LT1-LT4 Modifications 1993-97 Gen II Small Block V8

First time digging into this car, opti replacement & more.

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Old 07-08-2012, 12:44 PM
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Default First time digging into this car, opti replacement & more.

So I have a few questions while in the middle of this.

1. The A.I.R pump looks like it has to come off for this job? ugh. I would/want to take this time to just delete it but that'll throw a code. Will this cause any performance issues or drivability?

2. While i'm in there I want to delete the air system & change out the t stat. The car has an unknown cam & tune already on it, can a mail order tune save the existing tune and just add on those 2 mods? I don't want to change it since i don't know the extent of the mods.

3. This is the most troubling possibly. When i took out the old tstat it fell apart. (see picture) I believe there's suppose to be a nub at the end holding this all in place, mine came out without that This mean it's in there somewhere? Maybe it stayed in the water pump.

4. I want to take the rad fans out but for the life of me can't unplug the fans. There's no room for my hands. I don't really have a line of sight from the bottom just laying on the ground feeling up there. Is there a trick?


Old 07-08-2012, 01:03 PM
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Deletign the AIR system will throw a code...it will not effect driveability, but if you are having the tune altered, they ca ndelete that for you and you wont have to worry about it.

If that piece of the TStat broke off and is in the cooling system, I would try and flush it out first...to change the opti you have to take the water pump off so do everything yo ucan to make sure it is not inside there! If you have to, take off the cover plate and make sure. I would not give up till I found it.

For the radiator fans, a small flathead screwdriver will give you the ability to pop the plugs off...just use it to lift the clip holding it in place and pull the plug out. Simple.

Mail order tunes are OK....but I will never use another after getting a full dyno tune on mine and my tuner is cheap so it is WELL worth it. I would make every effort to figure out what mods your car has...either that or change them to your own.
Old 07-08-2012, 01:09 PM
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Thanks for the quick reply, yeah the tstat thing is what has my worried at the moment, a new water pump is going on anyway but if it's not in there and the cooling system instead it can cause problems?

I have the fans dropped enough to get to the other side of the water pump easily

And just clarifying though, I know they wipe PCM's when they tune dont they? I wouldn't want them to store it and just add my new mods. I guess i'll email MadZ and maybe lt1pcm or w/e the other favorite tuner is.
Old 07-08-2012, 01:10 PM
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Also, if you are going to be replacing the opti, make sure you put it together properly! Red loctite the screws that hold the rotor in place, and use silicone around the outer edges of the cap. This will help keep the rotor in place for a long time, and ensure no moisture gets inside the opti. Also you have a vented opti, so make sure the vent tubes are hooked up correctly.
Old 07-08-2012, 01:12 PM
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Oh i should update my signature. The car is a 94 formula, not the z28. 95's and up have the vented opti's i thought? or 96.
Old 07-08-2012, 01:12 PM
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They can pull your old tune off first, the tweek it to what you need and re-flash it. I also recommend getting the PCM socketed since you will already be sending it to a tuner. MadZ socketed mine and I am SUPER happy with it.

If that piece is still in the cooling system, it could get swept back around to the water pump and cause damage. I would not stop till I found it...
Old 07-08-2012, 01:12 PM
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If that is the case...I recommend the MSD Cap and Rotor kit. it helps the non-vented opti's
Old 07-08-2012, 01:21 PM
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The 94 won't throw a code if you delete the AIR pump. Just leave a good fuse in the system and you're good.
Old 07-08-2012, 01:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Z28Camaro30Ann
They can pull your old tune off first, the tweek it to what you need and re-flash it. I also recommend getting the PCM socketed since you will already be sending it to a tuner. MadZ socketed mine and I am SUPER happy with it.

If that piece is still in the cooling system, it could get swept back around to the water pump and cause damage. I would not stop till I found it...
ugh i know lol. Thanks.


Originally Posted by RamAir95TA
The 94 won't throw a code if you delete the AIR pump. Just leave a good fuse in the system and you're good.
Thanks! If that's the case i'll just remove that and put back a stock tStat for the time being.




Also i see now the whole air pump does need to come out... i thought i could get away with removing 2/3 bolts and having it slid out the way, nope the whole piece holding the pump holds one of the water pump bolts it looks like.


Anyone know off the top of their head what size fitting i can use to do the Throttle body bypass?
Old 07-08-2012, 02:04 PM
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And here's the rookie question, how do i get that pulley below the alternator off to remove the last water pump bolt?
Old 07-08-2012, 02:17 PM
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That is the power steering pulley. It doesnt come off easily. I always just used a short socket, a u-joint and a 3/8 drive ratchet with a short extension.
Old 07-08-2012, 02:38 PM
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Alright thanks. What's the u joint used for? Or how?
Old 07-08-2012, 03:09 PM
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all you need for power steering pump is a 10 mm socket and possibly an extension, use the holes in the pulley to get to the mounting bolts...
Old 07-08-2012, 03:40 PM
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A short extension and a socket gets the job done without removing the pulley.
Old 07-08-2012, 04:46 PM
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Originally Posted by lt1slowz28
all you need for power steering pump is a 10 mm socket and possibly an extension, use the holes in the pulley to get to the mounting bolts...
Thanks!


I'm down to the opti and the pulley physically ontop of the opti now after a break. How do i get that off correctly? I obviously see the 3 bolts holding it, I've marked the top point on it with marker if needed. But my question is it's suppose to spin when i'm removing it? I ask because I didn't want to continue if this needs to stay put.
Old 07-08-2012, 05:05 PM
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the crank pulley/balancer?... use something to stop the motor from being able to turn over. I.E. a pry bar in the flexplate teeth

then crack the three bolts loose and pull off.
Old 07-08-2012, 05:07 PM
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Dude....I hate to be the dick now, but do you know what that pulley is?? Do you know what you are doing?? If you have to ask that question, and I know you are a noob, but JESUS man...that is basic. The Harmonic Balancer is attached to your crank hub. It only goes on one way...the bolt holes will not line up any other way. Your crank will turn if your car is in neutral. If it is in gear it will not. If you remove the hub, it needs to be marked if it is not keyed. Usually they aren't.

To be perfectly honest, if you are THIS new, you need to do A LOT more research before you go any further or else you will end up making a costly mistake! The questions you are asking are some BASIC stuff...you have me a little bit worried and I don't want to see you make a mistake that could have been avoided with research
Old 07-08-2012, 05:09 PM
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Originally Posted by lt1slowz28
the crank pulley/balancer?... use something to stop the motor from being able to turn over. I.E. a pry bar in the flexplate teeth

then crack the three bolts loose and pull off.
If the car is an auto, put it in park...it wont turn...

If the car is a manual, put it in gear...it wont turn...

Don't stick a pry bar in there
Old 07-08-2012, 05:39 PM
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lol I wasn't around when my friend pulled the balancer last time.

But that's just it it's only the balancer not the hub coming off so it should spin who cares right? Like you said there's only one way it can go back on... Right?
Old 07-08-2012, 05:46 PM
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The hub should stay in the same position it is in...if the bolt is still tightened, the crank will spin but the hub shouldn't. If it does, you have bigger problems to worry about. The hub bolts will only line up one way...period. If it is on wrong you might get one or two in, but not all 3.


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