First time digging into this car, opti replacement & more.
07-08-2012, 05:58 PM
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07-08-2012, 05:58 PM
#23
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The hub should stay in the same position it is in...if the bolt is still tightened, the crank will spin but the hub shouldn't. If it does, you have bigger problems to worry about. The hub bolts will only line up one way...period. If it is on wrong you might get one or two in, but not all 3.
anyway current problem is the removal of the balancer, everything i read says you didn't need a puller but she's not coming off now with the bolts removed.
07-08-2012, 06:02 PM
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i'm probably getting my terms mixed up / not describing this correct. but what would those problems be out of curiosity? maybe I can confirm i'm clueless
anyway current problem is the removal of the balancer, everything i read says you didn't need a puller but she's not coming off now with the bolts removed.
anyway current problem is the removal of the balancer, everything i read says you didn't need a puller but she's not coming off now with the bolts removed.
when it's off and you want less fuss out of it next time clean up the mating surfaces.
07-08-2012, 06:16 PM
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Wow, really?? Shows how much I work on autos. I always figured if the wheels were locked up, the engine would be too...didn't realize the torque converter worked that way. Disregard that part then...I just wouldn't feel comfortable with a pry bar in there, but sorry for the misinformation.
07-08-2012, 07:41 PM
#29
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Alright guys everything is off. You don't need a puller my ***. Used a puller and spent 10 minutes tugging the thing.
Didn't realize how small the "keys" are on the opti to line up when re installing, i never did see it I just assume it's there will worry about it tomorrow. This is going to suck installing all from the top.
I know get thread sealant for the opti screws. What about the water pump bolts? or anti seize? I need to look up the torque specs for everything, last year i snapped the bolt on my tstat housing
lol
Didn't realize how small the "keys" are on the opti to line up when re installing, i never did see it I just assume it's there will worry about it tomorrow. This is going to suck installing all from the top.
I know get thread sealant for the opti screws. What about the water pump bolts? or anti seize? I need to look up the torque specs for everything, last year i snapped the bolt on my tstat housing
lol
07-08-2012, 07:50 PM
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Red locktite ONLY for the 2 screws that hold the rotor itself on. not sealant, loctite.
White thread sealant for every water pump bolt. Blue loctite for the opti bolts.
MAKE SURE you line up the correct key with the dowel pin...there is only ONE. Otherwise your spark timing will be off.
Ani seize is only needed for the spark plugs...
Here is every torque spec you should need... http://shbox.com/ci/fastener_matrix.html
White thread sealant for every water pump bolt. Blue loctite for the opti bolts.
MAKE SURE you line up the correct key with the dowel pin...there is only ONE. Otherwise your spark timing will be off.
Ani seize is only needed for the spark plugs...
Here is every torque spec you should need... http://shbox.com/ci/fastener_matrix.html
07-08-2012, 08:00 PM
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Thanks for the link! Yeah I didn't notice a key when i took the opti out. I'll go make sure i can find it before i go to sleep. I was just so winded & done with everything once everything was off finally!
Also. Leaving the air pump off and took off the tubing that leads into the manifolds. Just plug them up and i'm set?
Also. Leaving the air pump off and took off the tubing that leads into the manifolds. Just plug them up and i'm set?
07-08-2012, 08:05 PM
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Yeah, plug them or else you will have an exhaust leak...
On the back of the opti will be 3 indentions for the bolts, and 3 slots. 2 slots are the same, one is different. You need to use the one that is different from the other 2.
On the back of the opti will be 3 indentions for the bolts, and 3 slots. 2 slots are the same, one is different. You need to use the one that is different from the other 2.
07-08-2012, 08:07 PM
#34
yeah go to the hardware store and find a metal plug in the plumbing section to cap it.
94 lt1 right?
The keyed spline on the opti is pretty obvious if you take a look at it. It is kind of a pain to line it up with where it slides into the timing chain sprocket since the keyed part is soo small. So dont force it on too hard.
94 lt1 right?
The keyed spline on the opti is pretty obvious if you take a look at it. It is kind of a pain to line it up with where it slides into the timing chain sprocket since the keyed part is soo small. So dont force it on too hard.
07-09-2012, 12:33 AM
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07-09-2012, 09:48 AM
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Honestly i'll be surprised if it doesn't take a week.
alright here's round two of the retarted questions go easy.
I looked at my opti today and it doesn't match either of these...
http://shbox.com/1/93-94_opti.jpg
http://shbox.com/1/opti_back.jpg
Instead it's this...
and the car looks like this
the f am i suppose to replace it with?
alright here's round two of the retarted questions go easy.
I looked at my opti today and it doesn't match either of these...
http://shbox.com/1/93-94_opti.jpg
http://shbox.com/1/opti_back.jpg
Instead it's this...
and the car looks like this
the f am i suppose to replace it with?
07-09-2012, 12:48 PM
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lol... keep plucking at it, eventually it will be fixed... I hope
edit... before you get everything all the way back together, put the balancer back on and snug the opti up and see if the car will run for about 30 secs... it won't hurt anything, and sure saves some time trouble shooting if you mis-keyed the opti or mixed up a wire.
edit... before you get everything all the way back together, put the balancer back on and snug the opti up and see if the car will run for about 30 secs... it won't hurt anything, and sure saves some time trouble shooting if you mis-keyed the opti or mixed up a wire.