LT1-LT4 Modifications 1993-97 Gen II Small Block V8

14.3:1cr 398ci combo dyno#s pics and New videos added to first post!!

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Old 07-31-2012, 05:19 PM
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have you found any power/et with a gap change mike?
Old 07-31-2012, 06:27 PM
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I cant wait to hear this monster start up!...We've came a long way from the V6 days partner
Old 07-31-2012, 08:44 PM
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Originally Posted by Outlaw666
I cant wait to hear this monster start up!...We've came a long way from the V6 days partner
Can't wait also just last second little over looked stuff holding up progress! I had to order a keyed hub which will be here tomorrow.So with a lil luck it should be running by the evening.
Old 07-31-2012, 09:33 PM
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i didn't read all of the posts, but on that bore size, a 227 is fine, imo. alot of work to get a better head on such a small bore, that is wasted cash, as the valve is shrouded. car should run 8's at that raceweight. but it is easy to speculate. that is why we post our 2 cents .... right
g'luck with it, and have fun.
Old 07-31-2012, 10:11 PM
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Originally Posted by Gear Rower
i didn't read all of the posts, but on that bore size, a 227 is fine, imo. alot of work to get a better head on such a small bore, that is wasted cash, as the valve is shrouded. car should run 8's at that raceweight. but it is easy to speculate. that is why we post our 2 cents .... right
g'luck with it, and have fun.
Thanks,,,im hopeful it should run really well..The suspension has been gone through and has worked really well with low low 1.4 60s without the rollbar.With the addition of the bar i hope to get it even lower.As far as the heads go if i reach my goals i will leave them be and find other ways to get faster..
Old 08-01-2012, 07:10 AM
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Originally Posted by Wicked94Z
have you found any power/et with a gap change mike?
maybeeeeeeeeeeee......................
Old 08-04-2012, 06:19 PM
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Just an update on build progress!!! Still have not hit the dyno yet,ran into a few setbacks.First set back was piston to valve clearance issues.Had to switch to 1.5rockers and ended with exactly .100s clearance..So once that was good i found out my 3/8 pushrods rubbed and the heads need to be grinded to clear..got that done then had to order new adj guide plates.The geometry was off a tad.So once guide plates come in monday the engine will be complete..I have to say my builder has exceeded my expectations in attention detail and cant wait to get power results!

question for the guys running single planes..whats the best carb hat out there? I want to run the same ram air style intake i ran when it was fuel injected under my front spoiler.I Like the spectre dual hat but didnt no if its as efficient as a large single hat.THANKS FOR ANY ADVICE!!
Old 08-04-2012, 08:43 PM
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Mike is like a mad scientist lol.
Old 08-04-2012, 10:43 PM
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Originally Posted by Hit em Up
Just an update on build progress!!! Still have not hit the dyno yet,ran into a few setbacks.First set back was piston to valve clearance issues.Had to switch to 1.5rockers and ended with exactly .100s clearance..So once that was good i found out my 3/8 pushrods rubbed and the heads need to be grinded to clear..got that done then had to order new adj guide plates.The geometry was off a tad.So once guide plates come in monday the engine will be complete..I have to say my builder has exceeded my expectations in attention detail and cant wait to get power results!

question for the guys running single planes..whats the best carb hat out there? I want to run the same ram air style intake i ran when it was fuel injected under my front spoiler.I Like the spectre dual hat but didnt no if its as efficient as a large single hat.THANKS FOR ANY ADVICE!!
I know how you feel about last minute issues - I was assembling my block for final assembly and when I tested PTV clearance with a length checker it was fine, but with a thick Trend custom PR that didn't flex my PTV went to virtually 0. Apparently a checker PR will give ya >.1" flex with a SR spring LOL...my dumbass fault for being lazy and not taking that into consideration!

Whole block came apart and I dropped it off at the machine shop with one of my AFRs to get the angle right and cut new valve notches in the pistons. The AFR valves don't sit properly in SRP's generic piston reliefs so you get less PTV then expected.

For the hat Spectre makes a good cheap one, also EV makes both a standard 4" and a Pro 5" if you don't mind cutting. Get as much height as you can, and run a spacer under the TB if you can squeeze one. I think it was Ed that tested spacers on a 383 and was up to something crazy like 7" and it was still picking up! Single planes seem to love the increase in plenum area from spacers.
Old 08-05-2012, 03:43 AM
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For the hat Spectre makes a good cheap one, also EV makes both a standard 4" and a Pro 5" if you don't mind cutting. Get as much height as you can, and run a spacer under the TB if you can squeeze one. I think it was Ed that tested spacers on a 383 and was up to something crazy like 7" and it was still picking up! Single planes seem to love the increase in plenum area from spacers.[/QUOTE]

Well cant remember part number but the intake im running has the one inch tall flange already.Then i also have a 1" wood spacer and my nitrous plate is about a 1/2" maybe 3/4 with my solenoid adapter that mount under it.I have a 6"cowl so i will do as you say and experiment with spacers.I have to look into th EV PRO 5" THANKS.....
Old 08-05-2012, 09:57 AM
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I use the tiny checking springs to check p-to-v clearance. The springs aren't strong enough to cause any flex with an adjustable pushrod. Having .100" clearance is overkill. I have around .40"ish on the intake and .080"ish on the exhaust. The exhaust is much more important. Even if the exhaust clearance is tighter than that, as long as you have a GOOD spring that can easily handle your valvetrain you shouldn't have any problems.
Old 08-05-2012, 10:35 AM
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Originally Posted by joelster
I use the tiny checking springs to check p-to-v clearance. The springs aren't strong enough to cause any flex with an adjustable pushrod. Having .100" clearance is overkill. I have around .40"ish on the intake and .080"ish on the exhaust. The exhaust is much more important. Even if the exhaust clearance is tighter than that, as long as you have a GOOD spring that can easily handle your valvetrain you shouldn't have any problems.
I agree that .100s is probably over kill but he just wanted to make it safe and reliable as possible.And you're right the intake side was tighter than exhaust.How high are you revving your motor and how much compression? He didn't really explain to much as to why he wanted so much clearance but did say he did things a lil different because It will see a lot of street duty and not just strip.
Old 08-05-2012, 12:07 PM
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Originally Posted by Hit em Up
I agree that .100s is probably over kill but he just wanted to make it safe and reliable as possible.And you're right the intake side was tighter than exhaust.How high are you revving your motor and how much compression? He didn't really explain to much as to why he wanted so much clearance but did say he did things a lil different because It will see a lot of street duty and not just strip.
The "old" rule of thumb was tons of clearance, but with todays higher quality valvetrain parts and tighter tolerances you can safely run less. I would have been happy with .035 int/.060 exh...

I can understand the mechanic wanting to cover himself though. A lot of crappy shops won't even care - if it breaks, no warranty - too bad!
Old 08-05-2012, 01:06 PM
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Originally Posted by Hit em Up
I agree that .100s is probably over kill but he just wanted to make it safe and reliable as possible.And you're right the intake side was tighter than exhaust.How high are you revving your motor and how much compression? He didn't really explain to much as to why he wanted so much clearance but did say he did things a lil different because It will see a lot of street duty and not just strip.
I shift as close to 7k as I can get it (stock pcm). I have no doubt I won't have any issues once I get my FAST setup in there. My plan is to take it to 7500 or so. Compression is 11.77-1. My car is street/strip too.
Old 08-05-2012, 02:23 PM
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if i had .100 clearance id be ordering 1.8 ratio rockers lol
Old 08-05-2012, 03:11 PM
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If the valvetrain has stability headroom then you can run tighter. just think all it takes if you're on the edge is you get float or bad harmonics in the spring ONCE and you'll take a few % out of that spring. Hit the limiter hard in the burnout box or something and that one valve floats ONCE and you're rebuilding the head or maybe the whole motor. Next time order dome pistons with big reliefs and you can order that bottom of the page grind without a worry
Old 08-05-2012, 08:24 PM
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Originally Posted by quik95lt1
if i had .100 clearance id be ordering 1.8 ratio rockers lol
Funny part is clearance is probaly tighter than that,he may of said that because i kept asking him about it lol..If its a true .100 clearance I may change rocker ratio over winter when i put the shaftmount set up on if he feels it will be beneficial.QUESTION with the fact of posibly spraying around a 300 shot weigh in on your thoughts of clearance or does that not matter?
Old 08-05-2012, 08:36 PM
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Originally Posted by Wicked94Z
If the valvetrain has stability headroom then you can run tighter. just think all it takes if you're on the edge is you get float or bad harmonics in the spring ONCE and you'll take a few % out of that spring. Hit the limiter hard in the burnout box or something and that one valve floats ONCE and you're rebuilding the head or maybe the whole motor. Next time order dome pistons with big reliefs and you can order that bottom of the page grind without a worry
My builder did tell me i couldve ran the 1.6s i had and clearance wouldve been a little but the extra 5 to 10 horse he usally sees on a dyno wasnt worth it..Do you think thats a true statement? I trust his skills and talent but i also had to tell him what i wanted and expected.Example he looked at sideways at first when i said i wanted the block half filled then he realized how serious i was about this build lol..
Old 08-11-2012, 05:40 PM
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Just a little update to this thread...Had first engine dyno pull late last night after initial break in...Motor made 590 horse on first pull below 7000rpm.As usual ran into a few problems,my carbs accelerator pumps weren't returning so he made this pull with a 700 cfm non race carb he had around shop.Also this pull was on 112 race gas so he hasn't even began to turn the wick up.My builder will be going through carb Monday and will have c16 fuel then back on the dyno.Oh yeah there was a cooling issue that had to get worked out also.His predictions is around 640hp with his self-proclaimed 30-40hp stingy dyno but we will see soon enough.With everything going on I forgot to ask about torque but will update once final numbers come in next week.I think once dialed in 650+ hp na should be easy..
Old 08-15-2012, 08:32 PM
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Well finally got motor on dyno today after carb rebuild.I'm pretty excited to say it made 667horse at 6900rpm and over 580ft lbs of torque at 5000rpm!! These passes were at 36 degrees timing and plugs looked like it could've used more.There is definitely more left on the table but didn't have time or the right fuel to make a few timing,jet size,and or spacer adjustments to pick up a few more ponies...Pics of dyno runs and engine in sig.Feedback on build or any helpful ideas welcome and FYI this is by all means a nitrous motor thx....


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