Hey guy this has nothing to do with an LT1 motor but it's the only place i can find where the 24x conversion is common.

I am building a 400 sbc to put into my 95 camaro and want to use the 24x system. But i can't seem to find an answere to if it will work or not. I know they say it will fit a sbc but when i called trhem they said there not sure if it will work with a 400sbc.

Anyone know if the gm 350 blocks and 400 block are the same dimensions? and everything goes in the same spot?


thanks

 

Why beat around the bush to try and find an answer? Email them directly to get your answer. The owner himself has a 350sbc converted and have also done a ram jet 502bbc.

 

Like he said, the best intel will come straight from efi connection . . I recommend talking to Mike the owner, he with point you in the right direction . .

814-566-0946

 

I already called them.

They told me they don't know. That's why i'm asking here they basically said that if the 400 blocks are the same as the 350 blocks then yes and if not then they arn't sure.

 

Will the crank reluctor fit the 400 crank? Yes

Will the billet aluminum timing cover fit the 400 block? Yes

Will the timing set installed on the 400 put the reluctor in the correct location in relation to the timing cover sensor hole? I don't know.

If the crank timing sprocket has to be milled to move the reluctor toward the timing chain, will there be safe clearance between crank reluctor and timing chain? I don't know.

 

Is there any way i can find out if the crank reluctor will be in the right position without spending a grand on the kit and another 850 on the wiring harness just to find out it wont work?

i don't mean to sound like a a-hole but i dont have that kind of money to waste on somthing that might not work.

 

anyone in your area doing the 24x lt1 conversion that can give you the parts to mockup on your motor to see if you have proper clearance?

 

Absolutely.

1.000" = proper distance from face of crank reluctor to face of block. Unless a line bore moves the crank up and out of sensor range, and once the billet aluminum timing cover is installed, this will locate the reluctor in range of the crank sensor. We've used a double row timing set that moved the reluctor forward by 0.017" and all was good. We've heard of double row timing sets that moved the reluctor further forward and out of the sensor. Your target is 1.000". ANY other measurement and you run the risk of having to troubleshoot with an oscilliscope and make any necessary changes to get the reluctor within sensor range.

0.415" = crank reluctor thickness

Now all you have to do is pull the timing cover and measure the distance from the face of the crank timing sprocket and the block surface where the timing cover is seated (the sealing surface). Your ideal measurement will be 0.585".

If the measurement is more, then you will need to either consider a different timing set (no suggestions here) or mill the face of the crank sprocket to move the reluctor closer toward the block.

If the measurement is less, then you will simply have to make a shim to move the reluctor forward.

If the measurement is relatively close to 0.585", and you are willing to take the risk of removing the timing cover to make adjustments if necessary, then try it out and see how it goes.

The reluctor has two rows of teeth. The sensor must "read" from both rows of teeth. Seeing the reluctor in the sensor hole does not mean it is or is not within sensor range. Occasionally I receive pictures of the reluctor through the timing cover sensor hole asking, "Does this look right?". It's generally not helpful. You cannot measure the reluctor to block by looking through the sensor hole.