Track results
#21
There are some old AFR castings on it, measure about 214-216cc. The tune is safe at this point, and from 5000-6200 is pretty close, and that's where the car launches... I wouldn't waste my time otherwise. I'd like to run 6.699 NA by the end of the season (October) and 5.999 on nitrous. Not too lofty but not easy either. Need the cage installed, I let off at the 1/8 and I'm coasting to 11.70s at 80mph
Edit: Even with a 4" oval intake from fog light opening. I still saw the same 1.5" of vacuum and the car going rich above 7000 with no improvement in MPH over the filtered intake. TB might be worth a few HP I think?
Edit: Even with a 4" oval intake from fog light opening. I still saw the same 1.5" of vacuum and the car going rich above 7000 with no improvement in MPH over the filtered intake. TB might be worth a few HP I think?
He noticed a 2mph difference in his setup.
#23
#26
#27
TECH Fanatic
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Kingfisher Oklahoma
Posts: 1,157
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Very nice beginnig results. Ive been trying to get my MAP readings closer to 100 as well and al I can get to is 96s best!! I run the AS&M 58mm, stock MAF and open Box (stock opened up RA hood). With the filter in place it drops just .01.
#28
9 Second Club
iTrader: (7)
nice runs steve!!! if you want to stop the rear from unloading too quickly move the torque arm down on the tunnel mount a bit......if your IC is too far back it will do this i had the same issue......if the instant center is too far back it will shock load then unload quick and spin.....if its too far forward it will be the opposite....need to find the happy medium for the car.....also yes keep the *** end stiff on compression and rebound and it will help drive the wheels into the ground instead of into the body.....also the front will need to be played with once you get the power to it and the rear straightened out to keep traction and keep it moving quick.......i found because my converter is spec'd way out of wack in my car its faster pulling a 2-3 foot wheel stand vs keeping it on the ground.....the motor revs up faster pulling the front end up rather than pushing the car forward, so i get into power faster and its quicker that way.........then again its apples to oranges there....im launching off a 2200rpm foot brake lol
#29
Thanks for the input mike and joel, very helpful. I just have a UMI TA but it's in the top hole up front. Then again since the front mount pivots and is free to slide back and forth, how much will that affect the IC? You think bottom hole on LCAs is fine? I don't think the anti-squat is too much as the car is very low, but adjusting LCA angle with the UMI style TA might be the only way to make a noticeable IC change. Will try upping the tire pressure first, then moving the TA around. I have all stock front suspension except the QA1s, I think taking 120 pounds off the front with brakes and tubular stuff would help tremendously in getting the car moving forward, especially with rod-ends and getting rid of all the friction fighting the weight transfer. I could probably go full stiff rebound up front with rod-ends and it would transfer better than it does now on full loose.
#31
You need to just move down here where our track days are still in full swing in October .
.
#32
Yea, tough economy up here, no money. No one is coming out to the track, and they have pretty nice facilities here which just means more maintenance and higher operating costs. Dumpy so cal tracks would get 400 cars and 2500 spectators every week. Here they have a nice facility, good track surface, no muffler requirements, etc and no one turns out. Sucks.