is this forged/cast/ or just junk
is this forged/cast/ or just junk Alright guys I had this motor built about 4 years ago and I has sat in the corner ever since while the car rotted. I got a wild hair yesterday and started to dig up parts and find keys to the car. I looked over the engine again and started wondering if my crank was cast or forged. Google search said look for the parting line or whack it with a hammer but it in the motor and I cannot. I also cannot find the parting line so I'm looking for you guys help. I could pull the front cap to see the part number but I don't really want to. The eagle symbol and the part of the number I can see appear to be etched in not raised like it was part of a cast. Anyway on with pictures...
Last edited by 05_quick4door; Sep 3, 2012 at 09:43 AM.
Forged, no casting line, Its not going to hurt anything to pull the cap and check the part number and retourqe the cap. Looks like a pretty good build, with the splayed caps and studs.
So I pulled the cap and I don't see the 4330 marking
Where is it usually at?
What I see is " 383 CLi" and "S-05-03-010"
Looks like my nice build I thought I was putting together is nothing more than a paper weight
Where is it usually at?
What I see is " 383 CLi" and "S-05-03-010"
Looks like my nice build I thought I was putting together is nothing more than a paper weight
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I didn't see this photo the first time I posted. If you notice the line that runs vertically in the photo on the crank, that is a casting line. The rest of the parting lines look to have been removed. But on the up side, I have seen those same lines on a forged crank. I would call eagle with the numbers off the front counterweight and see what they can tell you. To me it looks like a part number and date. Checking with Eagle will tell you and put your mind at rest.
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Maybe it is but I don't know. Would save me a lot of headache if it was. And a trip to the machine ship
I will call eagle in the morning and see what they say.
If it is cast: where are you guys running into issues with the cast cranks?
I will call eagle in the morning and see what they say.
If it is cast: where are you guys running into issues with the cast cranks?
The issue has been when the engine makes over 500 crank hp, they split usually after the #1 main journal. If it turns out to be Cast, your best bet is going to be get a Forged and have it balanced. Then just make sure the journals are the same, and you might get lucky enough to not have to worry about bearings. G/L!!
Sad face 500 crank that's it?
My little 5 banger in my Colorado made close if not more than 600 crank on the factory bottom end before it scattered.
What do you guys usually get out of these motors? Its a 383/ flat tops with 5cc relief/le2 heads/le4 cam/12:1 compression.
Sorry if I sound like a newb with this but I have not looked at this thing in 4 years. Just putting turbos and bottles on newer factory motors.
My little 5 banger in my Colorado made close if not more than 600 crank on the factory bottom end before it scattered.
What do you guys usually get out of these motors? Its a 383/ flat tops with 5cc relief/le2 heads/le4 cam/12:1 compression.
Sorry if I sound like a newb with this but I have not looked at this thing in 4 years. Just putting turbos and bottles on newer factory motors.
Sad face 500 crank that's it?
My little 5 banger in my Colorado made close if not more than 600 crank on the factory bottom end before it scattered.
What do you guys usually get out of these motors? Its a 383/ flat tops with 5cc relief/le2 heads/le4 cam/12:1 compression.
Sorry if I sound like a newb with this but I have not looked at this thing in 4 years. Just putting turbos and bottles on newer factory motors.
My little 5 banger in my Colorado made close if not more than 600 crank on the factory bottom end before it scattered.
What do you guys usually get out of these motors? Its a 383/ flat tops with 5cc relief/le2 heads/le4 cam/12:1 compression.
Sorry if I sound like a newb with this but I have not looked at this thing in 4 years. Just putting turbos and bottles on newer factory motors.
Definitely call and verify what you have. If its forged then give it hell, I have never seen a forged crank break that wasn't user error and Eagle forged cranks have been 1600hp in smallblocks. If its cast, sell it and spend the extra coin now on a forged setup to save a lot of potential headaches in the future.
A new crank now is a lot cheaper then a new engine 6 months from now.
I think this is hilarious that Eagle is either too blind and stupid to know that their cast cranks are junk, or they just dont care as long as they keep selling. Did the guy apologize to you for selling you a crank made of glass? Did you ask him if he would give you a discount on a new one since the one he sold you last time is doomed to fail? Did you tell him how horrible their cast cranks reputations are in the LT1 world? He should buy it back considering it has never been in a running engine.
I think this is hilarious that Eagle is either too blind and stupid to know that their cast cranks are junk, or they just dont care as long as they keep selling. Did the guy apologize to you for selling you a crank made of glass? Did you ask him if he would give you a discount on a new one since the one he sold you last time is doomed to fail? Did you tell him how horrible their cast cranks reputations are in the LT1 world? He should buy it back considering it has never been in a running engine.
lol ya i dont think they would go or that. my wife asked me if i could sell the cast crank to help recoupe some of the cost. she gave me a blank stare when i told here i could get more money scrapping the mallory balance material lol
so here is what im looking at. what do you guys think?
eagle part number : 435337505700
If its already a 383 he shouldn't have to do anything but clearencr the block for the longer throw. The 396 and 383 both use a .030 overbore. I say spend the $750 and get a few more cubes since you'd be spending it anyway. Just make sure the vital clearence issues are taken care of and you'll have fun!