) and i ran Clevit H series bearings.
Well I don't want to spend too much as this is a budget build. Mine runs great except for the blowby issue. I originally just planned on upgrading my current cam from 226/226 .582/.582 to 232/240 .592/.595 on the existing stock short-block for more power, but now that I found a complete engine for so cheap, I figured I might as well do a budget rebuild and strengthen it up with better bolts, bearings, and rings while I'm at it. If I have to end up boring it due to the cylinder wear I will, but I'd like to stay cheaper on this build if possible.
Basically I want to know what is the best way to make a strong high compression stock shortblock? ARP rod/main bolts and Melling select oil pump are a given, along with rehoning cylinders and decking the block, milling the heads, and polishing the crank.
1) What piston rings would be best for a high octane only (105) E85, 12.5-13:1 N/A stock bottom end engine?
2) Which are the best bearings to use? Clevite H?
3) Would I have to rebalance the assembly if using stock pistons/rods/crank?
4)
1) What piston rings would be best for a high octane only (105) E85, 12.5-13:1 N/A stock bottom end engine?
2) Which are the best bearings to use? Clevite H?
3) Would I have to rebalance the assembly if using stock pistons/rods/crank?
4)
If i were you i would get different pistons since they use hypers from the factory, i would go with a nice forged flat top for high compression and with that you will have a couole choices of rings depening on if you ever eant to spray etc. Get the bottom end balanced and go.
Well I will never run spray as my car is strictly for autox/RR. Also with the cooler burn and running temps and detonation resistance of E85 vs gas, 12.5-13:1 cr is no problem at all for E85, actually most are running much more than that on E85. That's why I thought I would stay with the stock hyper pistons. Hyper pistons should be fine N/A <6800 RPM I would think?
So I found a complete LT1 engine cheap at the local pull yard, where I could sell all the accessories and heads off and make my money back or more on it. I have some slight blowby on my current engine, so I was thinking about putting in ARP rod and main bolts or studs, new good rings, hone, new good bearings, new Melling Select HP pump, and deck the surface to zero to maximize compression as much as possible.
This way I would have a cheap shortblock that should be able to handle say 6800 rpm and over 400-420 rwhp(M6) reliably, right? I'm planning 12.5:1 compression on E85, already have EB Porting heads, will port the intake, and then of course custom LE cam.
Assuming the cylinders are within spec to simply hone, would using the stock pistons and rods hold up well under this setup? What would be the BEST bearings and rings to use for this?
Assuming the cylinders are within spec to simply hone, would using the stock pistons and rods hold up well under this setup? What would be the BEST bearings and rings to use for this?
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Verdad Gallardo It is a 94 engine, I am getting it today from a local junkyard for $200, complete long block with accessories.
I already run E85, been running it for 5 years now, so I wont have to convert anything, but I'm only about 11.6-11.7 cr. More compression will only help to maximize the fuel.
49cc heads (only 3cc smaller than current) + .000-.005 deck + .026 head gasket + stock pistons = 13:1 CR.
I may not need 6800 rpm for that power, but I'd rather have a shortblock that can handle more rpm than it needs than one that is at its limit everytime it's at its shift point.
I already run E85, been running it for 5 years now, so I wont have to convert anything, but I'm only about 11.6-11.7 cr. More compression will only help to maximize the fuel.
49cc heads (only 3cc smaller than current) + .000-.005 deck + .026 head gasket + stock pistons = 13:1 CR.
I may not need 6800 rpm for that power, but I'd rather have a shortblock that can handle more rpm than it needs than one that is at its limit everytime it's at its shift point.
http://kb-silvolite.com/calc.php?action=comp
49cc heads, 4.5cc stock pistons, .026 x 4.100 head gasket, 4.00 bore, .005 deck, 3.48" stroke = 12.9 SCR.
49cc heads, 4.5cc stock pistons, .026 x 4.100 head gasket, 4.00 bore, .005 deck, 3.48" stroke = 12.9 SCR.
