Hey guys....right now this is where I'm at.
Stock Lt1 (94 Z28) w/ K&N (in the stock setup) and LT4 knock module

This is what I'm planning on adding (in this order too), do you guys have any suggestions:
52mm throttle body (so I don't have to pay extra for boring the intake to match)
Air foil
K&N FIPK, or Moroso, or other air intake
30lb fuel injectors
Ported heads (eventually)
some sort of cam


here's my glitch though, I need to eb able to pass inspection in Texas (dallas/houston type areas)

what other ideas you guys have?

also, anyone know how much HP a set of ported LT1 heads will produce? I'm trying to decide if the LT4 heads will be worth the saving up time when the LT1 ported heads are all over for decently cheap.

thanks guys

 

You don't need the 30 lbers at all unless you're planning on running nitrous, they won't help in power and you'll just run rich unless you're tuned for them... as for the cam, if you've got to pass inspection, go with a pretty mild grind like a Comp 305, Comp Xtreme Energy 224/230, or the Hotcam. Any of those with a tune should pass inspection. Also, don't even think about doing the cam before touching the exhaust. If you've got an automatic, you definitely need a torque converter as you're first mod. Nothing beats it on an automatic. Heads should come last.

My advice on inspectionw ould definitely be to pay a mechanic to do it. Unless you're horribly failing emissions, he should pass you if you pay him. It's worth it, I know my mechanic personally so it helps a lot also...

For the heads, if you've got a daily driver and you want to pass inspection, just port the stock heads. You won't see much of a gain with ported LT4 heads over ported LT1 heads with such a mild cam like the 305.

Hope this helps, good luck!!

 

Logical order of mods:

Exhaust/Intake
Cam/Heads with fuel injectors and throttlebody as needed.

Reasons: Exhaust first because it's a major restriction. Makes NO sense to bring in more air than can be usefully expelled. Most like to do a Cat-Back and Cold Air induction at the same time. The move on to the headers, Y-pipe, and Cat. Maybe an airfoil for the stock TB at this time too. This way, you have a free flowing unrestricted intake setup, with a free flowing exhaust system.

Now move on to the motor. Cam only is fine, but if you do the heads, by all means do a cam too. The heads will be coming off, as well as the intake, so all you'd be left to do is take the old cam out and install the new one.

There is a sense of logic needed when modding a car. Where you are, where you want to get, and how to get there making the most gains along the way.

Oh, and a 52MM TB on a stock motor is unnecessary. That would be money better spent on something else. Save it for the head and cam package, when a 52 will be useful.

Don't forget the suspension too. If you want to be "fast" for lack of a better term, you've got to be able to hook.

 

yea I actually forgot a few things when I listed what I already have:
94 Z28 w/
LT1
LT4 knock module
Flomaster Catback (no headers yet though)
JET PCM
Hi Flo water pump
45000 volt iginition coil
probably some more I'm forgetting

My goal is to get to around 350rwhp
I think that'll be somewhat satisfying to the point where I can make dots in the rear view out of even more cars
Basicalyy I just don't want to get so high I break the rear end and have to replace it. From what I've heard, 375 is probabaly max I want to push out of those.

I've also revised my plan as well:
Aluminum driveshaft (I believe 94 Z28 has a cast iron correct) Is it true these increase the amount of rwhp..I have heard you lose less through the drivetrain with aluminum.
52mm throttle body (just to have it done, I know someone with a 95 TA who got about 14hp out of putting it on a stock motor..plus, I don't wanna do it later, I'm lazy)
K&N FIPK or other
-----now ill be pulling out that stage 1 PCM------
Ported alunminum stock heads
hotcam or mild 305 cam
MSD ignition system
Accell or Taylor 8mm spark plug wires
Dynaspark optispark (check it out http://www.dynotech-eng.com/dynaspark.htm)
Walbro high pressure fuel pump
aluminum fuel lines for over motor to replace those shitty black rubber lines (or whatever they are)..those damn things just look like they're heating up my gas.

so I'm figuring with this stuff here, plus what I already have, I should be sittin at a rough estimaet around maybe 370hp...does that sound about right?

Also, you know how chevy advertised 275HP on our cars....did they mean block hp or rear wheel hp?

thanks guys.

 

first off, consider this- it doesn't matter if you're putting 500 rwtq out of your motor if you tires are spinning. Traction kills 10-bolts more than power does. I'm still on my stock rear, but the key to my preserving it is keeping my suspension totally stock (which sucks, but I don't have 2 grand for a 9" right now ). Also, you don't really have any need for an LT4KM unless you're running 1.6 ratio rockers. And MAKE SURE you do headers before heads/cam, you're motor will be so choked trying to breathe through stock manifolds that you won't see hardly any gain.

In general the mods look good, with a mild cam and ported heads you should be able to hit 350 RWHP without much of a problem. Honestly though, I doubt you'll need the Walbro unless you plan on spraying. Stock Z28s have a steel driveshaft, an aluminum one will help prevent horsepower from dissolving into your drivetrain. You can see some decent gains out of one.

275 horses are bhp, usually we dyno around 240-250 RWHP, underrated by about 10 bhp. (Nothing compared to GM underrating the LS1 F-Bodies.. the 98-00s put out around 290 RWHP stock, and they're rated at 305. The 01-02s put out over 300 RWHP, and they're rated at 310)

 

gotcha

i do eventually plan on adding 1.6 rockers....probably some better valves, springs, pushrods, etc.

sounds like getting the aluminum driveshaft first will be the route to go.

from what I hear logntubes are a bitch, so I guess I'll go with shorties

really my tires don't even spin...well, not that I hear...I suppose they do since I go sideways when I take off

i dont mind the stock suspension really so I have no prob staying stock there, plus im tryin to stay in a low price range for now...pretty soon though i should be getting my settlemetn from a wreck over ayear ago...and then i'm gonna get a new block..everything i add now will be put onto the new block

thats why im pretty much focused on easier bolt ons like these


here's a stupid question for ya...what the hell does a stall converter do?
i dont know **** about transmissions (very quick learner though )
like if i were to get a new torque converter with a 2600 stall...does that mean if I floor it then it aint gonna move until 2600 rpms?

 

A stall converter is what saves an automatic tranny from being the most boring part of an F-Body

It's kinda hard to explain. You really have to take a ride in one to know how it feels. If your not giving the throttle much gas, your revs will climb but the car will kinda hesitate (< not really the right word), once you floor it, all hell breaks loose and you're thrown back in your seat. On the highway, your tranny will downshift when you're at an RPM range when it usually wouldn't, giving you an advantage against M6s. You can also rev higher while powerbraking from a stop. There are limitless advantages to a stall, you really gotta get one. Can somebody else expand on this better than I can? I'm not very good with drivetrain components anyway, I'm strictly a motor guy

I personally have a shitty stall (B&M 2400), but I can still feel the effects and it is DAMN FUN. I can't imagine what a 3000 stall would be like. Trust me on this one, you definitely want a TC as one of your first mods, if not your very first mod.

The aluminum driveshaft will help out a lot when you start putting real power out of your motor. It's is a good choice though, aluminum ones are priced well and you'll get decent performance out of it, and the install isn't very hard at all.

 

You dont want to put shorties on go longtube...9 out of 10 people tell me longtube is better...as you can tell I still have them on my to buy list...You sure you dont want bigger rocker arms they would go great with the new cam..and you plan to go bigger gears for that stock end since you plan to keep it maybe you should spice it up.

 

yep plan on going to 3.73 rear end back there

plan on getting 1.6 rockers
i here you gotta get new valve covers for this, is that true?

thanks for the info ennisguy

 

Well I haven't had my valve covers off of the car yet (I didn't do the cam swap), but I've heard that you don't need totally new ones, you can just notch out the inside of the stock ones to get the 1.6 RRs to fit.

No prob on the info, just tryin to help out