93 Camaro...Need some help peeps, I'm in JAPAN!!!
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Well a;lkFhUgC[Kohweg. Didn't want to spend that much. Oh well. Bite the bullet I guess. I really want to keep dumping money in my twin turbo set up. Guess that'll have to wait.
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Just curious what is confusing you with the spark advance?
You checked the fuel pressure and said it was "good". What was the actual number at idle and cruising?
Have you actually diagnosed the ICM?
Have you diagnosed the OptiSpark? There is no need to throw money at an issue that does not exist. If you don't know how to diagnose the opti review this link: http://www.ls1lt1.com/forum/lt1-%7C-...optispark.html
Very cool to have that ride in Japan. Must attract a lot of attention!
You checked the fuel pressure and said it was "good". What was the actual number at idle and cruising?
Have you actually diagnosed the ICM?
Have you diagnosed the OptiSpark? There is no need to throw money at an issue that does not exist. If you don't know how to diagnose the opti review this link: http://www.ls1lt1.com/forum/lt1-%7C-...optispark.html
Very cool to have that ride in Japan. Must attract a lot of attention!
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Yeah, attracts a lot of attention...some of it unwanted. Fuel pressure as stated earlier back was good at 43psi just after starting. Didn't check while driving, the tester wasn't mine so I couldn't just bounce with it. I'm actually really not going to buy anything else until I get my sensor for the front of the waterpump. I really think that is going to clear up a lot of issues.
As for spark advance, I understand how it works, but looking on that scanner at it bouncing around, confuses me. I'm confused as to where it's supposed to be at idle, while revving, while WOT. If you refer to my intro thread, you can see I'm no n00b to building things but the ECU (aftermarket) that I use has a nifty autotune feature where I don't have to mess with timing at all. That and all the cars I'm used to working on aren't old. No dizzy, no coil wires, etc. Most everything I've built and or worked with has been coil on pack.
As for spark advance, I understand how it works, but looking on that scanner at it bouncing around, confuses me. I'm confused as to where it's supposed to be at idle, while revving, while WOT. If you refer to my intro thread, you can see I'm no n00b to building things but the ECU (aftermarket) that I use has a nifty autotune feature where I don't have to mess with timing at all. That and all the cars I'm used to working on aren't old. No dizzy, no coil wires, etc. Most everything I've built and or worked with has been coil on pack.
#33
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Yeah, attracts a lot of attention...some of it unwanted. Fuel pressure as stated earlier back was good at 43psi just after starting. Didn't check while driving, the tester wasn't mine so I couldn't just bounce with it. I'm actually really not going to buy anything else until I get my sensor for the front of the waterpump. I really think that is going to clear up a lot of issues.
As for spark advance, I understand how it works, but looking on that scanner at it bouncing around, confuses me. I'm confused as to where it's supposed to be at idle, while revving, while WOT. If you refer to my intro thread, you can see I'm no n00b to building things but the ECU (aftermarket) that I use has a nifty autotune feature where I don't have to mess with timing at all. That and all the cars I'm used to working on aren't old. No dizzy, no coil wires, etc. Most everything I've built and or worked with has been coil on pack.
As for spark advance, I understand how it works, but looking on that scanner at it bouncing around, confuses me. I'm confused as to where it's supposed to be at idle, while revving, while WOT. If you refer to my intro thread, you can see I'm no n00b to building things but the ECU (aftermarket) that I use has a nifty autotune feature where I don't have to mess with timing at all. That and all the cars I'm used to working on aren't old. No dizzy, no coil wires, etc. Most everything I've built and or worked with has been coil on pack.
If I remember my spark advance reading when it was stock I think it would bounce from 28-33 at idle until it reached closed loop then it would drop in the 20s. I did do a quick google search and 30 at idle open loop around 1k rpms and 20 at idle closed loop at around 800 rpms. So it just depends where your idle RPMs are at.
I'm not referring to you as a noob, I'm just trying to understand and answer your questions to get this thing solved. LT1 engines are extremely interesting to say the least. If you truly enjoy wrenching on cars you picked a good one, lol. A lot of the other cars you owned in the past and the R33 especially I covet.
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I still have the R33 GT-R. Just got a fresh coat of paint too.
As for the spark advance, that video was closed loop, 650rpm target, and that was a few tap the gas idle up type deal. When I went WOT in that video it went as far as 42 i believe, and at idle, 650rpm, it was 26. Not sure about the timing or why it would be off. As far as I know, the PCM is stock no tune. I'm going to go out and t/s the opti today with that writeup from Shbox. Borrowed a buddy's multimeter for the weekend so we'll see I guess.
As for the spark advance, that video was closed loop, 650rpm target, and that was a few tap the gas idle up type deal. When I went WOT in that video it went as far as 42 i believe, and at idle, 650rpm, it was 26. Not sure about the timing or why it would be off. As far as I know, the PCM is stock no tune. I'm going to go out and t/s the opti today with that writeup from Shbox. Borrowed a buddy's multimeter for the weekend so we'll see I guess.
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UPDATE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Today I had the hood open and had my wife floor it after it had been running on and off for a few hours. Timing is still all over the place, and I noticed when she put it to the floor (where it fought as hard as it could to keep itself under 3000rpms) the air box would pop wildly, and hard enough that the whole airbox would move.
It's firing late! So now that I have it narrowed down to a snowflake in a flurry, does the water temp sensor on the front of the water pump have anything to do with timing? As in, the PCM gets the signal, and decides fuel mixture as well as timing?
Today I had the hood open and had my wife floor it after it had been running on and off for a few hours. Timing is still all over the place, and I noticed when she put it to the floor (where it fought as hard as it could to keep itself under 3000rpms) the air box would pop wildly, and hard enough that the whole airbox would move.
It's firing late! So now that I have it narrowed down to a snowflake in a flurry, does the water temp sensor on the front of the water pump have anything to do with timing? As in, the PCM gets the signal, and decides fuel mixture as well as timing?