Ive got edelbrock performer heads basically free on trade. they have same valves as stock just bigger ports. this is not an edelbrock hate thread so take it somewhere else. i dont care how much your ported stock heads are better, now for my question, i need cam recomendations for stock bottom end intake and throttlebody with these heads, and what ratio of roller rockers would best suit the setup? I will also be running headers, probably cheapo summit brand longtubes. im not one to buy the best to achieve the best, i get what i can and in the end it will be better than what i got now. 100% stock from throttlebody to manifolds. any advice will be appreciated. this car is a daily driver it is a six speed with 3.23s...yea, 3.23s i like the fact tha i can still eat a cobra on takeoff, and outrun an ls1 vette at 140 mph in 6th at 3000 rpms, just sippin gas. 1400 rpms at 65 mph and i can hit 95 coming out of third. thanks again.btw handporting my intake to the heads and headers is an option. just want to use these heads but wanna swap cams while im in there. double roller timing chain a must?

 

Cocaine is a hell of a drug.

 

Lmao, u said it best brother.

 

lmao!

 

Lmfao.

 

Was there a question in there???

 

I think he was asking what cam and rockers would suit his combination the best. I'd say Proform 1.6's and a used CC503.

 

1.6 full roller and CC503
great power throughout the range!

 

He wants advise on something to try and do right when he insists on doing everything else wrong. Lost cause, let him pursue his failures awhile and maybe he will come back and be interested in doing it right.

 

if you can do this^, then why make any adjustments???

 

I think the CC503 is a great cam for a street light strip motor. Proform rockers would keep the cost down. I don't know how well they are made but rockers and a used cam could be less than 300 bones.

 

SO Very rare that you and I agree SOOO Completely

 

I really like the fact you guys are working with me based on the fact that im a cheapskate. f*ck yea i wat a used cam, unless its got 200k miles, i bet it will preform like new! my cousin used to race dirttrack and he had a junkyard 350 with handported heads and rollerrockers and straight owned and all these uptight overpaid ********* with $12000 motors were getting pissed, and even more so when they demanded he tear his motor down on the spot to find out it was a stock bore stock cam with heads that looked like they were ported with a chainsaw and a bad *** carb. let me be the first one to tell you (guy with the 11 second caprice) that it dont take loads of cash on name brand bullshit to make a fast powerfull car. you say i insist on doing things the wrong way when in all reality im just wanting to add alittle bit more to what i got. What exactly am i doing wrong? Not running a ported throttlebody? Not spending the money on better internals? Dude this is not and never will be a racecar, it wont be a trailerwhore. ever. i drive it to work, to the store, 500 miles to look at an ls1 ss a kid wanted to trade me that turned out to be a katrina flood car and was rusted to the ground. its simple. i got edelbrock performer heads for basically $65, and i just wondered what cam and rollers would best suit my stock 48 mm t.b. and stock intake. i plan on gasket matching it all the way through, i plan on polishing the ports, but im not messing with valve size or bowls, or port size. i dont need to, my car is an f body, not a fat *** 4 door, if i wanted an 11 second car, id gear for it. its not that i need more power, im just addicted to it. and why not optimize to my $65 heads that cost, what...$700 a piece new. unassembled. dont hate.

Btw thanks to the guys that were helpfull and real and know what its like to wanna wrench based on the fact you can only afford to put $100 a month tops into your dd. and on that note, anyone have any of the above mentioned cams for sale used. theres one thing we can all agree on. tuning is key, i just dont know what cam to use or what rocker ratio, i just want a lope and a top end that looks good and sounds like a sewing machine cuz where i come from were all broke as f*ck and sad to say my all stock 97 remains untouched by all the other broke ***** with crap GTs and 80s camaros.

 

Lol...

 

I jst wanna take back the **** i taked about the fat *** 4 door, anyone who can haul two plus tons a qurter mile in 11 seconds is pretty bad ***, just dont gate on me because i can only afford to do minimal half *** work, it will be fine, ive got little money invested, if it blows, ill sell it as a roller for more than i paid for it and set the t56 on the shelf beside my other one and start over. had a six speed ws6, bought it for $2500 didnt run, bad opti. ran the absolute **** out of it, blew it up, pulled motor and tranny and craigslisted the remains for $2500, keeping the t56, umi panhard control arms and subframe connectors, bbk 52 mm t.b., headers,y pipe and 3" borla. sold bbk and borla together for $700 and bought tjis flawless z28 for 3k and according the the local dealers is worth upwards to 6k in its condition and milage. when ur broke like me, you have fun and hustle.

My phones keyboard is small. fat fingers. good for the ******, bad for the text. my bad on spelling guys

 

 

Lmao i was waiting on someone to crack on my accidental miss-spell. and for some reason i knew it would be that exact word. well done sir.

 

I agree that you don't need a lot of high dollar stuff to go fast. I have been the guy to show up to an event with a junkyard shortblock under it's own power and beaten $10K dollar engines in cars that showed up on trailers..

I use a few very good critical pieces and then skip lots of things other people tend to think are important like dyno tuning, skinnies, fancy ignition, lighter or relocated battery, "drag" shocks, double roller timing chain etc.. I don't use any of that.

The guys suggesting the 503 cam are neglecting to consider the 3.23s. With the T56 you need more gear unless you want to never use 6th unless cruising over 80mph. The double overdrive means that 4.10 gears are perfectly fine on the street. This has been covered over and over with ignorant newb being sure that deep gears are terrible but once you do the math on the .50 OD 4.10s are perfectly reasonable and serve to make 6th gear more usable. They are a little weaker in the 10-bolt so there is some small reason to consider say 3.73s. Top speed with a stock geared rear and t56 is generally attained in 5th, 6th pulls the engine down too low in the powerband.

 

Yea i had 4.10s in the car when i got it, at 60 mph i was taching 2000rpms, with 3.23s at 60 im tachin 1400 rpms, and it holds speed up hill. what do you think would be a better cam choice for t56 and 3.23?

 

damn... cant read all the clutter! hurts my eyes lol

try paragraphs with spaces in between them between points you want to make.