I got a Comp Cam 230/236 @.50 duration and having problem with it stalling when I shift into gear it's a auto car. I talked to a tuner and he recommended I drill a hole in the throttle body. Has anybody done this? What size of hole do you recommend?

 

Ive heard of people doing this. Start with a tiny one, and work your way up until you get it to idle at whatever you want, probably around 8 or 900rpm.

 

Whose your tuner? Have you gotten a scanner on it to monitor the IAC counts? When will you paint your fender? Drilling a hole in the throttle body is a terrible idea. Unless he's talking about resizing the IAC hole (NOT THE THROTTLE BODY BLADES).

 

PCMforless tuned the current combo on my 96 z28 it stalls when I shift it into gear and then it seems to crank over too much to start-up so I called them and some one over there told me to drill a hole into the throttle blade. Bryan told me this in a email.... ..
to check out the tps and make sure it was .67 volt dc and it was so.......he also told me this......"you need to do is open the throttle blades using the throttle body set screw to allow the engine enough air to maintain the idle properly".
THanks,
Bryan

The T/A is getting a full on paint and body work this fall

 

Can I just resize the IAC hole?

 

PCMforless missed tuned it is getting corrected by them

 

Does the car have a stall converter?

 

yes it does have a stall

 

Mine is doing the exact same thing I need but I was told from my mechanic that is Stalling because of a locked torque converter

 

Drilling holes in the throttle blades is a thing of the past, If tuned correctly you do not have to do that especially with that small of a cam...

 

anybody telling you to drill a hole in the throttle blades or telling you to open the throttle blades is just ignorant at best.

These two pages are not great but they give you some idea of what to do. http://www.hashmarks.com/techtips/throttle_body_mod.htm
http://para.noid.org/~lj/PCM%20Tutor...litBLMinfo.htm

The stock TB has a bleed hole and the size of that hole is important enough that the L99 and LT1 got different sizes and the L99 used the same cam as the b-body LT1. You have increased displacement and cam size a LOT and you likely have an aftermarket TB that has no bleed hole atall and likely no longer seals the IAC circuit to the manifold and just dumps in the plenum. But even if you have a stock TB that hole would need to be enlarged for your application.

This is really basic stuff that a few of us have been posting info on for YEARS, the best link there was on it was.
http://members.***.net/gmarengo/Misc/Misc.htm
If someone could find it archived somewhere that would be very good for the community, it went more indepth into the hows and whys of the things the other two links touched on.

 

Thanks for the info I'll keep it in a file for future reference ..I'll keep you posted it is getting retuned and should be back in the car by this Monday...and I agree I really didn't want to drill holes in the throttle blades if this next tune doesn't work out I'm goining to go some were else maybe local and get it dyno tuned and do the mods

As far as the OP says about the converter I don't think we have the same problem.

 

I got my ecm reflashed finally runs enough to get some test drive time it was still stalling out and the problem,still existed turns out the NEW FFFNNNN OPTI I bought is F#*$nnn!! junk don't buy this crap! I like to buy different parts to try out but this time it bit me in the ***..... strait out of the box it caused problems and I assumed it was the tune that was double checked and adjusted here's the link on that opti I bought from on ebay...http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-DRAGON-F...d12907&vxp=mtr

 

Luckiely you have 60day return policy.
Ive been fortunate with chandlers opti, 5000 miles no problem, for weekend warrior.
I did do Locktite the rotor screws and siliconed outside case.
As with chandlers, some like them, some dont, my experence to date been good with no issues.

http://stores.ebay.com/Chandler-Moto...=p4634.c0.m322

 

I was happy with my chandler unit for the 4 months I had it, then I went with a Delco unit.

 

Mail order tuning! Can't check the car from a million miles away to adjust the mehanicals


BTW the only time I have ever had to drill holes in a LTx TB was back when I had a blower a nasty cam and no way to tune it

 

I had a pcmforless tune and the car almost stalled when going into gear when it was warm. If I was going from reverse to drive to manuver into the garage when it was hot it wanted to die out. had to keep one foot on the brake and one on the gas. I ended up ordering a aldl cable and downloaded tunerprort and winflash. Once I was able to look at it I noticed my idle was set to 800 or 850 when hot. I bumped it up to 950 when hot and my issues went away.

Sounds like yours was infact opti related. I just wanted to throw out that my pcmforless tune cam with the idle set to low for my particular cam. It sounded mean as hell, but it didnt like going into drive/reverse when hot.

 

These lt1's should of came with a OPTI failure dip-**** light in the dash at least some warning.