FormulaJoe

iTrader: (5)

Thanks for checking this thread out, I've had been pretty busy and have been putting off taking the small amount of time to make this thread. I planned to have it up before the motor was started on 6/18 but oh well.

Thanks for all the help you guys have given me and questions you've answered.

Most of you don't know me very well at all, but for starters my name is Joe and I'm 19 years old. I live in the western suburbs of the Twin Cities in MN so if you live around here message me and we can meet up at a local car meet or something! The car this engine is in is my black 94 Firebird Formula 6spd hardtop. I've had the car for about 2 and a half years now and about 10 months ago after trying to figure out why 2 cylinders were down (opti went) I decided since I had the extra cash and have always wanted to build an nice engine anyway to just go ahead with it, since half of the build would then be during the winter. Took a long time to gather parts and knowledge but it has more then paid off!

Parts:
Stock crank
Scat 6" forged 4340 chromoly connecting rods with 7/16 ARP cap screws
SRP pro series forged 4032 aluminum JE rings 1.2mm top ring, 1.5mm napier 2nd ring
Howards 4-bolt splayed main caps
Melling 10554 oil pump which came with a hardened drive shaft
New gm oil pump drive with Projection Eng. Oil psi saver.
Moroso 23020 windage tray (broke the stocker)
ARP main and head studs
LE2 heads and cam from Josh Laitner. Really nice guy. He sent them to Lloyd to clean them up, mill them, and install the patriot valve springs. He also did a little extra port work on the intake side, but not sure how much.
Cam for those of you who don't know it from Josh is a Bullet Racing billet custom grind. 236/244 .594/.594 w/1.6rr 112 lsa
Fel-Pro head gaskets .39 thickness
LE2 intake from BLK95-Z on LTXtech
ATI super damper 10% underdrive (for what that's worth lol)
Cloyes single roller 9-3157 timing chain
95 converted timing cover and opti
Jegs EWP
FIC 32lb Bosch 3 injectors
AC Delco ls7 lifters
Chromoly .080 5/16" pushrods
ARP 7/16" rocker studs and Trickflow hardened guideplates
Comp Ultra Pro Mag NSA 7/16" rockers
TPiS 58mm TB (polished look)

The block was done up by TPiS here in Chaska, MN. Which is about a 15 minute drive from me.
Had it cleaned up, checked for cracks, .030 over, 0 decked, 4-bolt mains drilled installed and align bored/honed.
I also had them balance my rotating assembly and install it.
When I got the heads from Josh they were 56cc's so I had TPiS mill them down to 54cc's to raise compression to 11.8 to 1 with my headgaskets.

Once I had the block back I got everything put together by the next week and fired her up. My video of it was absolutely horrible but my friend got one on his phone so I'll see if I can get it and put it up! Got to driving it the day after.
I've been in a lot of really fast cars. Haven't ever gotten to drive one, only the 'bird when she was stock. But I'll tell you what the upgrade is extremely fun.

** EDIT: problems have been resolved **

My biggest problem was my cooling system. I took it on a 45 minute drive a couple weeks ago and unless I had the rpms REALLY low the temp was at 230 while cruising and it actually got to 240 once so I stopped for a bit. When I came to stop lights it would slowly drop to around 215-220ish, but then once I started driving it would go right back up. Also around town cruising it would get to 220 and if I got on it the temp would go up to 230 quick.
I noticed that I had lost a tiny bit of coolant so I looked around and noticed that there was some coolant seeping from the thermostat housing, so I tightened the bolts up which were a little loose and then re-bled the system. Since then I have took it on a about a 12 mile ride to my friends and got on it a little bit but cruised almost the whole way and the temp went up to 215 while cruising, which I know isn't that bad. Fixing that leak helped a bit I'm certain, but I don't think it cured the problem. Though I have not taken it on a longer drive since fixing the leak
I took a temperature sensor gun before the leak and checked the hoses, there is about a 20-25ish degree difference in the two, the in-hose being the colder of the 2 of course. But to me and from something I remember reading recently, that is a bit too high of a difference, meaning a flow problem. I'll check again now that the leak is fixed tomorrow and see if the temperature difference has gotten smaller.
SO I have done exactly 2 things differently with my cooling system, I am confident at least 1 is the problem. Jegs EWP and a Hypertech 160degree t-stat.
I tested the voltage to the EWP and it is getting about 12.5 if I remember correctly, so it is not low on juice. Which means that if it is the problem it just isn't flowing enough. I think this is the problem, I remember thinking that the impeller blades looked awfully small compared to the stock ones, but not sure.. Don't know why it makes such a big deal about it being "50gpm" on the website if the pump is the problem. OR it could be the thermostat is not opening all the way. I'm going to be testing the thermostat tomorrow to see how well it's working.. Really hope that it's just the t-stat, but we will see.

After I get those things figured out and a little cash for it, I'll be bringing her in to TPiS for the final tune, which will most likely be in about 2-3 weeks. So I'll be giving an update with results!

I can't wait to bring it to the track but I'm going to have to wait to run it until I can afford an s60.. I know I should have done that first, but the engine was more of a priority. Hopefully in a couple months I'll be able to afford the s60, driveshaft, and tq arm. Then move on to getting drag rims and radials! I'm hoping I'll have numbers before the weather prevents it, but we will see!

Thanks again for checking this thread out!

FormulaJoe

iTrader: (5)

Pictures of all sorts. There are two pictures showing what was wrong with my old distributor and what is was doing because of it. There was just a little plastic tab that held that arm on and it eventually gave.
Oh and please excuse that dirtay engine bay

FormulaJoe

iTrader: (5)

I'll get a picture of it as it sits all buttoned up tomorrow.

96capricemgr

iTrader: (1)

Last guy I knew that had TPIS build him a motor got it back with an improperly installed sleeve that blewup the cooling system the first time he started it because it leaked combustion pressure into the coolant. When he supplied a second block they did not bother to zero deck that one but had on the first so the intake to head angle is terrible and he HAS TO use stock type gaskets because the metal core ones can't seal the misaligned angle. He also had them tune a pcm for it but we later had to get a tune from Madtuner which was much better.
Hope you have better luck BUT seeing as you already have problems...........................

Far as the electric pump, I am probably one of the biggest critics of them here, mostly because I actually understand it as opposed to most guys. That said a 30gpm pump should keep your car cool enough. I sincerely hope you find a cheap simple solution like the thermostat, but in all honestly I have heard of more nightmares coming from TPIS than I have the 160 stat failing.

riceburnerZ28

iTrader: (20)

Congrats on the new build and enjoy the power it's addictive! Have you had the fans tuned to come on earlier? What temps does the engine reach while at idle? The temp gauge and/or temperature sensor could be faulty. Is the air dam in place? Anything blocking the radiator?

FormulaJoe

iTrader: (5)

I'm not really having any major problems. Just a small coolant flow problem, no lost coolant besides the little from thermo housing and none extra in the overflow tank + a possible leaky exhaust. I think everything has gone great with TPiS and my build besides, and I don't think I can recall any time where anyone told me they had such an experience with them. But good to know about your buddy regardless.

My main reason among the other usual ones for going EWP was because I didn't want to use a stock style chain and I didn't know about the $300 version of the chain I have that has the gears for the WP lol.

If I let it sit and idle it will stay at 190. It was at 215 yesterday after cruising for those 12ish miles, I stopped at a light and after like 3 minutes it was down to about 195ish

xDetroitMetalx

I would just bet your coolant system if properly bled yet, probably air pockets holding everything up. I love the look of those Howards *drool*

riceburnerZ28

iTrader: (20)

Sounds to like the cooling system is working fine .

FormulaJoe

iTrader: (5)

I feel like it could be working a little bit better, I'll find an excuse to go for a good long cruise and monitor the temps. Perhaps it is just the engine and it running hotter as is, but stock with the 180 thermostat, fans always on, and stock wp it never went above 190 no matter how much I got on it. Now after a short 12 mile cruise shes up to 215.

FAD2BLK93

Do a coolant test for combustion gasses. Better yet let it run and smell the bottle. Possible head gasket issue. In my experience if the car will hold a temp at idle but then climb and climb while driving and then overheats or comes close then u look a the headgskets. Learned that from the Northstar and the 3.1 and the 3.4 and so on...........

30696bird

iTrader: (4)

Is the air dam (plastic piece by the radiator) installed properly? That will cause the type of issues you are talking about with the temp.

FormulaJoe

iTrader: (5)

No air dam, previous owner hit a speed bump or something and came down hard and so there was a little front end damage. He probably broke it in the process. I didn't think I would need it seeing as the cooling system was working just fine before the build with the stock components except the dam. Looks like I might as well get one and see how it helps..

30696bird

iTrader: (4)

That is your problem. Easy fix, lucky you.

96capricemgr

iTrader: (1)

The airdam is an important cooling piece, maybe the cooling needs of this motor are just enough to make you notice a change. Will be great if that is your fix.

FormulaJoe

iTrader: (5)

Ordering one today, I'll let you guys know if it helps.

Rob94hawk

iTrader: (1)

Sounds like a really nice build. My cam is a Bullet Racing cam with similar specs. Looking forward to hearing the results on your dyno tune. Best of luck.

Rodinator1234

Nice build and I agree a air dam makes a difference I've ran with it and without it. Did you use your stock oil pan?

FormulaJoe

iTrader: (5)

Thanks Rob, I did notice your cam specs when researching a while ago, I like your build and it is making some good power! Both of us are stuck with the stock rear right now too haha.

Rodinator, I did use my stock pan. It almost didn't work because my Howards caps are so big they were close to preventing me from bolting the pan up.

So a little update on the cooling issue. I noticed that my thermo housing was still leaking a tiny bit, so I tightened that even more. Took it to work today and it didn't get above 195 while cruising (though it is only a 12 minute drive so that doesn't prove much), but when I got home I let her idle in the driveway while I moved my truck out of the way to pull the bird in the garage and when I jumped back in to move it in the garage the temp was right at 170 from 195 after idling for only like 2 minutes.. I'm thinking that the air dam is my missing piece of the puzzle here. Looking forward to getting it and seeing how much it helps.

FormulaJoe

iTrader: (5)

Got the air dam in place and I went for about a 45 minute drive yesterday and it never got above 190. Stayed at 180 pretty much the whole time. Looks like problem solved. Thanks guys!
Now I gotta get this small exhaust leak figured out..

FormulaJoe

iTrader: (5)

Decided to throw in another update.. Decided to pack light and take the 'bird on a camping trip. 3 hours there and 3 back, like before not even up to 190. Cruisin around 80-90 at 1800-1900 rpms. Thanks again for the help guys!