Update on my 383 build
No, what is unnecessary is for some grossly misinformed individual to be offering bad advise.
If nobody makes a point of how wildly incorrect you are someone else might actually listen to you, hell even now there are probably a few people who will listen to you because some dimwit at joebob's machine and bait shop told them similar things.
What is the compression on your beast of an engine? In the 10s"for pump gas friendliness"? Those of us who have been around awhile have seen a lot of this. It is sad how many "reputable" local shops completely destroy an LT1 build with weaker than stock cast cranks, stock or lower compression, ridiculously wide LSA on the low lift cam etc.
If nobody makes a point of how wildly incorrect you are someone else might actually listen to you, hell even now there are probably a few people who will listen to you because some dimwit at joebob's machine and bait shop told them similar things.
What is the compression on your beast of an engine? In the 10s"for pump gas friendliness"? Those of us who have been around awhile have seen a lot of this. It is sad how many "reputable" local shops completely destroy an LT1 build with weaker than stock cast cranks, stock or lower compression, ridiculously wide LSA on the low lift cam etc.
As stated, I'm building a DD. Yes I have other factors to consider than peak HP. I built for a flat torque curve, and I have to consider mpg, etc...
11:1 cr, and I haven't been bragging about my "beast" of a motor 
I respect your experience and good advise, just not the poor tact. I went w/ a cast crank after a lot of consideration on my goals, how it will be driven, budget, and other components; all of which are factors on any build. I'm clear they're weaker than stock and forged counterparts. I can't speak of LT1 builds being "completely destroyed" by 'reputable' local shops, but I built around some of those qualities as necessary based on my goals. And I agree that LT1's are capable of a lot of power, if built right. Not sure what's wrong with not having a 10 sec car, though (since I'm not racing it)???
To the OP, make sure to set good goals, then build on that. For example, I didn't need "bigger is better" or a "race car" for my DD; just not practical and wouldn't perform right.
http://www.callies.com/compstar/cran...l-block-chevy/
Is this what your looking for? Or just not a one piece in the 3.75" stroke...I can't find that on summit.
Is this what your looking for? Or just not a one piece in the 3.75" stroke...I can't find that on summit.
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Mar 2012
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Given the Fact that it will be my DD Im going to stick with my cast crank. i dont really have the cash for the Forged, but the crank will be sufficent enough for what its going to go through, being daily driven with the occational track day. The crank will be tolerant within its limits HP wise and RPM wise (6500)
Ill go with the Melling oil pump so I know i have the oil volume/pressure it will need as well as a nice Moroso oil pan (7qt)
ANYWAY
Sent the cylinder heads out to AI today for the 190 cc treatment. I cant wait to get this thing back!
Ill go with the Melling oil pump so I know i have the oil volume/pressure it will need as well as a nice Moroso oil pan (7qt)
ANYWAY
Sent the cylinder heads out to AI today for the 190 cc treatment. I cant wait to get this thing back!
Cheap now will cost more later, you are just making excuses. Save your money and do it right now or risk the block,rods,pistons,and nice heads. Why ask for advice and not use it?
Some 355 with AI 200cc heads & a cam specd to em Will hand you your ***!!!!!!! I gave you the info to get a Scat forged crank
The machine shop can balance it to your bob weight & you can scream the bitch to 7grand if you want & Spray the **** out of it AS long as the other forged stuff will hold it Learn some Patience Grasshopper LoL I agree with the others, the bottom end of the motor is not where you want to cut corners. Perfect example: I rebuilt my old cam only motor with new rings, bearings, cam, valvetrain, ect....BUT foolishly left the stock rod bolts instead of upgrading to ARP which let go with a 6500 RPM over-rev sending a rod out the side of the block 
as well as destroying every part of the motor other than the intake and roller rockers! Block, heads, springs, cam all fucked from one oversight. I would have REALLY been pissed if I had some high dollar AI heads that got FUBAR! I would sell it and upgrade before it's too late.
So, with my current setup, I did the opposite, got a very stout bottom end for room to grow for future upgrades (possibly nitrous
) such as ported aftermarket heads ect. with 500+ rwhp possible without worries.
as well as destroying every part of the motor other than the intake and roller rockers! Block, heads, springs, cam all fucked from one oversight. I would have REALLY been pissed if I had some high dollar AI heads that got FUBAR! I would sell it and upgrade before it's too late.So, with my current setup, I did the opposite, got a very stout bottom end for room to grow for future upgrades (possibly nitrous
) such as ported aftermarket heads ect. with 500+ rwhp possible without worries. LS1 Tech Stories
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Verdad Gallardo Respectable. Guess I could have been more clear on my points; I was just agreeing w/ some other posts on this topic. Also hoping that some on here may add some advise to add to support/refute the info I threw out there. Not really worth arguing about; nothing like some insults to put it in perspective.
As stated, I'm building a DD. Yes I have other factors to consider than peak HP. I built for a flat torque curve, and I have to consider mpg, etc... 11:1 cr, and I haven't been bragging about my "beast" of a motor I respect your experience and good advise, just not the poor tact.
I went w/ a cast crank after a lot of consideration on my goals, how it will be driven, budget, and other components; all of which are factors on any build. I'm clear they're weaker than stock and forged counterparts. I can't speak of LT1 builds being "completely destroyed" by 'reputable' local shops, but I built around some of those qualities as necessary based on my goals. And I agree that LT1's are capable of a lot of power, if built right. Not sure what's wrong with not having a 10 sec car, though (since I'm not racing it)???
To the OP, make sure to set good goals, then build on that. For example, I didn't need "bigger is better" or a "race car" for my DD; just not practical and wouldn't perform right.
As stated, I'm building a DD. Yes I have other factors to consider than peak HP. I built for a flat torque curve, and I have to consider mpg, etc...
11:1 cr, and I haven't been bragging about my "beast" of a motor I respect your experience and good advise, just not the poor tact. I went w/ a cast crank after a lot of consideration on my goals, how it will be driven, budget, and other components; all of which are factors on any build. I'm clear they're weaker than stock and forged counterparts. I can't speak of LT1 builds being "completely destroyed" by 'reputable' local shops, but I built around some of those qualities as necessary based on my goals. And I agree that LT1's are capable of a lot of power, if built right. Not sure what's wrong with not having a 10 sec car, though (since I'm not racing it)???
To the OP, make sure to set good goals, then build on that. For example, I didn't need "bigger is better" or a "race car" for my DD; just not practical and wouldn't perform right.
The LT4 was 10.8:1 STOCK specifically building an NA motor 11:1 is just another expression of ignorance.
The belief you needed stroke to have a torquey daily driver another expression of ignorance.
Mileage is not impacted anywhere near what people believe it will be,
Cam lift doesn't hurt manners for a "daily driver". For a DD stroker I would probably do upper 220s intake on a 110LSA lift somewhere up .580 or so, PTV should be checked but would not be an issue compression more like 11.5.
The cast cranks do not hold up though in RECENT YEARS we have seen more failures IMO it is a combination of a change in manufacturing making them weaker and power being easier to make. Thing is mediocre strokers with the cast Eagle cranks keep failing.
Stop and think about it, you can buy a Eagle cast crank for barely more than a local shop will charge to turn a stock crank undersized. That has to say something about how cheaply they are made.
Lots of guys get bent out of shape by my comments and a fair number of them later PM or email me and say something along the lines of "you were right about everything".
My car is not a racecar, favorite track is 150miles away, never been trailered to or from, lightest I ever weighed it at the track was 4155 with me. There is an Impala with the same engine setup I have but lighened and dialed in very well, that car I would call a racecar and it runs 10.9. I am giving up .6 and 6mph to keep my car more street friendly. The cam is more than I would want for a true all weather daily driver but opening up the LSA a little and losing maybe 10hp from that would be all it would take even in my heavy car.
^ Stokers are not "ignorant" to get big torque on a street car....maybe he want's big torque down low which is exactly what the stroker crank will do vs. 350/355. That low end torque is waaaayyy more accessible and FUN for daily driving as it comes on sooner and stronger than a non-stroker since you get nasty acceleration starting at 2000 rpm....it also makes 6th gear cruising a piece of cake even at very low rpm. The "fun" factor is not even a comparison....my mostly stock ls1 Firehawk feels downright SLOW off the line and up to 5K rpm after I've been driving the 383 car.... Cast cranks are however ignorant I will give you that...lol. What's the old saying: "torque wins races hp sells cars!"
For some of us though, too much torque is not enough! 
I would assume it goes with their own rods. Google is your friend! 
Far as a crank matching rods it that is mostly a rod length/piston skirt clearing the throws thing and brand has NOTHING to do with that.
I also posted info on where to find a $500 forged crank. We are trying to help you just aren't very receptive.
I also posted info on where to find a $500 forged crank. We are trying to help you just aren't very receptive.
^ Sure you can use any brand parts, but you will commonly see manufacturers recommend the use of their components with rod length and piston weight in mind to achieve a closer target bobweight and hopefully prevent extensive labor and cost of expensive Mallory metal which makes it more expensive for the customer in the long run. All crankshafts have a specific target bobweight for use with different length/style and weight rods.
Well he does need a crank to clear his current rods & pistons Would kinda suck to pay more machining cost because someone told him to get the wrong one!!! Like my Callies Dragonslayer is clearanced for a 5.85 rod. Then I can use my 5.85 rods or a set of 6in later on Without extra machining!! Atleast he listened! Now he needs to up the port job to 200cc if it isnt too late LoL 
The chinese stuff is often hard to balance anyway.
For an NA or mild nitrous/boost 383 I think I would have a hard time finding a reason to use anything but a 6" rod. Longer rod makes the piston shorter and lighter which makes life easier on all the other parts. Now for heavy nitrous or boost I could see a shorter rod to keep the rings down further on the piston.
For an NA or mild nitrous/boost 383 I think I would have a hard time finding a reason to use anything but a 6" rod. Longer rod makes the piston shorter and lighter which makes life easier on all the other parts. Now for heavy nitrous or boost I could see a shorter rod to keep the rings down further on the piston.